Melt and Pour (MP) Soap Base is a man-made, commercially produced, water-soluble compound formulated for the purpose of cleansing the body. It comes in varying shades, depending on the formula and additives used. You can typically find white bases, c

<p>Melt and Pour (MP) Soap Base is a man-made, commercially produced, water-soluble compound formulated for the purpose of cleansing the body. It comes in varying shades, depending on the formula and additives used. You can typically find white bases, clear bases, green tinted bases and yellow tinted bases.<br><br><img alt="1332-Introduction-2_t" class="hs-image-align-left" src="https://8800969.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/8800969/1332-Introduction-2_t.jpg" style="width: 200px;" width="200">Natural vegetable oils are saponified and used as a base for the MP Soap. Unlike traditional soap making, the saponification process is complete and no curing time is necessary. <strong><em>Working with MP Soap Base is great for those that don&#x2019;t want to handle sodium hydroxide (lye). &#xA0;</em></strong><br>When the soap is commercially produced, additives are incorporated into the formula to improve the base&#x2019;s clarity, lather and craftability. MP Soap Base is a unique soap because it is specifically formulated to be heated, melted and solidified without changing the original qualities of the base.</p>
<p>Natural vegetable oils have different fatty acid chain lengths and each different chain length contributes to different characteristics of the soap. Shorter fatty acid chain lengths are more water-soluble and produce large bubbles, quick lather, and a softer bar of soap. Longer fatty acid chain lengths are less water-soluble and produce smaller tight bubbles and a harder bar of soap. Different manufacturers use different fatty acids in their individual MP Soap Base formulas. The following are the most common fatty acids used, including chain length:<br><br>Lauric Acid: C-12<br>Myristic Acid: C-14<br>Palmitic Acid: C-16<br>Stearic Acid: C-18</p>
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<div><strong>The pH of MP Soap Base</strong><br><br>PH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. Since MP Soap Base formulas can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, so can the pH. The typical pH range of MP Soap Bases is 8 to 9. You need this higher pH to attract dirt, cleanse the skin, and rinse away the soap. Soap with a low pH can be soft and leave bathtub rings. Soap with a high pH can cause skin irritation. If you are ever curious about the exact pH of your soap, you can test the pH of your soap with strips and solutions found at many local pool stores.<br><br><strong>Best Used and Expiration Dates</strong><br><br>MP Soap does not have an expiration date because it will not go rancid. The high percentage of propylene glycol required to produce this type of base acts as a natural preservative. Most MP Soap Bases have a &#x201C;Best Used&#x201D; date. The Best Used date is important because MP Soap Base can lose water and dehydrate over time.<br><br>If you find yourself with dehydrated MP Soap Base you can try adding in liquid glycerin (at 5-10%) to make it usable.&#xA0;<br><br></div>
<div><strong>Melt Point</strong><br><br>Different manufacturers have different formulas and thus different melt points to their MP Soap Base formulas. The typical melt point for most MP Soap Bases on the market is 115&#xBA;-125&#xBA;F.<br><br>To raise the melt point of your soap, you can add 3% palm stearic acid to the soap base. This will make the soap harder. Making this addition will likely cloud your base and decrease your lather, but is helpful when a higher melt point base is required. To add stearic acid, melt the stearic acid until liquid, which is approximately 160&#xBA;F. Melt the soap base to 150&#xBA;F. Blend the two together.</div>
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<p>Note: Adding extra ingredients can reduce the lather of the final product, so keep this in mind when you are formulating.</p>
</div>
<div><br>If is very important to know the melt point of your MP Soap Base.
<ul>
<li>Heating the base more than 30&#xBA;F above melt point may cause the soap to dehydrate and become prone to bloom.</li>
<li>Heating the base more than 50&#xBA;F above melt point may cause the soap to become brittle, reduce lather, and turn yellow.</li>
<li>Prolonged overheating of soap base will turn the base amber and produce a foul odor that may be difficult to mask with fragrance or essential oils.</li>
<li>Selling soap at a hot&#xA0;outdoor show or displaying soap in a warm store window could result in the soap softening or melting.</li>
<li>When mixing or combining different bases the overall melt point will change to the average of the bases mixed.</li>
</ul>
</div>
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Melt and Pour Soap Basics Part 1

Pour Temp, Small and Big Batches, Storage

<p><strong>Pour Temperature<br><br></strong>The majority of bases on the market have a recommended pouring temperature of <strong>140&#xBA;-145&#xBA;F.</strong> This temperature may be only several degrees lower than maximum temperatures that promote dehydration. Thus it is necessary to closely control the pouring temperature.<br><br>When pouring soap over&#xA0;embeds or when pouring soap in layers, it is important to adjust the pour temperature of the second pour of soap. If you do not adjust your pour temperature, the<img alt="Molds" class="hs-image-align-right" src="https://8800969.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/8800969/Molds.png" style="width: 244px;" width="244"> second pour of soap will melt the first pour of soap. To adjust the pour temperature, simply allow the soap to cool before you pour it. While cooling, if the soap forms a skin or thick layer of soap, simply mix it and it will melt with the soap below it. To prevent the first pour of soap from melting, the second pour of soap should be <strong>125&#xBA;-130&#xBA;F.</strong></p>
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<div><strong>Melting Your MP Soap Base - Small Batches</strong><br><br>A double boiler is the preferred method for heating and melting small batches of MP Soap Base. A double boiler prevents overheating, hot spots and water evaporation of the soap. Although heating MP Soap Base with a microwave can be popular, there are three reasons to avoid this.&#xA0;
<ul>
<li>There is little control for even heating creating hot spots.</li>
<li>It is likely the outer soap will boil before the inner soap has melted.</li>
<li>Water loss will cause disruption of the base formula and could result in MP Soap bloom and sweating.</li>
</ul>
Prolonged overheating can cause an amber discoloration. Although this discoloration does not affect the safety of the soap, it is not aesthetically pleasing. Once clear soap turns amber, it is not possible to return it to a clear color. You can add titanium dioxide to the soap to produce an opaque ivory soap that is safe for use.</div>
<div><strong><br>Melting Your MP Soap Base - Big Batches</strong><br><br>The preferred method for melting large batches of MP Soap Base is a water jacket melter with a digital thermostat. A water jacket is important because direct exposure to heating elements can cause the soap to turn amber. When using a water jacket melter, the thermostat should not be set higher than 130&#xBA;F. Soap should not be allowed to remain in the melter for more than 12 hours because prolonged overheating at high temperatures will cause the soap to turn amber.</div>
<div><strong><br>Considerations for Re-Melting MP Soap Base</strong><br><br>You can reheat MP Soap up to two times max. If soap is reheated, add 1/2 tablespoon of distilled water per pound of MP Soap Base each time the soap is reheated. Soap should not be reheated more than twice because incorporating additional water may lead to clouding of clear base, difficulties un-molding, and MP Soap bloom.</div>
<div><strong><br>Storing Your MP Soap Base</strong><br><br>MP Soap Base should be stored in a cool and dry area away from direct sunlight and moisture. MP Soap Base can be stored in the original packaging or if opened, plastic airtight storage containers can be used (such as plastic shoe boxes). You can also seal your soap base in plastic storage bags. Always keep your base sealed up and airtight.&#xA0;&#xA0;</div>
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Melt and Pour Soap Basics Part 2

General Questions Are the Melt and Pour Bases Vegan? The following bases are not considered Vegan: honey, tussah silk, goat milk, premium shave and shampoo and baby buttermilk Can I melt my MP Soap Base on a stove top?The best way to melt your melt a

<h3 id="general-questions"><strong>General Questions<br><br></strong></h3>
<div><strong>Are the Melt and Pour Bases Vegan?</strong></div>
<div>The following bases are not considered Vegan: <em>honey, tussah silk, goat milk, premium shave and shampoo and baby buttermilk</em></div>
<div><strong>Can I melt my MP Soap Base on a stove top?</strong><br>The best way to melt your melt and pour soap is with a double boiler.&#xA0;<br><br>Melting soap on direct heat will likely cause the soap to burn.&#xA0;<br><br>If you do not have a double boiler, you can use a microwave and a microwave safe glass container. If you chose this method, stir every 30 seconds. Do not allow your soap to boil.<br><br><strong>Can I put my MP Soap Base in the freezer?</strong><br>Yes, you can put it in the freezer for 15-30 minutes. If you completely freeze your soap, you will risk it sweating when it returns to room air. Try to avoid the freezer fan (this causes sweating also). Some soaps with high water content (NOT Crafter&#x2019;s Choice MP Soaps) will stay cloudy after being in the freezer.<br><br><strong>Can I use a crock pot to melt my MP Soap Base?</strong><br>A crock pot will not work...you will likely burn the soap. A roasting pan will work as long as it has a temperature dial that will go as low as 110&#xBA;-120&#xBA; F.<br><br><strong>I do not like the way my mp soap turned out...help!</strong><br>That is okay...you can remelt it!<br><br><strong>Is there a natural smell to MP Soap Base?</strong><br>MP Soap Base should have a slightly sweet smell and frankly, smell like soap. It should not smell rancid or foul.<br><br><strong>Is there an easy way to cut up a block of MP Soap Base?</strong><br>Try a bread dough scraper. You can cut slices and chunks from the block. It is not sharp so you should not cut yourself. Note: Do not use a knife or sharp instrument. Your hands will get slippery from the soap. One slip and you could cut yourself.<br><br><strong>My block of Clear MP Soap Base looks cloudy. Is this normal or did I get a bad batch?</strong><br>This is normal due to the size and thickness of the block. Once you slice off some soap, you will see the true color and clarity.<br><br><strong>My bar of MP Soap has white crystals on it...Help! Is this mold?</strong><br>Unless you added an additive that can mold, it is unlikely these crystals are mold.&#xA0;<br><br>The crystals form when your soap dehydrates and dries out. It is most commonly seen during the humid months when the soap sweats and then dehydrates quickly. It will happen if you accidentally boil the soap in the microwave while heating. The best way to prevent this is to wrap the soap as soon as you un-mold it.<br><br><strong>My MP Soap has bubbles on the bottom...help!</strong><br>After you pour the soap, immediately spritz the surface with fine mist of rubbing alcohol. This immediately pops the bubbles. Your soap will not smell like alcohol...the smell quickly disappears.</div>
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<div><strong>My MP Soap turned brown after two weeks. Why?</strong><br>You most likely used a fragrance that contains vanilla. I recommend using the Crafter&#x2019;s Choice Vanilla Color Stabilizer, which will stop the process of vanilla browning in soap.&#xA0;<br><br>Some floral and spice type ingredients will turn yellow, orange or brown. There is no product to stop this process. Instead try to work the color change into your design.<br><br></div>
<div><strong>What does MP Soap Base mean?</strong><br>MP Soap Base stands for Melt and Pour Soap Base. This is a special type of soap that has been designed to be melted, crafted and formulated to accept water based additives. When it re-hardens it is ready to use.&#xA0;<br><br>Some MP Soap Base formulas are all natural and meets the FDA and public definition of soap.&#xA0;<br><br>Some MP Soap Base formulas have additives that enhance the clarity and performance of the soap. The general public considers this product to be soap but the FDA defines this soap as a cosmetic. Both are safe and are popular for different reasons.<br><br><strong>What is Glycerin MP Soap Base?</strong><br>Glycerin Melt and Pour Soap Base a type of Melt and Pour Soap Base. Glycerin is in the soap base either because it is a natural byproduct of the soap making process or it has been incorporated as an additive.<br><br><strong>What is the best method for melting soap?</strong><br>The microwave is the easies, but some may prefer using a double boiler.<br><br><strong>Why is my soap sweating?</strong><br>The official word for this sweating is &quot;Glycerin Dew&quot;. Most MP Soap Bases contain glycerin. Glycerin is a humectant which means that it will naturally attract moisture in the air to itself. Humid climates experience the issue the most. Overheating soap in the microwave is the number one cause of glycerin dew because it disrupts the water balance in the soap. Adding too much fragrance or additional oils can be another reason.</div>
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<div>
<h3 id="package-and-labeling">Package and Labeling</h3>
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<div><strong>I am wrapping a bar of MP Soap. Can I leave the ends of my wrap open to air?</strong><br>No, all mp soap needs to be fully wrapped in plastic wrap, shrink wrap or a cello bag. If you do not wrap your soap in an air tight wrap, it will likely develop glycerin dew.<br><br><strong>I am wrapping a bar of MP Soap. Can I use saran wrap to package my mp soap?</strong><br>Yes, we have found that the cheapest wrap works best because it stretches a bit more than the expensive wraps. This stretch will give you a tighter and smoother fit.<br><br><strong>I am wrapping a bar of MP Soap. Can I use shrink wrap to package my mp soap?</strong><br>Yes. You will want to make sure that you do not keep the heat source in one place for long periods of time. We find that waiving the source back and fourth prevents soap melting.<br><br><strong>Can I use your soap boxes to package my MP Soap?</strong><br>Yes, this provides a beautiful package. You will want to first wrap the soap in plastic wrap or shrink wrap.<br><br><strong>Do I need to label my MP Soap?</strong><br>Some soap must be labeled according to the FDA Cosmetic Regulations and others meet the exemption and fall under the Consumer Product Safety Commissions rules. I highly recommend labeling all soap according to the very clear and easy to follow FDA guidelines.<br><br><strong>What is a trademark?</strong><br>A trademark can protect words, names, symbols, or colors that distinguish goods and services from those manufactured or sold by others. Trademarks are granted and managed by the federal government. When an applicant applies for a trademark, they must specify a classification category or categories. For example, a fragrance name can be trademarked for a finished candle, lotion, soap, etc. When buying a &quot;type&quot; or &quot;compared to&quot; fragrance oil you are taking the responsibility to know if your final product will infringe on a trademark. You can search active trademarks by going to www.uspto.gov.</div>
</div>

Melt & Pour Soapmaking – FAQs: General Questions & Packaging

Challenge: Uneven Layered LinesUneven lines can happen for two reasons. First the second layer may be too hot when poured over the first layer causing your pristine line to break. Secondly, if the first layer has not set, the clean lines of your soap

<p><strong>Challenge: Uneven Layered Lines</strong><br>Uneven lines can happen for two reasons. First the second layer may be too hot when poured over the first layer causing your pristine line to break. Secondly, if the first layer has not set, the clean lines of your soap bar may be punctured by the second layer when poured. To prevent this make sure that your second layer is poured at a temperature less than 130&#xB0;F and be PATIENT with your first layer and allow it to cool.<img alt="1357-Crafting-MP-Soap-Base" class="hs-image-align-right" src="https://8800969.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/8800969/1357-Crafting-MP-Soap-Base.jpg" style="width: 281px;" width="281"><br>&#xA0;<br><strong>Challenge: Migrating Color Layers</strong><br>Dyes are very popular in melt and pour soap making them look like stained glass in clear soap.&#xA0; They are also the most challenging because they are water based causing layers to migrate. Another trouble colorant are lake dyes when a layer is over colored it will cause bleeding. We typically recommend using mica or pigment colors.<br>&#xA0;<br><strong>Challenge: Layers that Slide Apart</strong><br>Your layers may be perfect but as soon as you unmold your single bar it becomes two. When creating layered soaps, rubbing alcohol allows the layers to adhere to each other. If you forget, don&#x2019;t fret, your soap can be melted back down and remolded but the next time you layer, don&#x2019;t forget the 90% rubbing alcohol in between the layers!<br>&#xA0;<br><strong>Challenge: Surrounding Layers</strong><br>When your first layer of soap sits in the mold too long it will shrink. This gap is then filled when the second layer of soap is poured, causing color to surround the bottom layers of soap. Another cause of surrounding layers could be unmolding your first layer before pouring the second layer. The best practice is to set aside enough time to complete your finished product within a day or two. To speed up setting time you can also set your mold in the freezer for 15 minute bursts.</p>
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<p><strong>Making the Perfect Layers</strong><br>&#xA0;We recommend following these steps to make the perfect layered soap.</p>
<ol>
<li>Select a non-migrating color.&#xA0;Examples are neon colors, mica or pigments.</li>
<li>The first layer can be poured at any temperature. Allow the layer to form a thick skin before pouring the second layer. Spritz the top with 90% Rubbing Alcohol to pop any bubbles.</li>
<li>Melt the soap that will become second layer and allow the soap to reach between 125-130&#xB0;F. Before pouring the second layer spritz the top of the first layer with alcohol to allow for adherence.</li>
<li>Pour the second layer SLOWLY and then spritz with alcohol again to pop any bubbles that may arise. Another tip is to pour it over the back of a spoon, it helps distribute the soap evenly.</li>
<li>Allow your second layer to harden completely and then package your finished product.&#xA0;<br><br></li>
</ol>
<p><strong>Goal: Beautiful Clean Layers</strong><br>Soap with different colors or fragrances can be combined into one bar. It is not only unique but visually appealing with the added dimension to your final product. Creating layers can be tricky but they&#x2019;re not impossible, read more to pick up tips and tricks to create flawless layers.</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Layer Tutorial with Pictures</span>: <a href="https://library.rusticescentuals.com/learning-to-layer-melt-pour-soap/" rel="noopener" target="_blank">https://library.rusticescentuals.com/learning-to-layer-melt-pour-soap/</a></p>
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<div class="hs-embed-wrapper" data-responsive="true" data-service="vimeo" style="position: relative; overflow: hidden; width: 100%; height: auto; padding: 0; max-width: 640px; max-height: 360px; min-width: 256px; display: block; margin: auto;"><div class="hs-embed-content-wrapper"><div style="position: relative; overflow: hidden; max-width: 100%; padding-bottom: 56.25%; margin: 0px;"><iframe allowfullscreen frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/115981849?h=3063996341" style="position: absolute; top: 0px; left: 0px; width: 100%; height: 100%; border: none;" title="vimeo-player" width="640"></iframe></div></div></div>
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<div class="hs-callout-type-tip" data-hs-callout-type="tip">
<p><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Additional Tips</span><br>~If you are creating multiple bars of layered soap at a time or if you need your workspace for something else it is always a good practice to place your mold on a cookie sheet for easy transportation. Moving a mold on its own, especially a silicone mold, could cause a ripple on the top of your layers.<br>&#xA0;<br>~When pouring layers it is always a good practice to pour in swirls rather than dumping the soap base in one area. This eliminates any potential breakage between layers</strong></p>
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Troubleshooting & Tutorial: Creating Layers in Melt & Pour Soap

Swirled soap is not just for cold process soap makers. In the video below, we show one method for swirling melt and pour soap.

<div class="hs-embed-wrapper" data-responsive="true" data-service="vimeo" style="position: relative; overflow: hidden; width: 100%; height: auto; padding: 0; max-width: 640px; max-height: 360px; min-width: 256px; display: block; margin: auto;"><div class="hs-embed-content-wrapper"><div style="position: relative; overflow: hidden; max-width: 100%; padding-bottom: 56.25%; margin: 0px;"><iframe allowfullscreen frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/171413974?h=3b25031483" style="position: absolute; top: 0px; left: 0px; width: 100%; height: 100%; border: none;" title="vimeo-player" width="640"></iframe></div></div></div>
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<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Helpful tips and Tricks:</strong></span></p>
<p><strong>Make Dividers: </strong>A key to swirling melt and pour soap is to keep your colors separate until they are just the right temperature to swirl. Dividers in your mold drastically help with this! Use a stiff wax covered paper to create the dividers, here we used a file folder. They should fit snugly lengthwise in your loaf mold and at least two inches taller than the mold. The height allows for easy removal later.<br><br><strong>Choose Your Colors Wisely:</strong>&#xA0;At least one contrasting color is important to achieve a vivid melt and pour swirl. We find that using two vibrant colors in clear soap base and the third color as white soap base consistently produces stunning swirled designs. Separate and color your soap into three different containers with your fragrance of choice.<br><br><strong>Juggling Soap Temperatures:&#xA0;</strong>The best swirled designs happen when all three soap bases are roughly the same temperature when pouring. This becomes increasingly difficult if you only have one microwave! Melt each soap being extra careful not to overheat any of the colors. We recommend getting the soaps to 140&#xBA;F each. If you have the ability, 3 separate double boilers can help achieve a consistent temperature for the soap bases.&#xA0;<br><br><strong>Putting It All Together:&#xA0;</strong>While holding the dividers in place, pour the most contrasting soap color into the middle section at a temperature of 125&#xBA;F to 130&#xBA;F. Only pour 1/4&#x201D; to 1/2&#x201D; high. Move to the sides by filling each side section with a different soap color matching the level you poured in the middle. Continue filling in this manner until you have reached the top. Carefully remove the dividers. Use a skewer to zig-zag your way through the loaf from end to end. When you reach the end move the skewer along the edges of the mold and remove the skewer and any clumps that may have accumulated on the skewer. Allow to harden, then un-mold and slice as usual.</p>
<p><img alt="2133-Melt-and-pour-soap-swirl-ARTICLE_t" class="hs-image-align-center" src="https://8800969.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/8800969/2133-Melt-and-pour-soap-swirl-ARTICLE_t.png" style="width: 329px;" width="329"></p>
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Tutorial: Swirling Melt & Pour Soap

This article will explain the simple process of working with embeds. Embeds, which can include soap, luffas, or toys, are a great way to make interesting design effects in your melt and pour soaps.

<div><img alt="summer-celebration-soap-recipe-feature1" class="hs-image-align-left" src="https://8800969.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/8800969/summer-celebration-soap-recipe-feature1.jpg" style="width: 358px;" width="358"></div>
<div><em>To embed shredded soap, curled soap, pre-formed soap embeds, and soap chunks into a new soap, simply spray generously with rubbing alcohol, place in mold and pour soap over the embeds. Be sure that the melted soap is close to, 125&#xB0; -130&#xB0;&#xA0;F.&#xA0;</em></div>
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<div><br><br><strong>Shredded Soap:</strong> Soap can be shredded using a cheese grater to create shredded coconut-like confetti embeds.<br><br><strong>Curled Soap:</strong> You can use a potato peeler to make soap curls, which can be embedded into a new soap. &#xA0;<br><br><strong>Pre-formed Soap Embeds:&#xA0;</strong>There are many types of embed molds on the market. Some are sphere shaped, such as this&#xA0;<a href="https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/products/round-ball-0.875-silicone-soap-mold.aspx">round ball mold</a>, and some create&#xA0;<a href="https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/soap-making-supplies/soap-molds/crafters-choice-column-mini-molds.aspx">long soap columns</a>&#xA0;that can be embedded into a loaf.&#xA0;<br>Example:&#xA0;<br><br><strong>Soap Chunks:&#xA0;</strong>You can also chop up soap into chunks, which can be embedded into a new soap. &#xA0;</div>
<div><strong>Luffa Embeds: </strong><em>To embed luffa into soap, you can place a piece of luffa into each cavity and pour the soap over the luffa.</em><br><br>Luffa looks amazing embedded into soap. Once the gourds have matured, they are picked and allowed to dehydrate for over 6 months. The remaining insides of the gourd plant are cleaned and sold to the cosmetic industry as luffa. Luffa is considered an all-natural exfoliant.<br><br></div>
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<div><strong>Toy Embeds: </strong><em>To embed toys into soap, place the toy in the mold and pour soap over it or place the toy on top of hardened soap and pour soap around it.</em><br><br>You can embed toys into an&#xA0;<a href="https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/soap-making-supplies/melt-pour-soap-base.aspx">MP Soap Base</a>&#xA0;to create fun soap for kids. Toys range from ducks to fish and snakes to monsters,&#xA0;<a href="https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/soap-making-supplies/tools/embed-paper-sprinkles-toys.aspx">Click Here</a> for toy embeds.&#xA0;<br>&#xA0;</div>
<h4 id="some-considerations-when-adding-embeds">Some Considerations When Adding Embeds</h4>
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<div><br><strong>Temperature</strong><br>The pour temperature of the soap that you are pouring over soap embeds is very important. Keep the temperature at about 125&#xB0;-130&#xB0;F to avoid the soap embeds from melting.<br><br><strong>Spray with Rubbing Alcohol</strong><br>In order for the soap embeds to adhere in the soap base, you must first spray them with rubbing alcohol. If you don&#x2019;t, they can fall out as the soap is being used.<br><br></div>
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<h4 id="an-example-of-the-process">An Example of the Process</h4>
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<div><br>To walk you through the basic process, we are going to use 44 oz. of MP Soap Base and embed a star column into a <a href="https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/products/regular-loaf-silicone-mold.aspx">Regular Loaf Silicone Mold</a>. This design also uses layering techniques.&#xA0;<a href="https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/education/how-to-make/Melt-and-Pour-Design-Techniques-Layering.aspx">Click Here</a>&#xA0;to learn about layering soap.<br><br><strong>Step 1:</strong>&#xA0;First we will need to make our star shaped embed. To do this, pour 7.4 oz. of MP Soap Base with color and fragrance into the&#xA0;<a href="https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/products/star-1-inch-column-silicone-soap-mold.aspx">Star Column Silicone Mold</a>.<br><br><strong>Step 2:</strong>&#xA0;Allow the star column to harden and remove from the mold.<br><br><strong>Step 3:</strong>&#xA0;Melt 9 oz. of MP Soap Base. Allow to cool to 140&#xB0; F and incorporate scent and color. Pour into the regular loaf silicone mold and allow to harden.&#xA0;<br><br><strong>Step 4:&#xA0;</strong>Melt 27.6 oz. of MP Soap Base. Allow to cool to 140&#xB0; F and incorporate scent and color.<br><br><strong>Step 5:</strong>&#xA0;Check that the first layer has hardened enough to continue. Spray the first layer with rubbing alcohol.<br><br><strong>Step 6:</strong>&#xA0;Once the melted soap has cooled to 125-130&#xB0; F, pour about a half an inch onto the hardened layer of soap.<br><br><strong>Step 7:</strong>&#xA0;Spray the star soap column generously with rubbing alcohol and place into the melted layer of soap.<br><br><strong>Step 8:</strong>&#xA0;Continue to pour the rest of the soap into the mold. Spritz the surface with rubbing alcohol to pop any surface bubbles.<br><br><strong>Step 9:</strong>&#xA0;Once fully hardened, you can remove the soap from the mold. To harden the soap faster, you can place it in the refrigerator but<strong><em> never put in the freezer</em></strong>. Wear gloves when you unmold your soap to reduce fingerprints.<br><br><strong>Step 10</strong>: Slice the loaf into 1&quot; bars with a soap cutter. Make sure it is completely hard or you will have the center ooze out when cutting.&#xA0;<br><br><strong>Step 11:</strong>&#xA0;Wrap your soap in plastic wrap to prevent condensation and sweating.</div>
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<h3 id="embed-soap-recipes">Embed Soap Recipes:</h3>
<div>
<p><a href="https://learning.elementsbathandbody.com/tutorial/summer-celebration-soap-recipe/" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Summer Celebration Layer Melt and Pour Soap Recipe</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/education/recipes/snow-globe-soap.aspx">Snow Globe Soap</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/education/recipes/duck-in-mp-soap.aspx">Duck in MP Soap</a></p>
<p>&#xA0;<a href="https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/education/recipes/Egg-Hunt-MP-Soap.aspx">Egg Hunt Soap</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/education/recipes/blue-heart-mp-soap.aspx">Blue Heart MP Soap</a><br><a href="https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/education/recipes/apple-balsam-pine-tree-loaf-mp-soap.aspx">Apple Balsam Pine Tree Loaf</a><br>&#xA0;<a href="https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/education/recipes/sea-glass-soap.aspx">Sea Glass Soap</a><br>&#xA0;<a href="https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/education/recipes/sliced-tomato-luffa-soap.aspx">Sliced Tomato Luffa Soap</a></p>
</div>

Melt and Pour Design Techniques: Working With Embeds

Melt and Pour Soap Bases contain high levels of vegetable glycerin. Glycerin is a natural byproduct of the saponification process. The ingredient glycerin is a humectant.

<p>Melt and Pour Soap Bases contain high levels of vegetable glycerin. Glycerin is a natural byproduct of the saponification process. The ingredient glycerin is a humectant. A humectant is a substance that can retain and preserve moisture, therefore also preventing loss of moisture as well. Humectants are very important in bath and body products. Having a moisturizing aspect to your products is especially crucial for the dry skin type products.</p>
<p>Sometimes, during the manufacturing process of melt and pour soaps, extra glycerin is added. Glycerin is a key ingredient for making clear soaps. Some types of melt and pour soaps even have up to 20% of pure glycerin in them (this would be why glycerin is listed so highly on the ingredients label). But remember this glycerin is what gives melt and pour soap some of its highly sought after qualities, easy to color and mold, skin loving nature, mild and gentle soap (good for children and sensitive skinned), and very highly moisturizing naturally.</p>
<p>In fact, it is believed that in theory when you wash your hands with glycerin soap, there will be a thin layer of glycerin that is left behind after you rinse off the lather. This layer of glycerin then does its humectant job and pulls moisture from the air, keeping your hand moisturized until the next wash. But, it is also this same ingredient which is causing your melt and pour soap to sweat. Some people believe that m&amp;p sweat is inevitable, but there are some steps you can take to help avoid and reduce sweat.</p>
<p>Because glycerin is a humectant, the sweat that is produced after m&amp;p soap in unmolded is actually condensation from the air that the glycerin drew out unto itself. This is a very important element to remember if you live in an area with high heat and high humidity, or if you are soaping while it is raining outside. Humidity is the number one cause for sweat.</p>
<p><strong>How to Reduce M&amp;P Soap Sweat:</strong></p>
<p>One of the best suggestions that we have for reducing the amount of sweat on your soaps is to have a dehumidifier in your soaping area. You also want to keep the temperature of the room where you are soaping constant. Drastic changes in temperature will also enhance soap sweat.</p>
<p>The first option in reducing sweat on m&amp;p soap, especially if you live in a very humid area, is to store unmolded soaps in an airtight container. By doing this, you are eliminating any extra moisture to be retained by the glycerin. One tip we have learned from our customers is to spread a thin layer of aroma beads into the bottom of the air tight container. Since aroma beads absorb liquid, this will also better your chances of having an air tight moisture free environment for your soaps to dry and harden.</p>
<p>In addition to the aroma beads, you will want to use drying racks in your containers if possible. Setting your soap directly on top of the aroma beads for long periods of time will also dry out your soaps. The time limit that the soaps can be in the air tight container is 2 hrs. The soaps should also be checked and rotated every 30 minutes.</p>
<p>Some soap crafters use muslin bags to lay their soap out to dry, rotating them once a day. This however will only work if you live in an area that does not have high humidity.</p>
<p>Although there is some debate as to when you can wrap your soap to avoid sweat, the general consensus is to wrap your soaps immediately after unmolding, if you are not storing them in an airtight container. Regardless of whether you are using, plastic wrap or saran wrap (sealed with a heat gun), or shrink wrap, the sooner you get the soaps covered, the less chance glycerin has to draw moisture to the outside of the soap.</p>
<p>Another way to reduce sweat forming on the soap is to allow the soap to cool and harden naturally. You want your soaps to harden at room temperature (70-72 degrees). Even though you can speed up the hardening process by placing your molds in the fridge/freezer, it should NEVER be any longer than 15-20 minutes depending on the size of your mold. Also, this step should never occur right after you poured the hot melted soap in the mold. Wait until your soap has already started to harden. The drastic temperature change from piping hot to freezing cold will lead to soap sweat. And, you never want to completely freeze soap. When the frozen soap thaws, you can almost guarantee soap sweat.</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em>On a closing note, soap sweat does not affect any of the soap&apos;s abilities. </em></span>Soap sweat happens naturally in humid environments that the soap is in. Although using the preventative measures listed above will help to reduce the amount of soap sweat that occurs on your bars of soap, soap sweat may still appear. The humectant agents in your soap are just doing their job, collecting moisture from the air, just as it will to moisturize your skin.</p>

Why Does M&P Soap Sweat?

Unlike cold process or hot process soap making, you can use your melt and pour soap right away! There is absolutely no cure time.

<p>One of the benefits of soy milk is that it hydrates the skin. Moisturizers containing soy milk extracts can make your skin soft and smooth. There have been studies done showing how products containing soy can have many positive effects on the skin. Soy-based moisturizers are perfect for combination skin. Dry skin can get hydrated while decreasing oiliness in other areas! Soy can have softening and smoothing effects while evening out skin tone.</p>
<p>Studies have also been done showing how soy can help in improving the appearance of aging skin, including diminishing fine lines and wrinkles. Soy is not only beneficial to your insides, but to your outsides as well!</p>
<p><strong>What is Melt and Pour Soap</strong></p>
<p>If you are new to melt and pour soap making, you may be wondering what is melt and pour soap. To put it simply, melt and pour soap is a soap based product that is composed of 50% soap and 50% solvents. The soap and solvent balance is especially formulated to absorb additives, such as fragrances and soap colorants. Also,our soap bases are created to be especially soothing for the skin. The melt and pour soap bases are made with no animal fats and they are not tested on animals. Another positive aspect of melt and pour soap is it&apos;s ability to be melted and re-melted without losing any of its qualities.</p>
<p>Lastly, unlike cold process or hot process soap making, you can use your melt and pour soap right away! There is absolutely no cure time, which is perfect for those that have no patience! If you are interested in learning more about melt and pour soap and their ingredients follow this link to our web page that will teach you even more!</p>
<p><strong>Benefits of Working With Melt and Pour Soap</strong></p>
<p>If you are interested in learning how to make soap, Melt and Pour soap is always a good place to start. Creating your own luxurious soap has never been easier and it allows for the soap maker to really focus on the aesthetic that makes this soap their own. A fun alternative to cold or hot process soap, melt and pour does not require the use of lye! Creating beautiful bathtime masterpieces is made safe and easy.</p>
<p>We have many types of soaps to work with! You can chose from Goat&apos;s Milk, Honey, Cocoa Butter, Oatmeal, Shea Butter, Clear glycerin, Hemp, Mango, SLS free and of course Soy Milk. So many choices! Where do you start? Below, we have eight fun and easy melt and pour soap recipes that would be an awesome addition to your line of soaps. We are sure that you will find something to inspire you to create a beautiful bar of soap that your customers will love!</p>
<p><strong>What Is Soya</strong></p>
<p>Before we get started on our recipes, let&apos;s discuss what soya is exactly. Soya Milk comes from, of course, soybeans. To create soya milk, dried soybeans are soaked and then ground into a puree. Once that is completed, the mixture is boiled and lastly, filtered to remove any insoluble residue. Those that are vegan, or vegetarian may know the original form as Tofu. A very popular substitution for meat. Soya Milk has become very popular throughout the world as a comparable substitution for those that are vegan or lactose intolerant.</p>
<p>Soya Milk is chock full of protein, riboflavins, vitamin B-12, fiber and isoflavins. Drinking soya milk can be beneficial for men and women. Studies have been done on the effects of drinking soya milk. These benefits range from helping with weight loss to easing the symptoms of women experiencing menopause to helping prevent prostrate cancer in men.</p>
<p>&#xA0;</p>
<p><strong>Soy Recipes</strong></p>
<p>We talked about how good using soy in your diet can be beneficial both inside and out. Well, we helped you out with finding fun soya soap recipes. How about some recipes that use soy based ingredients? From baked goods, entrees and smoothies or milkshakes, follow this link to Soyconnection.com to see how you can incorporate soy into your diet!</p>
<p>So that&apos;s all we have today on soya melt and pour soap. We hope you enjoyed reading on all the different ways you can use our skin happy melt and pour soap base. We are here for you anytime you need a question answered about a product or even help in getting some inspiration to create new products! Give us a call anytime or find us on social media! Look for us on Facebook and Instagram and we will help you out to the best of our abilities!</p>

How do I Make Soy Soap?

It’s a fairly simple technique with only a few steps. Follow along to create the perfect whipped topping for melt & pour soaps.

We love a foamy, whipped top on many of our melt &amp; pour soap designs. It can dress up a design and it&#x2019;s the perfect accent for so many food and drink themes, making it perfect for New Year&#x2019;s Eve soaps! It&#x2019;s a fairly simple technique with only a few steps. Follow along to create the perfect whipped topping for melt &amp; pour soaps.&#xA0;<br><br>
<div>
<div>1.&#xA0;Temperature plays a big role in getting the soap to stay whipped. If the soap is too hot when you start whipping, it will likely fall at as soon as the mixer is turned off. The temperature should be fairly cool before you start whipping, around 130 degrees F or cooler.<br><br>2.&#xA0;Once the soap has cooled to 130 degrees F or lower, it&#x2019;s time to start whipping! For a small amount of soap, you can use a mini-mixer with the whisk attachment. If you are making a larger batch of soap, a hand mixer will be best. Continue whipping on a medium speed until the soap has almost doubled in size, then you will be ready to pour or spoon onto your soap.<br><br>3. MP soap makers are accustomed to spraying with rubbing alcohol between every layer and as soon as the soap is poured. With the whipped topping, we still recommend spraying before pouring this layer, but there is no need to spray afterwards. In this case, the bubbles are what make the whipped topping and you do not want them to pop!<br><br>4. Once the soap is whipped it cools very quickly. It is best to work as fast as you can with it, as it can harden fast. If that happens, there&#x2019;s no need to panic. The soap can simply be reheated in the microwave and then re-whipped until you can nish your design.&#xA0;</div>
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<div>Check out this video at Wholesale Supplies Plus: https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/handmade101/learn-to-make-articles/learn-to-make-whipped-body-butter.aspx</div>
</div>

How do I Make a Whipped Foam Topping?

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