In candle making, a 'wet spot' refers to an air pocket that occurs as the wax is cooling causing the wax to pull away from the containers edge. Wax expands when it heats up and contracts as it cools. Part of the wax pulls away from the glassware and sticks to the container giving it the look pictured below.
Candles usually experience small temperature changes throughout their life cycle. Whenever there is a the temperature change, it increases the likelihood of candle wax pulling away from the jar sides. While the most noticeable volume change happends right after pouring the candle, you may also notice the pulling during the curing, shipping, and even while storing your candle. While wet spots can be visually unappealing, they do not affect the burn performance of a candle. If you find that you have wet spot that needs covering you can always put your label in that spot to cover the wet spot.
Using concentrated heat; with a heat gun, on the wet spots will melt the wax enough to fill in the voided areas and pushes the air to the top of the candle but can end up causing more problems than it solves. It is more common with paraffin wax but can also occur with soy. To help minimize this problem, below are some causes and prevention tips that can help:
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- [What are Jump Lines in Candles?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-are-jump-lines-in-candles-818476.md):
We tried numerous times to recreate jump lines, however because of our flaming awesomeness, every candle was jump-line-less. So, we had to find a stock photo that best represents jump lines.
What are Jump Lines in Candles
Jump lines are the visible horizontal rings that occur on the sides of your candles. These lines look like ridges and prevent your candle from having a smooth finish. Ideally, to have a perfect candle pour, your candle wax will still be in a complete liquid state once it has been poured into your container/pillar. This is the best shot you can give your candle to completely and uniformly cool naturally, therefore decreasing your chances of getting jump lines. All candle wax has to conform to the sides of the container/pillar mold at the same rate of time. This provides for the smooth finish of a candle.
In candle making when you are pouring the hot wax, it will begin to cool as soon as it hits the jar. As this happens, you will visibly be able to see wax layers materialize. If you do not pour quickly enough, the wax will naturally start to harden and stick to the wall of the container/ pillar mold. Since the temperature of the jar stays consistent, there is no heat source to re-melt the wall portion, therefore showing each line of cooled wax aka jump lines.
How do you prevent jump lines from occurring?
Jump lines can occur for several reasons, the first of which is intentionally. Jump lines can also be created on purpose to give candles a textured look. Since jump lines are an aesthetic thing, they do not have any kind of effect on the candles burn or scent throw.
One of the first things as a preventative measure that you can do is pour your wax at the correct temperature. You can do this by using a candy thermometer. You may have to increase your pouring temperature to adjust for jump lines. This is where testing and note taking will come into play. As always, it is of the utmost importance for candle making that your jars and/or pillars are room temperature. The second measure you can take is to heat your jars at the lowest setting on a cookie sheet in the oven for twenty minutes prior to filling them.
Another important factor in combating jump lines is your pouring rate. Obviously, you do not want to pour fast, this will result in wax splashing everywhere. And, adversely, you do not want to pour so slowly that you can actually see the jump lines establishing themselves in the candle. Find your pouring medium. If you are seeking a fool proof way to prevent jump lines from the pouring stage, try counting seconds or singing a lyric of a song. These tricks will help you stay uniform with your pour.
How to correct jump lines?
Although all of the steps mentioned earlier are great ways to prevent jump lines, once they have occurred in your candles you really only have a one option. Using a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the outside of the candle will remelt the outside layer of the wax, this will mask the jump lines from visible view, but once again, jump lines have no direct effect on a candle.
- [Why Is My Candle Smoking?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/why-is-my-candle-smoking-818481.md):Whenever something is being burned, there will be some amount of smoke. Naturally, when you limit the amount of oxygen, you will see more smoke than when ample oxygen is supplied. However, you can prevent your homemade candles from excessively smoking by making your candles the right way in the first place. There are a few reasons as to why a candle may smoke once lit.
The first check point to examine is whether or not the correct amount of fragrance oil was used in the process. Using more than the recommended amount of fragrance oil per pound of wax may sound like it is a good idea to have extreme scent, but in the end it is only wasteful (and costly), and can cause your candles to smoke. Wax has a fragrance load limit. Since it is a porous object, once each and every pore has been filled, there is no more area for the fragrance to go.
The second reason your candle may be smoking is the wick. Using the proper wick for the diameter size of the candle is the best way to ensure a clean and even burn in the candle. Go here to read a very interesting blog post on the science of candle wicks. A smoking wick will occur if the wick of the candle is too large for the container. To view a wick suggestion chart for your sized candle container. Avoid allowing the debris from wick clippings from entering into your melted wax, and keep your wicks trimmed to 1/4".
Finally, your colorant may cause your candle to smoke. It is important to know that pigments can clog your wick and can cause increased smoking when burning your candle. That is why only candle dyes should be used to color the interior wax of candles. Never use crayons to color your candles as they contain pigments instead of dyes. When using candle dyes, understand that using alot of candle dye may also cause your candles to smoke more.
How to Solve It!
When it comes to fragrance oil percentage, never use more than the suggested amount of fragrance oil per pound of wax. Remember, using more may result in a candle with a fragrance oil slick that is a fire hazard.
Do your research first. In order to know which wick to use in candle making, you must first know your candle's diameter. You can figure this out by measuring the bottom of your candle container with a ruler. You will want to measure horizontally across the center. Once you have this information, simply look at the wick suggestion chart and select which kind of wick you need. Keep wick trimmings out of your melted wax, and keep wicks trimmed to 1/4". Also, avoid burning your candles where there are fans or drafts. This can cause your wick to move around and burn too quickly; potentially smoking more.
In candle making temperature is very important. Many waxes offer a range in temperature for their key steps (melting temperature, scenting temperature, pouring temperature). It is a very good idea to monitor these temperatures with the help of a testing notebook and thermometer. Within a few times of making candles, you can have your temperatures down to a specific degree. With well taken notes, it is possible to have your candle making process replicated exactly time and time again.
Lastly, you always want to avoid using pigments in the interior of your candle. Only candle dyes should be used to color the interior of your candle wax.
- [How Do I Calculate My Candle Burn Rate?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-do-i-calculate-my-candle-burn-rate-818501.md):There are a couple of different ways to determine a candle's burn time (or burn rate). While either method can be used, we recommend using the first method for more accuracy in approximating a candle's burn time.
Please note: For both of the methods mentioned below on estimating a candle's burn time, we recommend slightly lowering the estimate to account for any remaining wax after the candle has extinguished itself.
Full Burn Test - You can burn the candle in 2 - 3 hour intervals and keep track of how many burns it takes for the candle to completey burn down until it extinguishes itself. For example, if you burned a candle in 2 hour intervals and it took 25 burns to fully burn down, the candle would have an approximate burn time of 50 hours (25 burns * 2 hours each). This method for determining the burn time can be a more lengthy process, but will provide a better estimate of a candle's burn time. If selling candles, we suggest performing this test on at least 2 candles simultaneously to ensure consistent results.
Partial Burn Test (weight method) - Another method for estimating a candle's burn time is by doing a partial burn test. To do this, you need to know how much wax was used in the finished candle to calculate the burn time estimate. Next, follow the steps below:
This example assumes a test burn time for a container candle. If calculating estimated burn times for free standing candles, the same steps will apply, only you will not need to account for the container weight.
While the partial burn test is a quick way to estimate a candle's burn time, the downfall to using this method is it's accuracy. Candles can have different burning characteristics as they burn down (i.e. the glass gets hotter) and odd shaped containers can skew the results due to varying widths of the candle.
- [Should I make a Soy candle?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/should-i-make-a-soy-candle-818477.md):When it comes to candle making, the wax you use is really up to personal choice.
There are quite a few reasons why candle makers select soy wax for their candles. Some like it due to the fact that soy wax is 100% natural (it is a pure vegetable wax) and it is biodegradable. Many prefer soy wax because of the long, even, and clean burn the wax provides with less soot. And, even still, many candle crafters like soy wax because it is an environmentally friendly, renewable resource that American farmers can plant and harvest; also helping the economy too. Some other reasons for why some people prefer using soy wax for their candles are ease of use. Since this wax is in flake form, it is a breeze to weigh out, work with, and clean up. And, soy wax is a single pour wax, requiring no repours.
Soy wax is for container candles. Due to the nature of this natural wax, the finished candle will have a mottled (or frosted) appearance on top. However, if you do not like this appearance, you can always apply heat to the finished candle with a hot hair dryer or heat gun.
Supplies and Equipment Needed:
Soy Wax
Fragrance Oil
Dye
Pouring Pot
Thermometer
Vessel
Wicks
Scale
Stainless steel mixing utensil
Cookie Sheet
Hot Glue Gun
Glue Sticks
Stove
Pot
A little behind the scenes knowledge:
For this candle making process we are going to suggest the double boiler system for melting the wax. Fill a large pot half way full with tap water. Place the filled pot onto the stove top burner. Turn the appropriate burner on medium heat. Once you have the pouring pot filled with the correct amount of soy wax, place the pouring pot into the water filled pot. Once the water starts to boil, you will notice that the soy wax is beginning to melt. As this occurs, you want to occasionally stir the wax to ensure an even temperature.
Carefully place your glassware on a cookie sheet. Preheat your oven to the lowest temperature possible. Once the oven is heated, place the cookie sheet with the glassware into the oven. Allow your glassware to warm in the oven for 10-15 minutes. Once the allotted time has passed, carefully remove the cookie sheet using oven mitts. Set these aside.
The standard fragrance percent for soy candles is 1-1 ounces of fragrance oil per pound of wax.
For measuring purposes, 20 ounces (weight) of soy wax is equivalent to 16 ounces of fluid volume.
Directions for making a soy candle:
1. Weigh out the correct amount of soy wax with your scale.
2. Place your soy wax into your pouring pot and using the double boiler system, heat the wax to 185 degrees Fahrenheit. Monitor this by using your thermometer. Please Note: Heating soy wax hotter than 200 degrees Fahrenheit will discolor the wax, so proper monitoring of the temperature is advised.
3. While you are waiting on the wax, plug in your hot glue gun.
4. Once the wax is in a liquid state, add your candle colorant.
5. Next, add your fragrance oil of choice and stir well to incorporate throughout the wax. The information we provide below about flash point and burnoff is information we have learned over the years that will help make the best soy wax candles. When making candles, it is important to understand that ingredients affect the end result. Testing needs to be done by the candle maker for every fragrance that you decide to use. We provide the information as a guide, but you will still need to do the testing yourself.
a. For this step you will need to know the flashpoint of the fragrance oil you selected. The right temperature is extremely important to ensure that the fragrance oil binds properly with the soy wax. You also do not want to risk burnoff . Burnoff is the adding of a fragrance oil at too hot of a wax temperature. Because a flashpoint on a fragrance oil is the highest temperature the fragrance can handle before breaking down, burnoff can affect the scent in the finished candle. That is why you want to know the proper temperature to add the fragrance oil.
b. Fragrance Flashpoints give you the answer as to when you add your fragrance oil to the hot wax. Any flashpoint that is higher than 185 degrees Fahrenheit is added at 185 degrees. For any flashpoints that are below 185 degrees, they should be added at or below the flashpoint degree. The key to remember is try not to add the fragrance oil at a temperature that is hotter than its flashpoint.
c. Some fragrance oils have a very low flashpoint. In these cases, testing comes into play. You are balancing flashpoint temperatures with the fact that the wax needs heat in order to bind the scent with the wax.
6. Once the soy wax has been scented and colored, you will want to stir your wax thoroughly. Doing this step will help the mixing and binding of the color and scent throughout the wax.
7. The next step is allow your soy wax to cool at room temperature. Place your thermometer into the pouring pot and wait until the wax reaches 110 degrees Fahrenheit. Pouring at this temperature will allow for a smoother surface in your finished candle. While you are waiting, prep your containers for the pour.
8. Using your hot glue gun, place a little amount of glue to the bottom of the wick tab. Then, carefully center the wick to the bottom of the glassware. Gently, straighten your wick in each glass.
9. Once your wax is the appropriate temperature (110 degrees F), you will notice the physical appearance of the wax will be slushy like. At this point, you are now ready to pour your wax. Slowly, fill each glass to the point where the jar changes shape. Filling a jar surpassed the point where the jar changes shape will increase your chance of a sink hole in the finished candle.
10. Once all containers have been poured, allow them to set up and undisturbed at room temperature.
11. When all candles have completely set up, lid each container to allow for the fragrance to be absorbed by the wax. This is known as the cure time. For best results, allow your candles to cure for 24-48 hours.
12. Once the cure time has elapsed, it is now time to trim your wick, and light your homemade soy candle. Enjoy!
On a Final Note:
Anytime you burn a candle for the first time, you want to establish a memory burn. A memory burn is a complete wet pool of hot, melted wax over the entire top portion of the candle. If the first burn is a memory burn, this ensures that every time you burn your candle, you will not have tunneling around the wick or an excess of unmelted wax adhered to the candle jar. A memory burn also guarantees that the scent throw of your candle will be the best possible since every gram of scented wax is being used.
- [What are the differences between Soy Wax and Paraffin?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-are-the-differences-between-soy-wax-and-paraffin-818486.md):Here are a few characteristics to help you compare paraffin and soy wax.
| Characteristic | ||
| Color after dye | Can be light or dark | Produces pastel (light) colors |
| Transparency | Somewhat transparent | Opaque |
| Soot | Black soot – amount depends on additives and wick size | Clear/hardly visible soot |
| Frosting | No frosting | Frosting – This is a characteristic that will occur more with natural soy wax (blended soy waxes frost less than straight soy waxes) |
| Wet Spots | Depends on atmospheric changes | Depends on atmospheric changes. Seems to be less noticeable than paraffin candles. |
| Scent Throw | Ready to burn (and smell) right after the wax cools and hardens. Scent throw will also depend on how much is used, if it is a quality, strong oil, and if the candle is wicked properly. | Soy candles need time to cure for the scent to be “set.” We recommend a minimum of 5-6 days. The scent will usually get stronger over a few weeks. Scent throw will also depend on how much is used, if it is a quality, strong oil, and if the candle is wicked properly. |
| Types available | Pillar, container, tart, etc. | Pillar, container, tart, etc. |
| Origin | By-product of petroleum | Made from soy beans |
When our customers are deciding on which type of wax to go with, we typically recommend the following when asked for our opinion:
CHOOSE PARAFFIN IF:
- Bright, bold colors are important to you
- The effect of frosting is aesthetically unappealing to you
- You want strongly scented candles without much cure time
CHOOSE SOY IF:
- You like the fact that soy wax comes from soy beans and you are supporting American soybean farmers
- You prefer pastel colors and/or you do not mind frosting (Frosting isn't very noticeable if you do not add dye. Many soy candle makers do not add dye).
- You do not want to see any black soot coming from the wick.
If there is one thing that candles are known for is their scent. In fact, the majority of candle sales are based on the scent given off from the candle. This is true for both first-time sales as well as repeat customers. When a candle has never been lit, the aromatic aroma that the wax gives off is called the cold scent throw. Adversely, when the wick of the candle is lit, the fragrant smell that is released from the candle is called the hot scent throw. Both the hot and cold scent throw are very important to candles.
Obviously, when it comes to scent issues, your first thought is to turn to the fragrance oil used. However, as long as you are purchasing your candle making supplies from a reputable company, the fragrance oil that you use is not the culprit. There are actually several different things that can inhibit your scent throw.
Soy Wax- If you have been in the candle making market long enough, you already know that soy wax is considered to be one of the hardest of the waxes to attain a good scent throw from. On the molecular level of how soy wax is structured, there are many different types of chemical bonds. These chemical bonds trap the fragrance oil instead of allowing the fragrance oil to be readily evaporated (like paraffin wax allows). Many people suggest that when using soy wax to make it a blend with Paraffin. This is referred to as a para-soy blend. There are a variety of different para-soy blends on the market. If you would like to blend your own para-soy blend, massive testing is involved to find the perfect candle you are seeking.
Wick- Soy wax requires a hotter burning wick. This is because of the chemical bonds. These chemical bonds take more heat to break them down. To solve this dilemma, increase your wick size. This will ensure that your candle wick is doing its proper job of breaking down the chemical bonds, allowing the trapped fragrance oil to become volatile and release the scent into the air. No matter what type of wax you are using, always make sure that your wick size is large enough to provide ample hot scent throw, but not too large to create a fire hazard.
Candle Colorant- You must remember when crafting your candles, use precaution when adding any colorant. When you add too much colorant to your wax, you risk both clogging your wick, as well as, affecting the overall scent of the candle. Specific candle dyes formulated for candle making should be used when making candles. Never use pigments to color the interior of your candles; pigments should be used only for dipping the exterior of candles.
Vybar- Yes, it is true that the addition of this candle additive will increase your candles scent throw. However, adding too much vybar to your candle wax will inhibit your candle throw as well. The proper amount of vybar to add per pound of wax is tsp to tsp.
Temperature- Depending on the flashpoint of the fragrance oil being used, adding your fragrance oil at too high of a melted wax temperature will directly affect your scent throw of the finished candle. It is completely possible to burn off the majority of your fragrance oil before it even has a chance to be a candle, when the fragrance oil is added at too hot of a temperature.
Cure Time- Cure time is one key step to ensuring a wonderfully strong scent to your candles. You want to allow ample time for your wax and your fragrance to bind together. You truly want these two components to be integrated into each other. At the minimum, cure time with candles is 3-4 days.
Fragrance Oils- When making candles, make sure that the fragrance oils you are using were formulated for candle making. You never want to use a fragrance oil that has been diluted with diluents like DPG (di propylene glycol). DPG will directly affect the strength of your fragrance, and will inhibit the ability of your candle to burn. On the other hand, some essential oils will need to have diluents added to them to allow them to travel up the wick and release scent (but never use DPG as your diluent in candles).
- [What Are Common Candle Making Questions and Answers?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-are-common-candle-making-questions-and-answers-818482.md):We understand that it can be difficult to create perfect candles. Especially if you have serious scent throw issues popping up, it can be frustrating to put time and money into candles that don't work that way you want. So, we want to answer some common candle making questions to prevent confusion and save you from all that extra troubleshooting. So, let's talk about common problems so we can get back to creating gorgeous homemade candles!
Candle Wax Questions:
How Do You Melt Candle Wax at Home?
You can use a pouring pot and a stove top to melt your wax at home. Also, we recommend using a double boiler method where you have a larger pot with water in it and set your pouring pot full of wax inside. Turn the stove on to medium and allow the water in your pot to boil. This will safely heat your wax without letting it get too hot.
Which is the Best Wax for Candle Making?
Choosing the best wax all depends on preference of what you prefer in a finished candle. First, we have soy waxes that are vegan, gluten free, and natural candle waxes. This is the least expensive wax, has a fantastic cold throw, and has a cleaner burn, but it is tricky to get a great hot throw with some fragrances. Also, Soy Wax often has frosting and a rougher finish.
Next, we have paraffin wax, which has the best scent throw, and is in both the Wow Wax and Joy Wax. The Joy wax uses a mixture of paraffin and soy, so it has a cleaner burn due to the soy wax and a really good hot scent throw due to the paraffin wax. Also, it clings to the candle containers better and has less frosting. An option for creating a translucent candle is gel wax, but it isn't compatible with all fragrances.
Additionally, you can use palm wax, which comes from sustainable sources, has a beautiful crystal finish, and has a great scent throw. Lastly, Pillar of Bliss Wax and Palm Pillar wax are great options for creating pillars or wax tarts.
Soy Candle Questions:
What is the Best Temperature to Pour Soy Wax?
This temperature depends on the type of soy wax being used. We recommend pouring our 100% soy wax at 110 degrees Fahrenheit. For the Golden Brands 444 or Golden Brands 464, we suggest pouring at 135 degrees Fahrenheit
What is the Best Temperature to Add Fragrance to Soy Wax?
For heavier fragrance oils with high flash points, we recommend adding the scented oil at 185 degrees Fahrenheit. However, lighter fragrances with lower flash points, Ike citrus scents, would be added around 160 degrees Fahrenheit
Which Wick is Best for Soy Candles?
Many customers perfer to use a cotton wick for their soy candles. We have two types of cotton wicks available, which are HTP and CD candle wicks.
How Do You Make Soy Wax Melts?
Although we don't carry soy wax in a pillar form for melts, you can still create soy wax melts with container wax. Often, customers will use individual portion cups to package wax melts like these, which can be used to squeeze the wax into the wax burner. This is because it is softer than pillar wax and is difficult to get out of clamshells. However, this wax will not hold the shape from a mold. In fact, it will get stuck in your mold and be difficult to clean. Another option when making wax melts with a container wax is to add stearic acid to the wax to harden it.
Fragrance Questions:
Why Don't My Candles Have a Good Scent Throw?
This issue could have a few different possible causes. First, you may not have added enough fragrance, which should be 1 oz. per pound on average. Also, your candle may have a clogged wick. This could be due to adding too much fragrance, vybar, or another additive. Also, additives like mica and crayons will clog your wick.
Another possibility is the type of wax you are using. A wax like paraffin will have a better scent throw than soy waxes. Finally, it is possible that you have the wrong size wick. If you wick is too small, then the flame will not be hot enough to get the aroma into the air. On the other hand, a wick that is too large will burn the scent oil before it can be released into the air.
What is Vybar Used for in Candle Making?
If you have a poor scent throw and you have tried trouble shooting, then you may want to use vybar. The vybar can be used to increase scent throw by adding some amount between a fourth and a half teaspoon per pound of wax. Just be cautious not to add too much or it can clog your wick and reduce your scent throw. We suggest using Vybar 103 for pillar candles and Vybar 206 for container candles.
Why Is Fragrance Oil Settling to the Bottom of the Candle?
If you notice that fragrance is settling at either the top or bottom of your candle, then there could be a few reasons to explain it. First, you've added too much fragrance oil. Another option is that the wax you are using isn't porous enough and you may need a more porous wax. Along with this idea, waxes that have been burned or heated too much may reduce in their ability to hold fragrance. Finally, you may have not stirred enough to fully incorporate the fragrance oil.
Can You Use Essential Oils in a Wax Warmer?
While some essential oils can be used in wax warmers, it can be a bit tricky. You need to make sure that they are diluted with either a carrier oil or DPG. Additionally, some essential oils have flashpoints that are too low for a wax warmer. So, you will want to do some testing with the essential oils that you choose.
Wick Questions:
Why is My Candle Wick Drowning Out?
This could be due to either a small wick or a high candle. First, the wick you used may be too small for a candle of this diameter, which you can use our Candle Wick Chart for reference. Also, your wick could be drowning if you poured your candle wax up too high. You should stop pouring before the wax passes the part of the candle jar that changes shape and begins to curve for the lip.
Why Isn t My Candle Wax Not Burning Evenly All of the Way Down?
Uneven burning could be due to either the wax or the wick. First, the wick may be too small for your candle's size. Also, the wax that you chose could be too hard. While you could use a softer wax instead, you could also switch to a hotter wick.
General Questions:
Sometimes I Follow All Recommendations and I Still Can't Seem to Get it Right. Why is That?
There are many factors that can influence the outcome of your homemade candles. First, fragrance oils can impact a candle, as thicker scented oils require you to wick up to get a hotter burn. Also, the room temperature can effect your candles. If the room is too cold, then you can have more issues with glass adhesion and frosting because your candle will setup very quickly.
Additionally, you could have an issue where the scent doesn't smell as strong because you are used to it. When you are around a scent for too long, your nose will adjust and you won't notice it as much. If this happens to you, then don't worry too much just take a break from the scent for awhile and your nose will recognize it again after a long enough break.
Why are My Layers Bleeding in my Candle?
This color issue could have one of a few different causes. First, the layers were too hot. If you don't wait long enough or pour your wax too soon, then the layers can melt one another and start to run into one another. Also, it could be due to over saturating your candle with fragrance, as the extra scented oil will blend with colorant and bring the color with it as it seeps out of the candle.
Can I Use Mica in Candles?
We recommend that you don't mix mica into the candle itself, because it will clog the wick. But, you can use mica to decorate the outside of pillar candles! After your pillar is created you can then, use the mica on the outer portion of your candle. This shimmery mixture can be used to provide a beautiful sparkle on the outside of your candles.
Can Mica be used in Wax Melts?
Sure! Since we don't have to worry about clogging the wick, you can mix it straight into the candle wax.
How Do I Get Rid of the Air Bubbles in My Candles?
There are a few reasons why air bubbles could get trapped in your candles, which include water exposure and pouring at a cooler temperature. So, how do you prevent air bubble in a homemade candle? First, keep water away from your work station. Also, you can try pouring your wax at a hotter temperature. Further, pour your candle wax slowly and make sure to stop before you hit pour point where your jar begins to change shape.
Can You Melt Old Candles to Make New Ones?
We don't recommend re-purposing old candles to make new ones. While this may seem like a create idea to take all you half used candles and make a new one, the scent is a big concern in this case. If these candles are scented, then they will already contain fragrance oil. Once you melt your old candles, the scent may fade, but many of the wax particles are still holding on to some of the scent oil. This means that you won't be able to add enough fragrance oil without over saturating your candle. Since the candle already is holding scent, this extra fragrance will seep out and sit on the top of your candle, which is dangerous and can result in a flame that is too large.
Reach Out to Us
Hopefully, we were able to get some of your more pressing questions answered. If you have any more questions or concerns about making your own candles, then please reach out to us. We are always happy to help! You can stop by the store, give us a call, or talk to us on social media. If you want to find us online, we have Facebook page and Instagram. Good luck and have fun with candle making!
- [How Do I Fill Candle Jars?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-do-i-fill-candle-jars-818484.md):One of the most frequent questions we are asked by new candle makers is: How much candle wax will I need to fill my jars? And, the solution is really simple to find out with this equation.
Basically, you will find that 1 pound (by weight) of candle wax will equal 20 ounces (in volume) when pouring into containers or molds. With this knowledge, you can use simple math to figure out how much candle wax you will need to fill your containers or molds.
Take for example that you are making 6 oz. hexagon container candles for a wedding. For this order, you have to make a total of 200 wedding candles. The question you are asking yourself is, "how much candle wax will you need to fill all 200- 6oz. jars"? Here is the equation to figure it out: Take 200 x 6 to come up with your total weighted ounces. For this example, the answer is equal to 1200 ounces. Now, you must divide your total weighted ounces (1200 ounces) by 20 (volume ounces) to find out the total pounds of wax you will need for your wedding (60 pounds of wax).
Let's try one more example since the 16oz. jar size is one of the most popular sized jars that candle makers sell. Now, you want to make 24 candles, all of which will be poured into 16 oz. jars. This equation would compute to: 24 (the amount you have to make) x 16 (the ounce size of the jar)= 384 (the total number of ounces). Now take 384 and divide this by 20 (the volume) and the answer you get is 19.2 pounds of wax (thus you should likely get 20 pounds of wax to cover yourself.
Remember the equation: Number of Candles you want to make (multiplied by) Volume of your containers (divided by) 20 = Total number of pounds of wax you will need to do your project.
We hope that this simple equation will help you figure out how much wax you will need in the future.
Happy Candle Making!
- [Can you help a beginner in Candle Making?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/can-you-help-a-beginner-in-candle-making-818485.md):We know that there is a lot of candle making terminology and techniques that you need to know to make great homemade candles. So, we are going to answer some common candle making questions and problems to make your experience more fun. So, set aside your candle making equipment and let's figure out how to make gorgeous scented candles!
Types of Candles
What is a Pillar Candle?
Pillar candles are free-standing candles that don't require a container. These often use a harder type of candle wax that is made for creating pillar candles, like Pillar of Bliss Wax or Palm Pillar Wax.
What is a Votive Candle?
Votive Candles are a smaller kind of candle. The average size is 1.5 ounces and they are about two inches tall and one and a half inches wide. These are often made with a Votive Mold.
What is a Tealight Candle?
Tea Lights are very small candles that are about an inch and a half wide and a half inch tall. They can be made in Tea Light Cups .
Candle Fragrances
What Does Fragrance Load Mean?
In candle making, fragrance load refers to the amount of fragrance oil that you are using in your homemade candle recipe.
My Candle Wax Will Hold a 10% Fragrance Load. How Do I Know How Much to Add?
All you need to do is some simple math that we will walk you through! First, weigh the amount of candle wax you are using. Then, multiply this amount by 0.10, which is 10% to determine the amount of fragrance oil that you can use.
Formula: Candle Wax Weight X Fragrance Percentage = Amount of Fragrance That Can Be Added
Example: 20 (ounces of candle wax) X 0.10 = 2 ounces of fragrance oil So, since your candle wax is in ounces, the fragrance amount that can be added to the candle wax will also be in ounces.
What Does Scent Throw Mean?
The scent throw is the strength of fragrance that the candle releases into the air. Cold throw is the strength of scent when the candle is not lit yet. Hot throw is the strength of the scent throw when the candle is lit and burning.
Candle Waxes
What Kind of Wax Should I Use for Candles?
Choosing a candle wax type depends on the type of candle that you want to create. So, the isn't a universal answer to the question, "Which is the best wax for candle making?" For example, pillar candles would require a pillar wax, which includes Pillar of Bliss Candle Wax and Palm Pillar Wax. The Pillar of Bliss Wax is a blend of soy and paraffin that has a great scent throw and a creamy finish. The Palm Pillar Wax has a crystal finish, has a wonderful scent throw, and comes form sustainable sources.
However, container candles would be best with a container wax, which includes soy wax, Joy wax, WOW Wax, palm wax, and gel wax. Soy wax would make a great, inexpensive addition to your natural candle making supplies. It has a clean burn and and excellent cold throw, but it can be tricky to get a good hot throw from certain fragrances. Wow wax is mostly paraffin and has an amazing hot throw, but has a less clean burn. Joy wax is a perfect blend of paraffin wax and soy wax, as well as veggie wax and proprietary ingredients, that provides a cleaner burn with an amazing scent throw. Gel wax has a neat translucent look, but is not compatible with all fragrance oils. Our palm wax comes from sustainable sources that aren't harming the rainforest, has a beautiful crystal appearance, and a great scent throw.
What is Granulated Wax?
Simply, this is wax that is grainy and looks kind of like sand. This wax can be scented and colored without melting, so it is a easy and fun way to create candles with kids. We have made candle recipes like the Bacon Candle Recipe and the Hydrangea Candle Recipe with this type of wax.
Crucial Temperatures
Do I Need to Worry About the Temperatures When Making Candles?
Yes, this is very important for creating quality homemade candles! There are a few key moments where you will need a thermometer to be aware of the temperature of your wax. First, you need to make sure that your fragrance oil isn't added at a temperature that is too hot. If your fragrance is added at a temperature that is too high, then some of the notes may burn off and leave you with a less satisfying scent. Another issue is pouring your wax into the container too soon. If you pour at a temperature that is too cool, you could have improper adhesion, wet spots, sinking, and other issues. So, be sure to check your wax's description to see the temperature that is should be poured.
What does sinkhole mean?
Sinkhole is a hole or cavity that appears on your candle as it is setting up. Often, this occurs when the candle wax is poured at too low of a temperature.
Can You Cool a Candle in the Fridge?
No, candles should cool as slowly as possible on their own. If you place a candle in the fridge to cool, they may not adhere to the glass properly, which can lead to wet spots.
Candle Wicks
Choosing the Right Wick
The size of your wick depends on the diameter of your container. You can see the radius for each wick under it's description. However, you will still need to test because there are many variable between wax type and fragrance oil. A fragrance with a high flash point and high specific gravity, like vanilla, requires a hotter burn. But, low flash point scents with low specific gravity, like citrus, need a smaller wick. Also, you may hear the terms "wick up' and "wick down" when talking about find the right wick size. Wick down means that you should use a wick that is smaller than what you have been using and wick up means that you should use a wick that is larger than what you use for candles this size.
How Do You Stop a Candle From Tunneling?
If you don't know, tunneling is often the answer for the question, "Why isn t my candle wax not burning evenly all of the way down?" Tunneling can happen for a few reasons, which includes issues with wick size. If your wick is too small for the diameter of your candle, then it will not burn all the way to the outside edge. So, you may either need a larger wick, multiple wicks, or a different type of wick that will burn hotter.
However, there are a few other issues that could cause tunneling. If you think your wick is the right size, then look into some of these potential issues, First, you may have a clogged wick, which can cause uneven burning. Also, it could be that you didn't do a memory burn for the candle's first use to ensure a proper burn. Finally, you may need to use a wax that has a lower melt point that is easier for you chosen wick to handle.
Why Are My Candle Jars Black After I Burn My Candles?
Often, this occurs when you wick is too big for your jar or your wick is too long. If your wick is trimmed down to 1/4 inch, then the length is fine. You can check the suggested radius for your wick to see if you need to get a smaller size. Also, using too much fragrance can clog the wick and cause more soot than normal.
Do Candle Wicks Contain Lead?
No, candle wicks in the Unites States, like ours, do not contain lead. In fact, lead core wicks were banned in the US in 2003.
Proper Burning
What is a Memory Burn?
This is the first burn of your candles and is the most important. This burn will set the boundary of your melt pool and will determines whether the edges of your candle will be reached. A guide is to burn an hour for every inch your candle is wide to ensure that it will burn properly as it is used in future burns. Also, you will want to make sure that you wick isn't too low and isn't longer than 1/4 inch high.
What Does Melt Pool Mean?
Melt Pool is the candle wax that has melted on the top of the candle. Ideally, you will want this to be all the way across the top of your candle to ensure an even burn.
What Does Mushrooming Mean in Candle Making?
When I notice black clumps on top of my wick, I know that it is mushrooming. While all wick produce this carbon as they burn, some are worse than others. Also, factors that clog the wick can increase the mushrooming effect. The CD wicks produce the least amount of mushrooming, but there isn't a way to completely stop it due to it being a product of burning the wick.
Candle Coloring
How Do You Color a Candle?
There are a few different candle colorant options for your home made candles. First, you can use our Liquid Candle Dyes, which are extremely concentrated and will last a long time. Also, you can use a color block, which is made with paraffin, vegan, and can color up to 15 pounds of wax. Lastly, you can use a bit of powder dye. Just be careful not to use too much because it can clog your wick.
Can You Use Crayons to Make Candles?
We do not suggest using crayons to color candles. They don't burn properly and are likely to clog your wick.
What is a UV Light Inhibitor?
Since UV light from the sun can bleach the color out of candles, the UV light inhibitor is used to protect the color of your candles. This candle ingredient is most useful for preventing fading in burgundy, blue, and violet candle colors due to direct sunlight.
How Do I Color My Candles White?
While titanium dioxide can be used to create white pillar candles, you don't want to add it straight to your container candles as it can clog your wick.
Candle Appearance
How Do I Get Rid of Wet Spots on My Candles?
Wet spots are air pockets that are formed when your candle didn't adhere properly to your candle jar. You can take a few steps to prevent this if you are having problems. First, try warming your candle jars to give you wax more time to cool. Also, you can try pouring your wax at a hotter temperature. Another good tip is to make sure the room your are making your candles in a room that is warm.
What Is Frosting In Candle Making?
Frosting is the white stuff that appears on waxes that contain soy wax. You can use a heat gun or blow dryer to re-melt the surface and give it a smoother finish. While you can lessen the effect of frosting, you can't eliminate it completely.
What Are Jump Lines?
These are the line that you can see on the side of either a container candle or a pillar candle.
Progression of Candles
As you can tell, there is a lot that goes into candle making. But, it is a process that has been developed overtime and takes time to master. If you are interested in learning a bit about the evolution of candles, then check out The History of Candles from Prehistoric Times Until Now by Pioneer Thinking.
Talk to Us
If you have any more questions about candle making, you can ask us! We are on Facebook, and Instagram.
- [How do I fix my candle?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-do-i-fix-my-candle-818499.md):Our troubleshooting guide is meant to serve as a reference in addressing problems you may be experiencing either making or burning candles. While we cannot list every scientific problem that can arise with candles, it does provide possible causes and resolutions for many common candle related issues.
General Candle Making/Burning Issues
| Issue | Potential Reason for Issue | Resolution for Issue |
| Small flame or flame drowns out |
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| Candle flame too big |
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| Candle wick is ‘mushrooming’ |
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| Candle color fades |
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| Little or no scent throw |
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| Candle not burning evenly |
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| Sputtering flame |
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| Candle burning rapidly |
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| Candle surface has a ‘mottled’ effect |
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| Candle will not stay lit |
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| Oil seeping from candle |
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| Candle cracked during cooling |
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| Candle has dye spots on surface |
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| Candle color is fading |
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| Candle has ‘tunneling’ effect (leaving wax on the sides of container candles) |
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We asked our Facebook Friends what creative ways they use to center their wicks for candle making. The responses were very effective, unique suggestions, many of which involved household items they had at their disposal.
Best Ways to Center Candle Wicks
Obviously at this point in your candle making, you have dedicated a lot of time and money learning, testing, and researching everything there is to know about making candles. All this is accomplished by you with one end goal in mind crafting the greatest candle you can!
For all the sacrifices made and devotion set forth in crafting candles, one thing is for sure; you do not want one simple little thing as an off centered wick to prevent you from that perfect candle. In a candle, an improperly centered wick directly affects the burn, your melt pool, and your hot scent throw. So, needless to say, ensuring that you have a centered wick should be a top priority.
There are many different options you have to center your wick. Sure, you can buy a wick centering tool, wick bar, or self centering wicks, but since we have such wonderfully talented customers, we thought we would ask them how they do it. We turned to our Facebook Fans to share any input or suggestions that they had for centering candle wicks. The responses were super creative, and many of their ideas had little to no cost.
The first step in centering your wick is to find the center.
Tips for finding the center:
Since many of the candle jars that are used are transparent, one customer suggests using a printed dart target to get that perfect bulls eye center each time with their wick tabs. You will of course want to tape these bulls eyes to your work space so that they are consistent every time. Then, it is just a matter of placing your jars on top to find the center.
Because most crafters have a continuous standard with their jar sizes, one of our customers traces the bottom of the jar onto cardstock. Then, using a tape measure they calculate the exact center and mark it on the cardstock. This cardstock then becomes a template for centering the wick each time that jar size is used. The result is a perfectly centered wick.
So, now that you know where the center of your jars is. The next step is securing your wick to the bottom. Here are some of the great methods provided by our Fabulous Facebook Fans for this step:
Hot Glue Gun:
By placing a dap of hot glue in the center of the candle jar, and then gently pushing the wick tab over the glue before it hardens; you can secure your centered wick tab and pull the wick straight.
Glue Dots/ Sticky Wickums/ Sticky Tack:
The same concept as a hot glue gun, you simply remove the glue dot from the backing and place it on the bottom of the wick tab. Then, press the wick tab in the center of the bottom of the candle jar and secure. Pull the wick straight.
Empty Pen Tube/Drinking Straw:
Using an empty pen tube that the wick is threaded through you can press the tab right on the glue dot/hot glue at the bottom of the candle jars. This is a great option for those of you who can't necessarily reach the bottom of your jars to secure the tabs to the bottom.
Tips for keeping your wick centered:
Pencils:
Using a pencil wrap the excess wick around it and lay this across the opening of the candle jar. This will keep the wick straight and tight while the wax is cooling.
Cardboard/Cardstock:
Using cardboard or cardstock to cut a thick stick that can lay across the top of your candle jar is a perfect solution to keeping your wick straight. By making a small slit in the cardboard stick, you can easily slide your extra wick in place and hold it there. Nicole Streeter even takes it a bit further by adding that she uses the cardstock with the slit in the middle but also writes the scent of each candle on the cardstock. This is the perfect solution when doing multiple fragranced candles.
Chopsticks/Coffee Stirrers/ Popsicle sticks (aka craft sticks)/ Kabob Sticks (aka Bamboo Skewers):
This is essentially the same idea of the pencil with the excess wick wrapped around it. But, how this differs is you use this method if you do not have a lot of excess wick available for wrapping. By placing 2 of the same items together; secured at each end with rubber bands/strings/hemp, you are now able to simply slide the excess wick through the middle. These items secured together will allow for a nice taunt hold of the wick. With the popsicle sticks you also have the option of drilling a small hole into the center of your craft sticks with a dremel. If there is any extra wick, this can be easily wrapped around the craft stick once it is secured through the hole.
- [What Do Candle Wick Numbers Mean?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-do-candle-wick-numbers-mean-818487.md):This is one of the most common questions we receive. The wick numbers represent the size of the wick. Candles need the right wick size specific to their diameter to burn correctly. Smaller diameter candles require smaller wick sizes and larger diameter candles require larger wick sizes (unless you are using more than one wick).
As a general rule, the larger the wick number, the larger (thicker) the wick size. This is important when determining the right wick size to use for a specific candle diameter. Using too small of a wick will lead to 'tunneling' or will cause the flame to drown out. Using too large of a wick size will lead to excess smoking, soot, and/or mushrooming, as well as cut down on the candle burn time. Understanding the wick size number is essential to ensure you are using the right wick size that will lead to optimal burning characteristics.
Some wicks have 3 different numbers for the wick size. For example, one of our zinc wick sizes is 60-44-18. Below is a description of what the numbers represent:
The first number tells you the wick size. The size of the wick is determined by how many spools of yarn were used to make the wick. The higher the number, the larger the wick. As a general rule, the larger wick sizes will have a bigger melt pool and usually have higher wax consumption.
The second number indicates the speed at which the wick was sent through the braiding machine. The higher the number, the faster the speed and the tighter the braid. Wicks with a tighter braid have less fuel (wax) consumption.
The third number is a code for the temperature of the wax as the wick is fed through the gears of the braiding machine. This temperature varies according to the two previous numbers.
Note: Many pre-tabbed wicks may appear to be the same thickness even though they are different wick sizes. Smaller wick sizes tend to have a thicker wax coating which creates the illusion of having the same thickness of larger wicks sizes. However, these wicks will burn differently when used in a finished candle.
- [What Candle Wick Size Do I Need?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-candle-wick-size-do-i-need-818488.md):Determining the best wick size to use is topic that generates a lot of questions. There are a variety of factors that can impact the size of wick to use and change how a candle burns. Since there are many variables that can affect a candle’s burning characteristics, there is no single answer on which wick size will work properly without performing testing for each candle recipe. Changing just one of the items listed below may mean modifying the wick size as well.
Some of the main things that can determine the best wick size for your recipe are:
Wax used (paraffin, vegetable/soy, etc.)
Type and amount of dye used
Amount of fragrance oil used
Amount and types of additives added
Candle diameter
Because of the many factors that can impact the burning characteristics of a finished candle, the only way to determine the best wick size for each particular candle is through testing. Testing can be one of the challenging parts of candle making. However, if you keep detailed notes, it can become easier as you become more familiar with how well certain recipes work. We offer a wick guide to help with suggested starting points. However, there is no substitute for testing to determine the optimal wick size for each particular candle recipe.
While each candle maker may have their own preferred way of testing, one method we recommend is by pouring 3 to 5 candles that are all the same except for wick size. You can do this by choosing the wick size you think you may need and then also choosing the next size(s) up and down, which should give you an idea of what wick size works best after testing. For example, if you think you may need an ECO-8 for a particular candle recipe, you may also want to test an ECO-6 and an ECO-10. Once they have cured, you can then burn them next to each other to see which wick size burns the best compared to the others.
You can also use this method on multiple types of wicks to determine what wick type works best for a particular candle recipe. For example, you may pour 3 to 5 candles each for ECO, HTP, and Premier wicks and then test burn them next to each other to see which wick type and size works best. You can also place the different wick types in different rooms of comparable size and ventilation and test to see if one particular wick type provides a better scent throw than the others.
When testing, we recommend doing at least 3 test burns before making a final decision on which wick size or type to use. Each test burn should be around 2 to 3 hours (possibly shorter or longer depending on the candle diameter) to allow time for a full melt pool to form. For container candles, it is not uncommon to have ‘hang-up,’ or wax remaining on the side of the container, after the first or second burn, which ‘catches up’ on the third burn and beyond. This is why it is important to do at least 3 test burns before making a final decision on which wick size to go with.
If you sell or will be selling container candles to others, we strongly recommend test burning candles all the way down before deciding on a wick size. A candle’s burning characteristics can change as the candle burns further down into the container (especially for odd shaped containers).
Tips for choosing the right wick size:
The candle should achieve a full melt pool that is ¼” to ½” deep within 1 hour for each inch of diameter. For example, a 2” diameter candle should achieve a full melt pool within 2 hours.
The flame should be approximately ½” to 2” in height, with smaller candles being closer to ½” and larger candles going to as high as 2”.
The flame should not be producing excess smoke, soot, or mushrooming. The flame should also not flicker or dance around, but should be a still, steady flame.
Lower melt point paraffin waxes (such as single-pour waxes), vegetable/soy waxes, and beeswax are more viscous in nature and generally require a larger wick size than standard paraffin wax.
There is no set rule for when a double wick should be used. However, a general guideline is that candles with a diameter of 4" or larger may need a double wick (or triple if preferred). The reason for using a double wick in larger diameter candles is to achieve a full burn pool, which can be challenging with only a single wick. There are large wicks designed for wider diameter candles. However, we have found that larger wicks are more prone to mushrooming, soot, and smoke. For this reason, a double wick may be a better alternative.
The decision on when to use a double wick is more of a personal choice. We have known candle makers to use double wicks in smaller diameter candles and others that prefer a single wick in a larger diameter candle. Testing is the only way to determine which wick choice (single or double wicking) is best for a particular application and will achieve optimal burning characteristics.
Double wicking a candle is really not difficult. The challenging part is finding the right wick size to use for a double wick. As a general rule of thumb on how to select the right wick size when using double wicks, find a wick that is designed for half of the candle diameter and start testing with two of that size. For example, if making a 5" diameter candle that will have double wicks, you may begin testing with a wick size that is designed for a 2.5" diameter candle. Be sure they are centered, spaced out about 1" apart from each other, and not too close to the side of the glass if using containers. Placing the wicks close to the sides can cause the glass to get too hot. Please remember that testing is the only way to determine the best wick size for a particular candle recipe.
- [Can I Use Crayons to Color Candles?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/can-i-use-crayons-to-color-candles-818480.md):In order for your candles to achieve the most vibrant colors or pleasing pastels possible, a candle dye or candle colorant must be used. Using other forms of colorant may result in an nonfunctional candle.
Can you use crayons to color candles?
Although, staring at a beautiful stack of wonderfully vibrant crayons, we can understand why there would be an urge to use crayons as a colorant for candles. I mean, let's look at what a crayon is...a stick of colored wax, right? Logically, they should work. However, this is absolutely not the case.
You should never use crayons to color your candles. The reasoning behind this is the actual colorant of the crayon. These colors are achieved with the use of pigments, and pigments unfortunately are not soluble. What this means is that when a crayon is melted, the color of the crayon breaks down into small pigment particles that exist in a dispersed manner among the melted wax. These pigments appear as if they had changed the color of the wax; like candle dyes do because dyes dissolve into the candle wax, but remember the pigments are simply dispersed.
Now, due to the way that a wick works in candles, there must be a melt pool apparent to keep a candle flame going. As the wick continues to burn, the melted wax from the wet pool is pulled through the wick. This is how the fragrance (or hot scent throw) of the candle is released into the air. The problem that coloring with crayons in candles presents is that since the pigments and the wax never combine, the pigments are also pulled up through the wick. But, these pigments will not, unlike the melted wax, flow properly through the wick. These pigments will in fact clog your wick.
The results of a clogged wick prevent your candles from burning properly, inhibit your candles hot scent throw, and will even cause your candles to smoke.
So, in summary no matter how tempting that box of 64 crayons look, never use crayons to color your candles. You will want to stick with dyes specifically formulated for candle making; we offer liquid candle dyes and color block dyes in an array of vibrant colors.
- [How do I Color Candles?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-do-i-color-candles-818483.md):Hi everyone! Are you just starting out making your own candles? Wondering how to color candles? We actually have many wonderful products that are used specifically for the candle coloring process. We offer only the best candle coloring products out there, with each item having its own vibrant personality! We offer so many different dye products, each having their own different specifications when used in your candles. We have liquid candle dye options as well as color block dye. We even have mica dust that you can sprinkle on the outside of you pillar candles to give them the effect of sparkling!
For liquid candle dyes, we offer various Spectrum Liquid Candle Dyes ranging in color. The colors of liquid dyes we offer are brown, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, black, burgundy, purple, and teal. (However, when using these liquid dyes, please just note that they are very concentrated!) To use the liquid dyes, just put a few drops of the liquid into your melted wax. If you are in the mood for more of a pastel color (or if you are doing a very small batch) for your candle, all you have to do to the dye is dilute it using vegetable oil with the ratio of 1:1. Be careful with the amount of dye you use as well. When you use liquid dye, it allows you to create more consistent coloring in your candles since you count how any drops are put in. But be careful not use more than 10 drops per pound of wax, or else your candles may have a chemical smell to them.
For our color block dyes, the colors we offer are red, burgundy, yellow, blue, green, purple, brown, cinnamon, teal, cranberry, and a coral/peach. To use a color block to color your candle, simply shave off the desired amount and place it into your melted wax. One color block is actually enough to easily deeply dye 15 pounds of wax. When using color blocks, they actually do not produce colors as vibrant as the liquid dyes, so they are better when trying to attain more subtle colors. However, when using color blocks, make sure that the block is fully incorporated before pouring your candle! They can tend to produce little specks of colors on the bottoms of your candles if they are not fully melted and mixed into the wax.
Want to give your pillar some sparkle to bling it up a little bit? Use some of our Gold Pigment Mica or our Diamond Dust Mica to dust the outside of your pillars! This will give your pillars a beautiful shimmer!
Have you ever thoughts of using crayons to color your candles? Well, please don't! Using crayons for coloring can actually cause the candle to start smoking and may even clog your wicks! Crayons are not alone in this predicament.
WATCH OUT: When dying your candles, be sure not to use too much color as this can cause the wick to become clogged and it may cause your candle to smoke more than it should be. It can even inhibit the throw of your chosen scent and reduce the melt pool of the candle.
PLEASE NOTE: Candle dyes are not for cosmetic use either!
Check out all of our free recipes and classes, we offer many free candle recipes.
- [Can Candle Dyes Be Used In Skin Care Products?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/can-candle-dyes-be-used-in-skin-care-products-818495.md): No, unfortunately our dyes are oil based and not meant to be used in skin care products. There are other dye products on the market that are safe to use in coloring skin care products. - [What Color Will My Candle Be When it Cools?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-color-will-my-candle-be-when-it-cools-818496.md):Candles will have a different color once they have cooled versus the color of the wax when it is melted. Sometimes there can be dramatic differences.
To test and see how your candle is going to turn out once it has cooled, you can simply take a small sample of the melted wax (using a wooden spoon or other utensil) and place it on a paper towel or white sheet of paper. It should cool quickly and give you a good idea of what the candle will be in its final form. If you are not happy with the color in the sample, simply add more dye and repeat the process until you achieve your desired shade of color.
- [What Temperature Should I Add Dye to the Melted Wax?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-temperature-should-i-add-dye-to-the-melted-wax-818497.md): We recommend adding dye to melted wax in the range of 175° - 185°, especially if you are using dye chips or dye blocks. This helps to ensure the dye melts completely and has uniform dispersion throughout the wax. - [Can The Different Types Of Candle Dyes Be Blended Together?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/can-the-different-types-of-candle-dyes-be-blended-together-818498.md): Yes. All of our candle dyes can be mixed together to create unique and custom colors. However, we recommend taking detailed notes so that you are able to accurately recreate the specific color when mixing dyes. - [Why Do I Have Specks Of Dye In The Bottom Of My Candle?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/why-do-i-have-specks-of-dye-in-the-bottom-of-my-candle-818500.md): Specks of dye in the bottom of a candle is usually the result of dye chips or dye blocks that did not get fully melted and dispersed in the wax. When using dye chips or dye blocks and this is an issue, try adding them to the wax at a temperature around 175° - 185° and stir thoroughly for several minutes allowing the dye time to get fully dispersed in the wax. - [Does a Fragrance Oil Smell Different in Wax Compared to When it is in the Bottle?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/does-a-fragrance-oil-smell-different-in-wax-compared-to-when-it-is-in-the-bottle-818491.md): Yes, fragrance oils can smell very different in a finished candle than they do out of the bottle. Fragrance oils are more concentrated when they are in the bottle and become less concentrated as they are diluted in wax, thus altering the original concentrated smell. Some fragrance oils may lose their strength altogether when placed in wax and become diluted. However, our quality concentrated fragrance oils retain their strength in finished candles due to the low amount of solvent used. - [How Much Fragrance Oil Do I Use When Making Candles?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-much-fragrance-oil-do-i-use-when-making-candles-818492.md):We recommend using our fragrance oils at 1 oz. per pound, or about a 6% fragrance load. While some waxes can hold up to 2 oz. of fragrance per pound, we would not recommend using that much due to the high concentration of our fragrance oils. There are weaker fragrance oils on the market that are diluted with solvent and may take up to 2 oz. per pound to achieve a desired scent throw preference. However, the more additives, dye, and fragrance added to wax, the greater the chance of having issues with soot, smoke, and/or poor burning characteristics. Also, adding more fragrance oil does not necessarily mean it will improve the scent throw in candles. There is a point where adding more fragrance oil will add little or no additional scent throw.
For skin care product usage amounts, please see the IFRA information for each particular fragrance. Each fragrance has this information posted below the fragrance description on the fragrance product page.
- [What Does The Maximum Fragrance Load Or Fragrance % Of A Wax Mean?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-does-the-maximum-fragrance-load-or-fragrance-of-a-wax-mean-818493.md):The ‘fragrance load’ or fragrance % is the manufacturers recommended maximum amount of fragrance that a particular wax can retain.
For example, if you are making a 16 oz. candle with a wax that has a maximum 10% fragrance load, you could add up to 1.6 oz. (16 oz. * 10% = 1.6 oz.) of fragrance for that particular wax. While it is possible to add more fragrance than the manufacturers recommendation, this can lead to poor burning characteristics and/or the fragrance ‘seeping’ from the candle creating the appearance of sweating.
Many waxes available are pre-blended or contain additives enabling them to retain higher fragrance loads of up to 12%. There are certain waxes, such as straight paraffin wax, that have a lower maximum fragrance load of around 3% without the use of additional additives such as Vybar.
We recommend beginning testing by using 1 oz. of fragrance to 1 lb. of wax. This equates to a fragrance load of approximately 6.3%.
When calculating the fragrance load, always measure by weight, not by volume (i.e. fluid ounces).
- [How Can I Get A Strong Scent Throw?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-can-i-get-a-strong-scent-throw-818494.md):This is a subject that we receive a lot of questions on. There are many factors that can affect the scent throw in finished candles. Below is a list of some of the variables that can impact scent throw:
Type of Wax Used - Fragrance oils, even those of high quality, can perform very different based on the type of wax used. Some fragrance oils, no matter how much trial and error, just will not blend with certain types of waxes. Soy waxes are known to be more ‘picky’ about the fragrance oils that work well in them. As a general rule, paraffin waxes still provide better scent throw than soy waxes.
Fragrance Oil Brand - Some fragrance oils are manufactured stronger than others using more natural ingredients and lower amounts of solvent, which tones down the fragrance strength.
Fragrance Notes - Not all fragrance oils are meant to have overpowering strength. Some of them are designed to provide a soft, subtle scent.
Amount of Fragrance Oil Used - Using too little fragrance oil will lead to a candle with very little scent throw. We recommend using our fragrance oils at 1 oz. per pound for optimal scent throw. There are fragrance oils on the market which are manufactured at lower strength levels and may require up to 1.5 to 2 oz. of fragrance per pound. Also, using too much fragrance oil does not necessarily mean it will increase the scent throw in a finished candle. Adding too much fragrance oil can lead to impaired burning characteristics.
Temperature at Which the Fragrance Was Added - Adding fragrance oil add too high of a temperature may cause it to dissipate, or burn off, in the melted wax. Adding fragrance oil at too low of a temperature may prevent the fragrance oil from disbursing and binding uniformly in the melted wax. We recommend adding fragrance oil around 180° - 185°, which we have found to be a good temperature that is not too hot or too cool.
Additives Used - The use of additives, such as vybar, can enable wax to retain higher fragrance loads. However, many waxes on the market today come pre-blended and already contain additives. They are able to retain fragrance loads of 8% - 12% and the use of additives is generally not needed as this is sufficient fragrance retention. There are certain waxes, such as straight paraffin wax, where additives can aid the wax in holding higher amounts of fragrance oil.
Proper Wick Selection/Size - Having the right wick size to achieve the proper burn pool can help with the scent throw. Too small of a wick will create a small burn pool, which will lead to poor scent throw. Too large of a wick may burn too hot and actually burn off the fragrance, which also can lead to poor scent throw. Finding a wick that has a nice steady flame and creates a full burn pool of approximately 1/4" to 1/2" deep can help with achieving good scent throw.
Time Allowed for Curing - While there are many schools of thought on this, we have found the following to produce the best results:
| 1.) Use More Water The more water used in a cold process soap recipe, the slower the time it takes soap batter to reach trace. Since a fast moving fragrance increases trace, we can balance this by using more water. A lye concentration of 25%-33% is recommended. |
| 2.) Limit Other Accelerating Ingredients Solid oils will give you a harder bar of soap but a faster trace, while liquid oils will give you a softer bar but will slow down trace. Using too much butter in a recipe can also speed things up. You should also be cautious when using beer, honey, or milk as a water replacement. Even clay can accelerate trace, especially when added dry. Try mixing it with a little water or oil before adding it to your soap batter to avoid this acceleration. |
| 3.) Soap At Room Temperature The cooler the temperature, the slower the time it takes soap batter to reach trace. Since a fast moving fragrance increases trace, we can balance this by allowing the oils and butters and lye solution to reach room temperature before mixing them together. |
| 4.) Hand Mix Fragrance Oil Stick blending accelerates trace, which is why it was been become such a popular tool in soap making! However, if you need to slow down acceleration, it can become your enemy. The solution is simple. Stick blend the oils and lye solution to light trace, and then hand stir the fragrance oil into the soap batter. This prevents you from over-mixing and ending up with a super thick trace by accident. |
- [Soaping at Cool Temperatures v/s Hot Temperatures](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/soaping-at-cool-temperatures-v-s-hot-temperatures-809975.md):
| When to Keep Soaping Temps Cool (100-110 ° F) | When to keep Soaping Temps Hot (131-160 ° F) |
| You want to prevent gel phase | You want to promote gel phase |
| You are making soap with alternative liquids (milk, juice, tea, etc) instead of water | You want to prevent soda ash |
| You want to prevent glycerin rivers | To help soap saponify quicker |
| When working with a fragrance oil that heats up or speeds up trace | You are working with beeswax in your soap batter |
| Your room temperature is hot |
- [Coloring CP Soap](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/coloring-cp-soap-809976.md):
It is highly recommended that you only use FDA approved cosmetic color additives in soap and cosmetics. Soap has an exemption from the FDA color additive rule, but that does not mean you can use anything to color your soap. Soap, meeting this definition and exemption, falls under the Consumer Product Safety Commission rules. In the event of a problem, the CPSC will likely say that the FDA has established safety guidelines for color additives in skincare products. It has been implied, and frankly it makes sense, that the CPSC allows GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) products to produce color. An example of GRAS color would be cocoa powder. Fabric dye does not fall into that category. Blue tends to be by far the most pH sensitive of the colorants, and botanical's which produce shades of blue (such as alkanet root) tend to be quite pH sensitive as well. Other botanical's are more predictable -you might want to experiment with annatto seed, turmeric and calendula petals to produce shades of yellow and orange, liquid chlorophyll to produce shades of green, unsweetened cocoa for brown, madder root for pink/red, paprika for peach, and saffron for a beautiful bright yellow. We need to check individual color for CP stable (does it change or morph) and migration(does it bleed into another area).
Usage Rates
If your colors aren’t as bright as you like, your recipe may just need a bit more color! There is no definitive usage rate for colors in soap. How much you add depends on a number of factors, including the type of colorant and the recipe used.
In cold process soap, we recommend mixing at a rate of 1 teaspoon of color to 1 tablespoon of a lightweight oil, like sweet almond oil. Larger batches may need to mix 2 teaspoons of the colorant into 2 tablespoons of oil, or 3 teaspoons into 3 tablespoons.
Mix colorant with a little warm oil. Mix ½ -¾ tsp in 2-3 Tbsp of oil. Add after oil and lye water are completely incorporated. Soap bubbles should be white in colored soap. If not, too much color has been added.
Dyes/Water Soluble Liquid Colorants
Dyes (Stained Glass) are water-based colors. They are not suitable for CP soap. They are bright and vibrant in MP soap. They will always migrate in MP soap. They are the only color that allows a clear bar of soap to stay clear.
Bath Bomb Lakes
Ultramarine
Titanium Dioxides
Naturals
Neon's
EZ Colors/ Body Safe Gel Colors
Morphing
High pH during soap making can cause color changes or morphing.
Videos & Color Techniques
- [Anchoring Fragrances in CP Soap](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/anchoring-fragrances-in-cp-soap-809977.md): Why Anchor Fragrances?
on a napkin when talking to another chemist. Each vertex in the formula represents a carbon atom. Hydrogen atoms are inferred from the number of carbon atoms, and oxygen atoms are shown explicitly. You don't need to understand all the nuances, but it should be evident that the molecule has four parts. At the upper left is an OH group, which is similar to water (H²O), and makes vanillin soluble in water and alcohol. At the lower left is a methoxy group. In the middle is a hexagonal ring of 6 carbon atoms, variously referred to as a benzene ring, or an “aromatic” ring. And at the lower right is a carbon atom double-bonded to an oxygen atom, a group known to chemists as an aldehyde group.The gel phase is a sometimes-present part of the saponification process where soap gets extremely hot and takes on a gelatinous consistency. This stage is not a necessary step in the creation of soap. Still, it is a necessary process for soapers to understand if they hope to control the aesthetic result of their soap.
Heat is a catalyst of saponification – heat causes saponification, it does not prevent it. Gelled and partially gelled soaps are safe for use.
Gelling is an easy (and the only) way to achieve certain aesthetic characteristics. Why embrace the heat?
Low surface area + good all-around airflow + cool temperatures + water discount = NO GEL
Thick loaves + insulation + high temperatures + “full water” = GEL
Excessive heat during the saponification causes the central area in the soap to be darker and more translucent than the soap’s outer edges. This means the soap cooled before the gel phase reached the edges of the mold.
https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/handmade101/learn-to-make-articles/to-gel-or-not-to-gel.aspx
- [Fragrance Oil Testing in Cold Process Soap](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/fragrance-oil-testing-in-cold-process-soap-809994.md): Fragrance oils can drastically change the outcome of cold process soap recipes. Fragrance oils may quicken trace, cause an uneven texture, cause separation or discolor the soap. Fortunately, soap suppliers provide performance results for cold process soap.
- [Cold Process Soap Additive](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/cold-process-soap-additive-809995.md):
Why is honey used in soap?
Honey contains antioxidants and is thought to be beneficial to the skin. For both of these reasons, honey adds marketing appeal. “Honey soap” is associated with natural products and attracts a natural-conscience buyer. The natural sugar in honey also increases the lather in soap, making it desirable for people who love a bubbly lather!
What are the challenges with adding honey to soap?
Honey makes soap hot. If soap gets too hot, heat tunnels can form in the soap creating holes in a sliced bar of soap. Also, the top of the soap may develop a wavy texture to it that may crack. If it gets hot enough, the soap may explode out of the mold.
For these reasons, adding real honey to soap is an advanced soapmaking technique and special considerations are needed for the recipe.
What are special considerations to overcome these challenges?
In general, a honey soap recipe should be formulated to stay cool to compensate for the heat caused by honey.
~Choose a well-behaved fragrance oil; one that will not accelerate, rice or separate.
~Avoid forcing gel with heating pads, insulation or a hot room. The soap will naturally become hot and these heating methods may cause a soap volcano.
~If soap is molded in single cavity molds, it is less likely to overheat. If soap is in a loaf, it is more likely to overheat.
~Placing honey soap in the refrigerator or freezer may be necessary as the soap saponifies, especially if a large mold is used.
How is honey added to soap?
Honey if often added at light trace. It can be added straight into the soap batter or diluted in warm water. The dilution helps the honey mix into the soap and makes it easier to pour. Honey may also be added to the melted oils/butters, but this can be challenging because honey is water-soluble. The honey will naturally want to separate out of the oils. Another option is to add the honey to the cooled lye water. The honey will mix in nicely, but the lye may heat the honey and the sugars may start to caramelize. Honey is also available in powdered form which can be more easily added during any of the previously mentioned steps.
How much honey is typically used in soap?
Honey is often used at one to three teaspoons per pound of oils.
Why is beeswax used in soap?
Beeswax makes for a harder bar of soap, as well as adds label and market appeal to soap bars. The terms ‘natural beeswax,’ ‘honey bees’ and ‘honeycombs’ produce a positive and natural image for most consumers. If you are marketing towards nature-loving individuals, beeswax might be the buzz word you need! Also, the harder soap bar lasts longer in the shower. One of the common gripes from commercial soap bar users with handmade soap is how quickly it dissolves in the shower. Beeswax helps the bar stay hard and last longer, which appeals to people transitioning from commercial soap to handmade soap.
What are the challenges with adding beeswax to soap?
Beeswax accelerates trace and can leave chunks of hard wax in soap. Since beeswax has a high melt, it will harden quickly, which accelerates trace. This means the soap batter will quickly turn from liquid to solid as it is mixed and poured. You may also experience false trace, where the soap batter is thick, but the soap has not emulsified. If the beeswax is not fully melted or if the soaping temperature is too cool, the beeswax may harden too early creating noticeable pieces of beeswax in the finished soap.
What are special considerations to overcome these challenges?
A slow-moving recipe helps compensate for the accelerated trace and a warm soap temperature keeps the beeswax liquid. To create a slow-moving recipe, use a full water amount, a slow-moving fragrance and a healthy ratio of slow-moving liquid oils. A full water amount means using the default ‘38% water as % of oils’ when formulating with the lye calculator. A slow-moving fragrance can be found by reading reviews on fragrances or by checking with the manufacturer for cold process soap performance. Finally, consider the oils and butters in the soap recipe. In general, liquid oils move slow and semi-solid oils move quickly. A warm soap temperature means that the oils and beeswax are heated hot enough to fully melt the beeswax and then when soaping, hot enough to keep the beeswax liquid until emulsification.
How is beeswax added to soap?
Beeswax is often melted together with the carrier oils at a temperature of at least 140ºF. It is important that the beeswax is fully melted. Next, butters are added to the hot oil/beeswax until they are liquid. When the temperature of the mixture is at 120ºF, and not any cooler, the oil mixture is combined with the lye solution.
How much beeswax is typically used in soap?
Beeswax is often used at one to three percent of the oils. Some of the beeswax will saponify and should be included with your oils when calculating with a lye calculator.
This cold process soap was made with heavy whipping cream. These bars have a very luxurious, creamy, lather and is super nourishing for your skin.
In todays market, some of the most popular cold process soap recipes are the ones that involve dairy products such as milks, creams, and yogurts. The reasoning behind this popularity is the fact that cold process soap recipes that use dairy products actually result in finished bars that are very creamy, luscious, soothing, and moisturizing. In fact, milk itself is a gentle exfoliant- a perfect remedy for any sensitive skin types. This is because milk contains lactic acid, which slightly reduces the alkalinity of soap.
When it comes down to making the cold process soap recipe, dairy products can be added (if applicable) in 3 forms:
1. Fresh (can be added as water for the lye solution, part of the water for lye solution, added to your room temperature oils before the lye solution, or added at light trace.)
2. Powdered (combined with a small amount of oil or water to make a liquid- then added at light trace and hand whisked in until incorporated.)
3. Canned (used as half the water amount of the water ratio. This is usually added to oils before the lye solution to make the soap batter.)
With the exception of the powdered, both the fresh and canned are commonly used in a frozen or slushy (almost frozen) state. This is done for two reasons. The first is to help control the lye solution temperature and the second is to help prevent the dairy product from burning. Burnt dairy products have a very distinct smell and will turn your soap batter a bright orangish color. This is due to the heated lye solution caramelizing the sugars in the milk. A great step to help minimize this reaction is to give the container you are mixing your lye solution in an ice bath. The other option that you have is to add the frozen/slushy dairy product at trace, allowing the batter to thaw the frozen like diary product. Then, blend well with a stick blender to incorporate.
Temperature is everything.
One of the most important things to realize when working with dairy products is their sensitivity to heat. This comes into play if you are mixing all or some of the dairy product to make the lye solution (which heats as the reaction is taking place.) Dairy products will burn and/or curdle if not combined correctly. The best way to combat this is to closely monitor the temperature of the lye solution using a thermometer. You never want the temperature to go above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The other tip to help control the heat of the lye solution is to take your time when adding the lye. Sprinkle in small amounts and stir. The key is to wait a few minutes in between the next small addition of lye again. Do not be afraid to truly take your time with this step. A good time gauge to set for yourself is 10-15 minutes to add all of the lye to the lye solution. This will help control the overall temperature of the lye solution.
There is no set rule as to how much of the dairy product to use as the water portion of the lye solution. Some soapers prefer to use the dairy as the full water portion. Others play it safe by using a 50% ratio (half milk and half water.) This works by making a super concentrated lye solution (the full amount of lye the recipe calls for; then split the water amount in half. Mix the lye into the water. Let cool. Add the rest of the unused water portion as the milk- which is added to the room temperature oils before the lye solution is added to make the batter. The last option is the dairy product at 25% of the water ratio. This is done the same way as the 50% ratio, only it is 25% of the total water amount.
The rest of the soaping recipe is done normally.
Other things to consider:
Superfatting may be affected. Do not forget to figure in the fat percentage of the dairy product. For the most part, general milk products (where the fat percentage is 4-6%), really won t affect your end bar. However, using a product like heavy whipping cream (which has a fat of 36%) will directly affect your end bar. In this instance, you may what to use the dairy portion of 25% of your water ratio. That is unless you play with your superfatting percentage number.
Rancidity of your soap is always a possibility when using larger portions of dairy products in your recipe; especially those that have high fat content.
Our Findings:
Recently, we tried our hand at making cold process soap with the addition of heavy whipping cream. For our recipe, we selected the cream to be 25% of our water ratio since we did not want to majorly superfat our soap. The frozen heavy whipping cream was added to our soaping oils/butter before the lye solution. We found that this method worked perfectly. We had no issues with the remaining soap procedures.
In the end, the bars that resulted were exactly as we imagined- pure creamy bliss! And, with all of the wonderful nourishing benefits that dairy products have; our skin loved it too.
- [Can I add Water to Lye?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/can-i-add-water-to-lye-810003.md):
Caustic Soda or lye is a necessary ingredient in the soap making process. However, it is this same ingredient that prevents most people from attempting cold process soap making. Most lye solutions consist of lye and distilled water. When making the lye solution there are a few key tips you want to remember.
They are:
Wear your safety gear: safety goggles, mask, long sleeve shirts, pants, and gloves.
Always mix your lye solution in a well ventilated area (open windows, outside, garage, turn on the exhaust fan).
NEVER use glass or aluminum items for your soap making mixing containers or utensils. Glass can break, and aluminum does not play nicely with lye. It will cause a toxic, chemical reaction.
Lye is extremely caustic and can do severe damage. When water and lye are mixed together this is known as a lye solution. This mixing will also cause an exothermic reaction, this means that heat is given off as a byproduct of the chemical reaction occurring. Once the lye and water are stirred to make the lye solution, lye solution will become very hot, sometimes reaching 200 degrees.
When you are ready to make the lye solution, ALWAYS pour the lye into the water. One of the best tips that we have found to remember the order is to envision a light snow falling into a pond.
When incorporating the two ingredients together you want to do it in a slow manner. You must sprinkle the lye in small doses into the water. In between each sprinkle, you will want to stir, stir, and stir. The lye mixture will become cloudy, and may give off fumes. Do not inhale these fumes. They are extremely hazardous.
NEVER POUR WATER INTO LYE!!! And NEVER ADD TOO MUCH LYE TOO FAST!!! Doing either one of these things will create a violent reaction known as a volcano effect. This happens because the water starts to dissolve the lye, forming a crust. This crust then seals in the chemical reaction occurring beneath it. The reaction can only handle being restrained from its own crust before the build-up of pressure and heat creates a burst or eruption. Hence the term- volcano effect.
If a volcano effect does occur, immediately spray your work area with vinegar. Vinegar will neutralize the caustic lye. Proceed by washing the area down with hot soapy water. Rinse area, and wash again with hot soapy water. Use paper towels to dry area.
So, to sum up this lesson in soap making: NEVER POUR WATER ONTO LYE....YOU WILL CREATE A LYE VOLCANO!!!! Create your lye solution by adding small amounts of lye to water and stir.
- [How do I use Castor Oil in Soap?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-do-i-use-castor-oil-in-soap-810004.md):There are a lot of different oils available that you can use to add to your soap recipe. Soap contains fatty acids which these oils make up. One oil that stands out is Castor Oil, and I'm going to explain how to use castor oil in soap. Castor Oil is commonly used in cold process soaps to give it a very lathery feel, and is all around a wonderful product to use. You aren't only limited to soaps though, castor oil can be used in different cosmetic skin oils, bath products, lip products, and many other different products. Explained below are a lot of different benefits you can get out of castor oil, and some of our recipes that we've created using it.
Castor Oil Usage Rates in Cold Process Soap
The basic foundation of making any type of soap is mixing fatty acids, lye, and water. For cold process soaps, or any soap in general, NaOH is the preferred lye compound to use. Castor oil is used in the category of fatty acids, as it is made up of three different acids. The fatty acids are identified below with their percentage amount used in the castor oil composition. It is recommended that 5%-8% of castor oil is used in any cold process or hot process soap recipe. Using anywhere above 10% is known to make your soap really stick and unappealing to use. Also, to saponify one gram of Castor Oil, you need to add .128-.180mg of NaOH for cold processed soap. Castor oil is also known to have a shelf life of one year after opening.
Ricinoleic - 90%
Oleic - 4%
Linoleic - 4%
Properties of Castor Oil
There are many unique properties associated with castor oil that make it a great oil choice to use in cold process soap. Castor Oil is a humectant, which means that it attracts moisture to your skin. Due to this property, it's great to use in cold process soap, because it'll allow you to retain moisture when using. You can also add castor oil to lip balms and massage oils to create a silky glide. The silky glide will make applying the product way easier. On top of its moisturizing qualities, this oil is also known to provide hair growth stimulation as well. Just add the oil to any of our soap or conditioner recipes to see it's full effects. Adding this oil to cold process soap will also make it more conditioning, thus allowing your hands to be softer after use.
Benefits of Using Castor Oil
There are many benefits to using castor oil in any of our recipes. This oil is a thicker oil, so any product that it's used in will be an excellent moisturizer. There are also a lot of natural fatty acids that make up this oil. This makes the oil great for use with the skin. Castor oil will not only moisturize you, but will nourish your skin as well. When used in lotions and body butters, this oil is also known to make your skin appear more youthful. This oil can also be used in cosmetics, like for example in mascara. When used in mascara, castor oil is believed to be contributed to growing darker, more full eyebrows over time. When applied directly to the skin, this oil is also known to be antibacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory.
- [Melt & Pour Soap- Common Terminology](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/melt-pour-soap-common-terminology-809984.md):
- [Troubleshooting: Common Issues With Cold Process Soap](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/troubleshooting-common-issues-with-cold-process-soap-809992.md):
beet juice, etc.) produce unpredictable shades which can even vary from batch to batch of the same soap making recipe. Synthetic colorants (like FD&C colorants) are not used because the colorant contains ingredients such as Ferric Ferrocyanide which, in high pH levels will turn the colors brown. Blues, greens and purple tends to be by far the most pH sensitive of the colorants.
When unmolding your soap there is the potential of pieces of your soap sticking to your mold. This can be due to a recipe miscalculation or possibly the environment in which your soap has cured. Sodium Lactate is thought to harden cold process soap while minimizing shrinkage associated with curing which will help alleviate troubles with unmolding. Another quick and easy way to unmold your loaf is to pop it in the freezer for 15 minute spurts to allow for easier removal from the mold.With such a variety of soaping bases, fats, and oils available in the market, one can easily see where the excitement can collide with frustration, especially if you are new to soaping. We strive for a perfect recipe, but where to begin, the possibilities are endless. From this soap making blog series, we have already gone over the different types of soaping processes, soap safety, and soaping terminology. Now, we seek out creating the perfect soaping recipe.
Soap is made by the chemical reaction that occurs when mixing fatty acids, lye, and water. The lye component actually works as an emulsifier, bonding the fatty oils and water together. Without the lye, this bond would never form. These 3 elements, fatty acids, lye, and water are all essential components to the saponification process.
Each soaping oil/butter has a fatty acid composition, and since every oil/butter is different, so is their fatty acid composition. It is through the variance of each fatty acid composition that important soaping characteristics and qualities are found. Let s briefly look at some of the most common fatty acids, as well as, the qualities that are provided by them in a cured bar of soap.
Lauric Acid: Provides hardness, cleansing, and bubbly lather.
Linoleic Acid: Provides conditioning
Myristic Acid: Provides hardness, cleansing, and bubbly lather.
Oleic Acid: Provides conditioning
Palmitic Acid: Provides hardness and a creamy lather
Ricinoleic Acid: Provides conditioning, bubbly lather, and a creamy lather.
Stearic Acid: Provides hardness and a creamy lather.
As you can see, each and every element that is put into your soaping recipe has distinct benefits or uses, and some ingredients can also inhibit certain soap bar qualities. Please also notice, that none of the fatty acids allow for all five of the soaping qualities that you are looking for in a bar of soap. This is why; in order to find a good symmetry among these qualities, a soaping recipe usually contains several different oils (fatty acids).
In order to create a quality bar of soap, it is necessary to find a balance between hardness, cleansing, conditioning, bubbly lather, and creamy lather. This usually involves using a combination of oils/butters in your soap recipe. A typical bar soap recipe calls for 38% water content, and a 5% superfat (the percentage of oils that do not saponifiy).
Here are the values for a typical bar of soap; they are presented in a range:
Hardness
29 to 54
Cleansing
12 to 22
Conditioning
44 to 69
Bubbly lather
14 to 46
Creamy lather
16 to 48
There is however, one example of a soap recipe that can be done with just one oil. For people who are allergic to nuts, olive oil soap can be made with just that olive oil. No allergen worries. Once this bar has cured though, you have a nice conditioning soap bar that will not leave your hands dry, but, that same soap bar also will not produce a nice lather, and will be very limited in cleansing ability. This is why being aware of all of the capabilities of your oils, fats, butters, and additives will give you a distinct advantage over other soap bars in the market.
Remember, since all oils have their own fatty acid makeup, they also have specific saponification or SAP values. This is why it is extremely important that once the ingredients of your soaping recipe are calculated, you MUST use those oils. They cannot be exchanged out for other soaping oils without recalculating your recipe.
Feeling overwhelmed yet? Don t! We know that this is a lot of information to grasp. This is why if you are new to soaping, it is our suggestion that you try a recipe that has already been tried and tested. Doing this will allow you to initiate yourself with the soaping instruction and procedure. Performing the steps from beginning to end will also give you a firsthand experience of the soaping method and key properties of the saponification process like trace or gel phase.
Congratulations Newbies! Now is the time where we are actually going to make our first batch together.
Working with lye can be very dangerous!
We have already went slightly ahead, and provided you below a recipe for your 1st time soaping.
Here is what you will need for a 2 pound batch:
6 ounces of Coconut Oil, 76 degree
8.4 ounces of Olive Oil Pomace
8.4 ounces Palm Oil
1.2 ounces of Castor Oil
1.5 ounces of a body safe fragrance oil
9.12 ounces of Distilled Water
3.393 ounces of lye (NaOH)
This recipe range for soap bar quality is:
Hardness
43
Cleansing
17
Conditioning
54
Bubbly lather
22
Creamy lather
31
As you will notice all of the qualities fall within the suggested range nicely. This soap recipe will give you a balanced overall bar of soap.
- [What is Trace in Soap Making?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-is-trace-in-soap-making-809999.md):What is trace? Baby, don't blend me; don't stir me, just pour. Trace is when you've reached emulsion- your oils are blended with your lye mixture and are no longer capable of separating. How can you tell when your mixture is at trace? The easiest way is to use your stirring utensil: hold it a few inches above your mixing container and move it back and forth. If the soap batter dripping off the stirring utensil leaves little lines that sit on top of the mixture in the bowl- that's trace. It can be difficult to capture in photographs, but you'll know it when you see it in motion.
So I reach trace and that's it? Well, yes and no. There are different degrees of trace, but the important thing to remember is that once a mixture has reached trace- it s only going to continue to solidify from there. Light trace is considered the bare minimum. Light trace is helpful when you're looking to make swirls or other designs that require easily pourable, almost-liquid soap. Moderate trace is in the middle and means you're ready to pour your soap into the mold. Heavy trace is when your soap gets thick. The picture above shows heavy trace. A soap batter at heavy trace is resistant to change shape and almost impossible to pour into a mold. Heavy trace may result in the need to scoop your soap into the mold, seen in the photo on the left. Not a pretty sight. Work quickly to ensure the soap does not set before you are ready.
What Causes Different Levels of Trace?
Trace can be affected both by your ingredients and your blending method.
Ingredients:
'Hard' oils, including palm oil and coconut oil, and butters will reach trace much faster. Using softer oils such as olive oil or canola will decrease the speed of trace, but your end product soap will be much softer. Increasing the amount of oil to superfat your recipe will also slow down trace. (Be careful not to add too much or you'll have an excess of unreacted oils.)
In addition, fragrance oils can accelerate trace. (Check out our CP Soap Testing results to see how our fragrance oils perform in the CP soaping process.)
Inversely, the more water you use, the slower your soap will reach trace. A water discount (using less water than the recipe called for) will accelerate trace and is recommended for only advanced soapers when they see fit.
Blending:
The speed at which you blend can accelerate trace. Using a stick blender as opposed to stirring manually with a spatula will increase the speed of the reaction and trace will be reached faster. If you suspect that the mixture will accelerate, stir it manually to slow the rate of trace.
Furthermore, the temperature at which you blend your ingredients will affect trace. Higher temperatures accelerate trace. If you wish to slow down trace, let your lye mixture cool down to about 100 degrees Fahrenheit before you add it to your oils.
The order also matters. If the fragrance oil you're using is known to have a tendency to accelerate trace, be sure to add it last, after you've made your soap mixture and added any colorant, and be ready to move.
False Trace
All this talk about trace and the need to rush your soap process may have you running around like a chicken with its head cut off- but BEWARE FALSE TRACE. False trace usually occurs when oils in your mixture begin to cool down and solidify without going through emulsion or saponification. So, much like Goldilocks, you don't want your mixture to be too hot or too cold, but juuuuust right.
Ahhh!
I know it seems like a lot- but if you pay attention to the factors listed here- you should be alright. Remember to have all of your ingredients ready before you start soaping (always, but especially) in case of any unexpected trace acceleration. You can do this, I promise. And if something goes wrong, you can always melt down your soap and try again. Thanks for reading and happy soaping!
- [Why Should I Rebatch?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/why-should-i-rebatch-810001.md):Rebatching your soap can literally be a saving redo for your soap recipe.
Sometimes your homemade soap bars are cracked, brittle, or just not performing like what you were hoping for.
These are all perfect examples as to why you would rebatch your recipe. But, it just doesn t stop there.
Soapers rebatch a soap recipe for a variety of reasons. Below is a list of the benefits and key points you should know about rebatching a soap recipe. Rebatching soap is essentially making the soap twice. The first time you are completing the saponification process. (Or, you may be using soap that has already been through the saponification process.) Then, the second time you grate down the soap and melt it (for the reason you are rebatching).
Benefits of a Rebatch
Rebatching a soap recipe for the addition of heat sensitive ingredients:
Sometimes with homemade soap crafting, there are certain fragrances or essential oils that you really want to scent your soap bars; but worry that the scents cannot handle the high heat due to the saponification process. Many times with low flash point fragrances or essential oils, there is scent burn off. What results in your finished bars is soap that has little or no scent. Rebatching soap will not only safely allow you to add these heat sensitive scents, but allow them to stay true to their scent (less burn off).
Also, some fragrance oils may cause cold process soap to seize (turning your soap into a solid mass with no fluidity). If you have your heart set on using one of these fragrances in your soap recipe, it can be done through the process of rebatching; without seizing your batch. Usually fragrance oils that seize your soap contain DPG. None of the fragrance oils we carry at Natures Garden contain DPG.
When it comes to coloring for cold process soap, it is very important to select ones that do not morph. Through the process of rebatching, you do not need to worry about pH sensitive colorants. And, sometimes this is just the answer to achieve that certain color. With rebatch soap, the soap base that you are using has already completed the saponification process; therefore, the colorants that normally would discolor will not. This is true for herbs that are used as natural soap colorants as well. Although it should be stated that some herbs naturally discolor due to oxidation.
Herbs not only offer color, but also wonderful and various benefits to your finished bars of soap. The only problem is they can directly affect your soaping procedure. Many herbs can speed up trace. Even more so, some herbs cannot survive the saponification process and will discolor as a result. With rebatching, this is not as big of an issue. Herbs like lavender flowers, for example, can be added without worrying that those beautiful flowers will turn brown.
Rebatch Opportunity
Rebatching allows for perfection:
Rebatching is also a wonderful method to use to correct a soap recipe. Things can get a little chaotic when soaping, and it could be possible that you overlooked adding one of your soaping ingredients and did not realize it until after the soap was molded. This resulted in your finished bars being too lye heavy. A rebatch allows you the perfect opportunity to add that missing ingredient and balance out your soap. This opportunity also allows for superfatting a recipe after saponification; or correcting soap bars that are too soft (made with too many fats or soft oils).
It is possible too that while making soap, your batter becomes too thick too quick for the addition of color or scent. With rebatch, the soap can be scented and colored like you never missed a beat.
Rebatch can also help correct a false trace recipe.
Rebatch, a Second Chance for Soaps
Sometimes, as a soaper, you will have pounds of soap scraps that you have on hand. Rebatching the soap lets you make loaves (and bars) of them once more. And will clear out all of that soaping space.
Points to Know about Rebatch
Some soapers love to rebatch soap, others rebatch only when necessary, and some soapers just do not like to rebatch. What ever your stance is on rebatch, it is a method that allows for many otherwise missed opportunities. Here are some key points to know about rebatch.
When making soap that is a rebatch, it will never completely liquefy. Even after spending hours in the crock pot, or on the stove top (with the double boiler method), the best you will ever achieve is more of a thick gel like state. Sometimes the soap may even be globby like. This does not affect the soap being soap, but it will affect the finished look of your bars.
When it comes to molding your rebatch soap, it is highly likely to get trapped air bubbles. This is just the nature of the thick gel like globby beast. It is extremely important to tap your mold as your fill it to prevent these pesky little buggers from being a problem in your finished soap bars. You may also notice that it may be slightly more difficult to mold your soap while in this state. This will be especially true if you are used to pouring it (like cold process soap batter). With rebatch soap, you will need a ladle and scoop the rebatch soap into your mold.
For the finished bars of rebatch soap, they will look very similar to hot process soap bars. They have a very rustic look to them, and will not have the traditional smooth and creamy look that cold process has.
On a final note, rebatching soap is truly a labor of love. There will be lots of TLC (because of the time put in) and additional work to do this method. But, if you are willing to put in the extra effort in (grating the soap), you will be able to rebatch your soap and have the end results that you are looking to achieve.
- [How do I Rebatch?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-do-i-rebatch-810005.md):Sometimes it is a hard pill to swallow, but when it comes to soaping, mistakes will be made, tears will fall, and you learn from your errors!
This week, we had a slight oversight.
All of our soaping ingredients were weighed out and ready for the combination and melt down. We had the lye and water ready to make the lye mixture. Everything else was prepped and ready to go.
We put on our safety gear and started the soap making procedure. Everything seemed to be going flawlessly. Our scent was perfect, the color combination was the spot on, and the soap batter poured beautifully into the mold. It was soaping bliss.
Then, we started cleaning up. That was when we found the sunflower oil. It was still in its dish, waiting to be added to the soap recipe. And, it was about 5% of our total soaping oils no less.
Devastated, it was now time to play the waiting game. We had to wait for our beautiful soap to mold for at least 24 hours before it would be sturdy enough to remove it.
What resulted, after unmolding, was a gorgeous shade of green soap that broke into pieces when sliced. Our soap was too lye heavy. And, we knew this was because of the forgotten and overlooked sunflower oil.
One way to correct this soaping error was through rebatching. Rebatching is almost like a do over for soap. Although there are various reasons as to why you would rebatch, one of them is the fact that you can add an oil to your soap. Our soaping oversight would be a perfect example to rebatch.
So, in order to save the 4 pound soap batch we had, we decided that we would take this opportunity to learn about rebatching and write a blog post on how to rebatch. Although it was the very first time we ever attempted a rebatch, here is the process we did to show how to rebatch soap (pictures included).
Step 1: Grate the soap. This was no small feat for us. In total, 4 pounds of soap took us about 45 minutes to do.
Step 2: Melt the soap back down. For this we selected to use our crock pot. Since we had missed the first opportunity to add the sunflower oil, we did this now to the grated soap.
Step 3: Stir. Actually, this step is more like trying to rotate the soap. Since you never want to scorch your soap when using a crock pot, this stir was more like a rotation of the soap within the crock pot.
Step 4: Wait about 25-30 minutes, then check the soap again and stir/rotate. The longer the soap melts, you will notice more of it becoming very gel like.
Step 5: At this point, we noticed that the soap looked a little dry. If this occurs, add a little water.
Step 6: Stir to disperse the water among all of the soap.
Step 7: Wait for another 20 minutes or so, then give the soap a good stir.
Step 8: Add fragrance and stir. Although we did scent the original batch, we wanted to rescent the rebatch for any scent that may have been lost through the saponification process and the reheating process.
Step 9: Get your mold, and start to fill it with the soap. Remember to tap your mold as you fill to reduce any bubbles that may be trapped in your soap.
Step 10: Continue filling your mold and tapping it until all of the soap is out of the crock pot and into your mold.
Step 11: Insulate and wait. The soap will need about 12 hours or so in the mold. Once the time elapses, remove the soap from the molds and slice.
Our rebatched soap bars are awesome now. They have a creamy full lather, and even better they don't crumble and are actual bars! Although the finished rebatch bars do have a rustic appeal, it kind of suits them. Overall, this was a great learning experience, and we were able to save the 4 pound batch of soap. Learning how to rebatch really was not difficult, and was well worth the effort in the end.
- [What do I need to make Cold Processed Soap?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-do-i-need-to-make-cold-processed-soap-810007.md):Cold Process Soap:
In general, soap crafters consider cold process soap to be one of the most common methods for soap making. This method has been termed "cold process" because there is no outside heating source applied to initiate the process of saponification. Hot process soap uses different types of heating sources, such as the stove or a crock pot. On the other hand, in cold process soap, the lye mixture creates heat and saponifies the oils by itself. The lack of a heat source unfortunately means that this type of soap will take a lot longer to cure. The typical curing time for cold process soap is between 4 and 6 weeks. Although lengthy, this curing time is necessary to allow the soap to harden. The longer cure time will also help your soap to be more tolerable on the skin.
After creating your soap, you can decide whether or not you want to insulate it. A lot of the research we read suggests insulating, but it is mostly up to your personal preference. We have written a blog in the past about how you can insulate soap to promote gel phase. After pouring the soap into your mold, surround it with layers of towels or blankets. The layers will absorb the heat while your soap undergoes saponification. This process is the gel phase, where the fats in your soap become hardened. The key to this process is evenly heating the soap in order to prevent a partial gel from occurring. If you insulate, it will accelerate saponification and the finished look will look slightly shiny. By deciding to put your soap in the fridge instead, saponification will slow down and the finish will look more matte.
Ingredients in Cold Process Soap: Lye
Now that we have discussed the process of insulation, we should mention ingredients that are important for cp soap. In order to get your bars of soap to turn out correctly, measuring the ingredients to a tee is very important. Starting with the main ingredient, sodium hydroxide, which is also known as lye. This is completely necessary to make cold process soap. Lye is an emulsifier, which allows oils and butters to mix with water and make soap. Without it, these ingredients would not mix which would prevent any soap being made. By adding too much lye, it can result in your soap having a higher PH level, which may end up causing burns and irritation to the skin. On the other hand, if the lye is not balanced properly with the oils, it can interfere with the reaction, which can lead to greasy and oily bars of soap.
Ingredients in Cold Process Soap: Oils
Palm oil, coconut oil, and olive oil pomace are all commonly used when making cold process soap. They contribute different qualities to your soap depending on their main properties. We have a chart on our website that breaks down the soaping oil properties for each type of oil. The properties we looked at are hardness, cleansing, conditioning level, bubbly lather, creamy lather, and sap value. Also included in the chart is some miscellaneous information to provide you with more knowledge about each of the oils. Palm oil is high in its hardness, conditioning, and creamy lathering elements. Coconut oil contributes to hardness, cleansing quality, and bubbly lather. Olive oil pomace is very high in conditioning, which is definitely an ideal quality for soap. The combination of these three oils would create a soap that cleanses thoroughly, lathers nicely, and is gentle on the skin all at the same time.
Ingredients in Cold Process Soap: Colorants
Some other ingredients that are commonly added to cold process soap are FUN soap colorants, soap dyes, and mica pigments. We have many different color options to choose from in colorants, dyes, and beautiful diamond dust and 24K gold micas. When it comes to adding colorants or pigments, some may cause color morphing, which could affect the appearance aspect of your soap. To save yourself the frustration of ruining a batch of soap that discolors to something you do not like, you can test this out before hand. This can be done by taking a small amount of soap dye or mica pigment and adding it to a little of the lye mixture. You will be able to see your results quickly.
Cold Process Soap Testing
In our recipes you can find on our website, we have taken the time to test each of our fragrance oils in cold process soap. This way, our customers are able to see the results before they decide to use them. When we tested them, we were specifically looking for acceleration, discoloration, ricing, separation, and scent retention.
Cold Process Soap Class 101
Doing your research before making cold process soap for the first time is extremely important. For example, if you have never worked with lye before, you will need to learn about it before hand. Your top priority when making soap should be practicing proper safety because accidents may happen if precautions are not taken. Another thing when it comes to lye is that it cannot be stored in or combined with any containers or other products that are made out of aluminum or tin. The reason for this is that the combination will cause a violent reaction. For these reasons, we implore you to use the safety gear including; safety goggles, a safety mask, and gloves. One last thing to remember is that the materials and equipment used when making soap should never be used for food again. By keeping these steps in mind and being cautious, making soap can be both easy and fun.
We are not responsible for the performance of any of the recipes provided on our website. Testing is always the responsibility of our customers. If you plan to resell any of the recipes that we provide, it is also your responsibility to follow all FDA regulations. For any products and ingredients listed in recipes that are not sold by us, we can not offer advice on where they can be purchased. When you use our recipes and/or raw ingredients, you are agreeing to indemnify IndiMade Brands against any liability of performance, any lack of performance, or any problems that you encounter with the finished products..
- [I am new to soap making, can you help me?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/i-am-new-to-soap-making-can-you-help-me-810009.md):We are here to help you succeed! We are going to answer some common melt and pour soap questions that we get asked frequently by customers. Since these questions are common, its likely that these are the issues most soap makers will come across when making their melt and pours soaps. So, let's get these soaping issues solved so you can create some gorgeous bars of mp soap!
Do you Offer Melt and Pour Soap Supplies?
Yes, we do! We offer all kinds of melt and pour soap making supplies! Click on the Soap Making Supplies tab on the website and you will find soap base, soap colorants, an mp soap kit, soap additives, and soap molds. Everything that you could need right in one easy place!
Can I Make Soap Without Using Lye?
Since the mp soap base has already been made, you can create melt and pour soap without worrying about the lye. If you are wondering "What is the difference between melt and pour soap and cold process soap?", then this is a big difference. While melt and pour is pre-made and can be remelted, cold process soap is made from scratch using lye.
Can Melt and Pour Soap Be Used Right Away?
Since mp soap was already made and the saponification process has already taken place, you don't have to wait to use your soap. As soon as the melt and pour soaps have hardened in the molds, you can pop them out and use them!
Where Do I Find the Melt and Pour Soap Ingredients?
You can find the soap base ingredients in two places. The first place is online, as each mp soap base has the ingredients listed in the description. Also, these ingredients can be found on the label of the base itself.
What Soap Making Supplies Do I Need to Make Melt and Pour Soap?
Most importantly, you will need a microwave or double boiler and mp soap. Also, you will need a cutting board, knife, a microwave safe dish, spoon, rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle, and a soap mold. If you want fragrance, color, or herbs you will need to have these out, too.
How Do I Melt Soap Into a New Bar?
Melt and Pour soap can be melted using a double boiler on a stove top or a bowl in the microwave. Just make sure that you use 30 second intervals to warm the soap int the microwave. Otherwise, it may get too hot and your soap will be ruined. Also, make sure that you are watchful when melting soap on the stove. While a double boiler on medium heat will help to protect your soap, you don't want to heat it too much longer after it is liquid.
How Much Soap Will I Need for My Mold?
Formula: (Weight Needed Per Ounce) x (Ounces Mold Holds) = Total Weight
How Do I Get My Melt and Pour Soap Out of the Mold?
Sometimes your soap may get stuck in the mold. You can place the mold in the fridge for a short amount of time. Once the chilled soap mold is removed, the soaps should pop out fairly easily.
What Temperature Should I Pour Melt and Pour Soap?
Melt and Pour soap should be poured in a liquid state, which should be around 140 degrees Fahrenheit. So, you can pour your soap once it has all completely melted.
Why Do I Have Bubbles in My Melt and Pour Soap?
Although making air bubbles is unavoidable, you can get rid of them by spraying lightly with rubbing alcohol. These are often air bubbles that form when you pour, so you can release them by spraying right after you pour. However, bubbles that are a light-yellow color are fragrance oil and won't go away by spraying. This is either due to adding too much fragrance oil or not mixing thoroughly.
Why is My Homemade Soap So Oily?
One reason that you soaps would be oily is that they contain too much oil. So, you can try reducing the amount of the fragrance oil and/or the carrier oil that you are adding to your soaps. If your bars look like they are sweating, then it could be due to not wrapping the soap soon enough. Since your soap contains an ingredient, vegetable glycerin, that pulls moisture to it, it will pull moisture out of the air to create "sweat". But, you can lessen your chances of this by wrapping your soaps right after they are out of the mold.
Why is My Melt and Pour Soap Dissolving So Fast?
While a softer bar of soap is great for nourishing the skin, it is more likely to dissolve quickly in water. So, you can add some extra oil to your soap to moisturize. However, adding too much will make your bar very soft and it will dissolve quickly in the shower.
How Do I Swirl Melt and Pour Soap?
While it is possible to swirl mp soap, it is a bit trickier to swirl compared to cp soaps. On its own melt and pour soap won't swirl. Instead, the colors will mix before the soap hardens. So, you need to add a cosmetic powder, like clay, fruit, or veggie powders. This will slightly thicken the soap and create tension between the two colors that are gong to create the swirl. We did this in our own Swirled Melt and Pour Soap Recipe!
Why Won't My Melt and Pour Soap Lather?
There are a few possible answers to this question. First off, soap can loose its lather due to an excess of oils and herbs being added to the bar. Also, some types of our soap base use ingredients that naturally lather better.
Why is My Soap Not Hardening?
If your melt and pour soap isn't hardening, then it could be due to adding too much oil. Whether the culprit is fragrance oil, carrier oil, or both, it is most likely that this excess oil is to blame. Another possibility is that the soap was overheated, which resulted in a break down in the soaps that prevents it from working properly.
Can You Use Essential Oils in Melt and Pour Soap?
Of course! Many essential oils can be used in soap making and the rules for using them safely are just like the ones for fragrance oils. So, you need to check the IFRA sheet to determine usage rates and figure out whether the specific essential oil is body safe. You can find this IFRA statement on the page of each individual essential oil that we carry. Many are body safe scents, but some are not considered safe for prolonged skin contact.
How Do I Color Melt and Pour Soap?
We have soap dye, soap colorants, and powdered herbs that can be used to color your homemade soaps. The soap dyes are great for solid color soaps, but tend to bleed when used in layered soap. Also, the white soap base will provide a more pastel color and the clear soap will give a more true color. The FUN Soap Colorants are vibrant colors that are more true in all soap bases. Lastly, the natural form of coloring soaps is cosmetic herbs, which are perfect for a rustic or natural look. Just be aware that herbs can oxidize over time and cause discoloration of the soap.
Do You Offer Melt and Pour Soap Recipes?
Of course! We have a wide variety of melt and pour soap recipes and soap making ideas. Check out our recipes section on our website.
Do you Offer Soap Making Kits?
Yes! We have the Melt and Pour Soap Kit available.
Why Won't My Soap Frosting Setup on My Melt and Pour Soap?
If you are making cupcake soap wholesale, then the frosting is a pretty big deal. You are going to want to use the whipped soap base, melt and pour soap, and vegetable glycerin. The soap base allows the frosting to harden on the cupcake, while the vegetable glycerin allows for a little flexibility. If you are curious and thinking, "How do I make melt and pour soap frosting?", then check out our Soap Frosting Recipe to see how we make the frosting for our soap cupcakes. While the recipe goes into more detail, basically it is equal parts of mp soap base and whipped soap base with 5% of vegetable glycerin and fragrance oil all whipped into a frosting consistency.
Are Most Recipes are Showing Oils Measured in Weight Ounces Or in Fluid Ounces?
In our soap recipes we will use weight ounces. We do this because weight ounces are more accurate than fluid ounces. So, we highly recommend weighing your ingredients using a gram scale. This will allow you to be precise in your measurements and prevent accidental mix ups.
What is the Best Way to Wrap Melt and Pour Soap?
There are a few different ways that you can package your finished soaps. We prefer to use shrink wrap, but you can use ziplock bags, or a decorative box.
How Should Soap Be Stored?
After your soap is wrapped, you can store it in a cool, dry place for later use.
Do you Offer Any Melt and Pour Soap Recipes with Shea Butter?
We sure do! If you go to the Shea Butter Melt and Pour Soap page of the website and click on the Recipe tab, you will see all kinds of melt and pour soap recipes. For example, we have the Zebra Print Soap Recipe and the Graffiti Melt and Pour Soap Recipe that both use shea butter mp soap.
History of Soap
Today, there are all kinds of different types of soap from melt and pour soap recipes to commercially made soaps. However, the first soaps ever made weren't too fancy. In fact, the first known use of soap was by ancient Babylonians that used animal fats and ashes as their ingredients. If you want to learn more interesting soap facts, then check out History of Soap and Soap Interesting Facts by Soap History.
Ask Us Your Questions
Hopefully, this blog was helpful in learning a bit more about melt and pour soap. If you have anything else that you aren't sure of, then please ask us your questions. One easy way to reach out and talk to us is social media. We have an account on Facebook, Twitter (@ngscents), and Instagram (@ngscents).
- [Finding the Perfect Soap Recipe](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/finding-the-perfect-soap-recipe-810012.md):With such a variety of soaping bases, fats, and oils available in the market, one can easily see where the excitement can collide with frustration, especially if you are new to soaping. We strive for a perfect recipe, but where to begin, the possibilities are endless. From this soap making blog series, we have already gone over the different types of soaping processes, soap safety, and soaping terminology. Now, we seek out creating the perfect soaping recipe.
Soap is made by the chemical reaction that occurs when mixing fatty acids, lye, and water. The lye component actually works as an emulsifier, bonding the fatty oils and water together. Without the lye, this bond would never form. These 3 elements, fatty acids, lye, and water are all essential components to the saponification process.
Each soaping oil/butter has a fatty acid composition, and since every oil/butter is different, so is their fatty acid composition. It is through the variance of each fatty acid composition that important soaping characteristics and qualities are found. Let s briefly look at some of the most common fatty acids, as well as, the qualities that are provided by them in a cured bar of soap.
Lauric Acid: Provides hardness, cleansing, and bubbly lather.
Linoleic Acid: Provides conditioning
Myristic Acid: Provides hardness, cleansing, and bubbly lather.
Oleic Acid: Provides conditioning
Palmitic Acid: Provides hardness and a creamy lather
Ricinoleic Acid: Provides conditioning, bubbly lather, and a creamy lather.
Stearic Acid: Provides hardness and a creamy lather.
As you can see, each and every element that is put into your soaping recipe has distinct benefits or uses, and some ingredients can also inhibit certain soap bar qualities. Please also notice, that none of the fatty acids allow for all five of the soaping qualities that you are looking for in a bar of soap. This is why; in order to find a good symmetry among these qualities, a soaping recipe usually contains several different oils (fatty acids).
In order to create a quality bar of soap, it is necessary to find a balance between hardness, cleansing, conditioning, bubbly lather, and creamy lather. This usually involves using a combination of oils/butters in your soap recipe. A typical bar soap recipe calls for 38% water content, and a 5% superfat (the percentage of oils that do not saponifiy).
Here are the values for a typical bar of soap; they are presented in a range:
Hardness
29 to 54
Cleansing
12 to 22
Conditioning
44 to 69
Bubbly lather
14 to 46
Creamy lather
16 to 48
There is however, one example of a soap recipe that can be done with just one oil. For people who are allergic to nuts, olive oil soap can be made with just that olive oil. No allergen worries. Once this bar has cured though, you have a nice conditioning soap bar that will not leave your hands dry, but, that same soap bar also will not produce a nice lather, and will be very limited in cleansing ability. This is why being aware of all of the capabilities of your oils, fats, butters, and additives will give you a distinct advantage over other soap bars in the market.
Remember, since all oils have their own fatty acid makeup, they also have specific saponification or SAP values. This is why it is extremely important that once the ingredients of your soaping recipe are calculated, you MUST use those oils. They cannot be exchanged out for other soaping oils without recalculating your recipe.
Feeling overwhelmed yet? Don t! We know that this is a lot of information to grasp. This is why if you are new to soaping, it is our suggestion that you try a recipe that has already been tried and tested. Doing this will allow you to initiate yourself with the soaping instruction and procedure. Performing the steps from beginning to end will also give you a firsthand experience of the soaping method and key properties of the saponification process like trace or gel phase.
Congratulations Newbies! Now is the time where we are actually going to make our first batch together.
Working with lye can be very dangerous!
We have already went slightly ahead, and provided you below a recipe for your 1st time soaping.
Here is what you will need for a 2 pound batch:
6 ounces of Coconut Oil, 76 degree
8.4 ounces of Olive Oil Pomace
8.4 ounces Palm Oil
1.2 ounces of Castor Oil
1.5 ounces of a body safe fragrance oil
9.12 ounces of Distilled Water
3.393 ounces of lye (NaOH)
This recipe range for soap bar quality is:
Hardness
43
Cleansing
17
Conditioning
54
Bubbly lather
22
Creamy lather
31
As you will notice all of the qualities fall within the suggested range nicely. This soap recipe will give you a balanced overall bar of soap.
- [3 different ways to incorporate Color Bars into M&P soap](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/3-different-ways-to-incorporate-color-bars-into-m-p-soap-809988.md): Soap color bars are color-concentrated soap bars that vibrantly and evenly color melt & pour soaps. Many prefer using soap color bars because they don’t leak like liquid colors or get powder everywhere like powdered colors. Using soap color bars will help your soapmaking be quick, easy, and clean!- [How do I get my Soap White?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-do-i-get-my-soap-white-809998.md):
how to Make Soap White
Homemade soap making is the perfect way to show off your creativity. While appearance isn't everything in a bar of soap, it certainly is important. Sometimes the discoloration of your soap bar just doesn't match the aroma and there may seem like there is nothing you can do to stop it. Or, you may just be trying to get your soap to be pure white, as no discoloration doesn't mean that you will get a pure white bar of soap. In fact, uncolored and unscented cold process soap is naturally an off white hue. But, there are a few additives that you could use in certain situations to attempt to achieve the perfect white color for your soap bars. All you need to do is learn how to make soap white and we would like to help you at as much as we possibly can!
How to Make Soap White Soap Making Options
We have three simple options for our lovely soap-makers that desire a whiter bar of soap. While there is no way to prevent discoloration in all cases, there are some options that you have for your soapmaking. First, we have the Vanilla White Color Stabilizer. This is a product that will actually prevent discoloration from fragrance. However, this ingredient is really only good for preventing fragrances with a vanillin content from discoloring. So, this additive will not always work to completely banish discoloration and may not work at all on some fragrances. Next, we have two types of titanium dioxide. While these ingredients are designed to change the appearance of the natural color of soaps. However, these additives will not prevent any fragrance discoloration. This ingredient is simply for turning the off white bars into a pure white hue.
How to Make Soap White Vanilla White Color Stabilizer
One easy method that you can use to whiten your cold process soaps is to add in our Vanilla White Color Stabilizer! While this ingredient can't completely whiten all kinds of discoloration, this product can strongly reduce certain types of discoloration. So, it is important to know exactly when to add this product. This ingredient will reduce the discoloration that is caused by vanillin. Also, this product will slow down this ingredient's ability to oxidize, which would cause browning in the soap. If the fragrance oil contains vanillin or components that will oxidize, then adding this ingredient will absolutely be helpful!
How to Make Soap White Why Use Vanilla White Color Stabilizer
As a soap maker, it is important to know how to deal with discoloration. While many great aromas that don't cause any discoloration, there are some fragrance oils with wonderful scents that just don't perform exactly how you want. It can be heartbreaking to discover a gorgeous scent that just discolors too much. What is worse is when the discoloration doesn't pair well with the aroma. This always happens with scents that have heavy vanilla notes. These fragrance oils often end up extremely dark, but smelling like a pure white vanilla dream! However, you can prevent it with Vanilla White Color Stabilizer. So, don't give up on your favorite vanilla soap scents just yet.
How to Make Soap White Vanilla Fragrance Oils
While there are definitely some types of discoloration that Vanilla White Color Stabilizer can't help with, this product is perfect for reducing discoloration from vanillin. This ingredient is what creates the vanilla aroma that we all know and love! This means that this color stabilizing agent is perfect for vanilla fragrances, and any fragrance that has a vanillin content. So, darker shades of soaps that are caused by vanilla fragrance oils can be tackled by this product. Although it is possible for a fragrance oil to have other discoloring agents, the Vanilla White Color Stabilizer is great for whitening discoloration due to vanillin. So, you should add this ingredient when the vanillin content is above 1% to prevent discoloration.
How to Make Soap White Oxidation Impact on Color
Over time, certain ingredients in the fragrance oil may begin to oxidize. While this is just a natural reaction some ingredients, like vanillin, have with the air, this could lead to a change in the color of your homemade soaps. Oxidation has the potential to cause a darker color for your soap, so you could potentially have discoloration after the soap has been created. Although Vanilla White Color Stabilizer can't completely prevent this reaction from occurring, it is perfect if you would like to slow down this natural process. Thus, you can delay this discoloration and, if you use your bars quick enough, may never even have to see it!
How to Make Soap White Impact on Scent
Since you are attempting to save this fragrance oil for your soap making, you don't want anything impacting the scent. Luckily, vanilla white color stabilizer can reduce discoloration without negatively impacting the fragrance oil that you enjoy. Although the aroma of this product is strong out of the bottle, the scent is completely unnoticeable in the finished soaps. So, you won't smell a thing in your soaps! This means you can have the appearance in your soap that you want without sacrificing the integrity of this fragrance oil's scent.
How to Make Soap White Using the Whitener
Now, you know exactly how Vanilla White Color Stabilizer will work in your soap! All you have left to do is to learn how you can incorporate the color stabilizer into your soap making. While it is not super difficult, you need to know what you are doing to make sure that the ingredient is actually incorporated. So, make sure to add this ingredient to aqueous bases as it is designed to stabilize water based formulas. This is because the vanilla white stabilizer can't be added to the oils until the saponification process.
How to Make Soap White How We Use Vanilla White Color Stabilizer
If you'd like to see exactly how this whitener product works, then check out our amazing Peppermint Fluff Soap Recipe! This is a quality soap recipe that required the base of the soap bar to be pure white hue. Otherwise, the design on our soap wouldn't look like a peppermint! So, the soap had to be red and pure white. However, this soap uses a fragrance with a vanillin content. In fact, the Peppermint Fluff Fragrance Oil includes a 6% vanillin content. So, we needed something to help with the inevitable discoloration. Otherwise, we would have ended up with a brown and red bar of soap that really wouldn't look like a peppermint at all. Instead, we used this ingredient and created the soap you see to the left!
How to Make Soap White Titanium Dioxide Water Soluble
Also, you have another perfect option for making homemade white soaps. You can use Titanium Dioxide to create a whiter bar of cp soap. While this ingredient won't reduce discoloration that is caused by some fragrance oils, it is perfect for whitening. If you have a bar with light or no discoloration, then you can add this powdered colorant to create a whiter bar. Instead of the typical off white soap color, the Titanium Dioxide will create a more pure white color in your bars. Thus, you can have decorative soaps with a pure white hue. Also, you will be able to still use your personal cold process soaping recipe.
How to Make Soap White Amount to Add
First, it is very important for you to know how much titanium dioxide that you can add to your homemade soaps. While this whitening powder is perfect for soap making, you don't want to add too much of this product to your soap. However, not adding enough of this product could leave you with a bar that isn't as white as you would like your soaps to be. So, we would suggest for you to include no more than a single teaspoon per pound of soap colored. All you need to do is add the right amount of this whitening product to your soaps!
How to Make Soap White Using the Water Soluble Titanium Dioxide
Next, you need to learn how this ingredient needs to be used. Since this ingredient is water based, it needs to be added to the lye water solution. This means that you will have to add this white pigment to your whole soap bar. So, the water soluble version of Titanium Dioxide is perfect for coloring an entire bar of cold process soap. Then, you can combine your water and oils perfectly to create a whiter bar of soap. Although you can separate some of this white soap to color with soap dyes, the titanium dioxide won't impact the color.
How to Make Soap White Titanium Dioxide Oil Dispersible
Alternatively, you can use a different type of Titanium Dioxide to create your soaps. This ingredient is perfect for whitening smaller portions of your cold process soap. This version of Titanium Dioxide will perform similarly to the water soluble version. Thus, both act as a whitening pigment for the uncolored portions of the soap. Again, this ingredient won't fix any discoloration caused by fragrance oils. This is because this additive is designed to alter the color of natural soaps to a more pure white. The only difference between the Oil Dispersible Titanium Dioxide and the Water Soluble Titanium Dioxide is how it is incorporated into the soap.
How to Make Soap White Using the Oil Dispersible Titanium Dioxide
Now, all you need is to learn how to use this product in your soap making process! Since this ingredient is oil based, you need to add titanium dioxide to the oil portion of your soaps. So, you'll need to take a bit of your cosmetic oils and mix your powdered pigment together. Then, you will need to mix up your soap batch. Afterwards, separate out the portion of soap that you'd like to be whitened. Then, mix together the separated portion and the titanium dioxide to create the perfect white color for your soap design.
How to Make Soap White How We Use Titanium Dioxide Oil Dispersible
Finally, take a peek at how we like to use titanium dioxide in our very own soap making recipes. The Sweet Orange Chili Pepper Cold Process Soap Recipe is one example where adding this ingredient is perfect for creating perfect designs. This soap recipe incorporates a perfect in-the-pot swirl with vibrant red, pure white, and gorgeous orange colors. Note that the white portion of this swirl is even whiter than the normal hue of cold process soap. Luckily, this fragrance oil causes no discoloration in homemade soap! This means that adding titanium dioxide is a perfect option for creating a pure white section in your soap.
How to Make Soap White Colorant Options
Now that you have whiter bars of soap, let's talk about soap making colorants! You could add some fun colorants to your soaps that include some Vanilla White Color Stabilizer. Now that you prevented the discoloration, you are able to add any colors that you would like! Also, you are going to need some fun colors to go along with your newly whitened bars of soap. If you would like to explore your soap coloring options, then check out our various Soap Colorants. These would be perfect to add to your newly whitened bars.
How to Make Soap White Share Your Creations
Hopefully, you learned a bit about how to control the color of your handmade soaps. Whether you have discoloration issues or want a whiter bar of soap, using additives can be helpful for some of your soaping issues. Now, you are prepared to create all kinds of fun soap designs. If you would like to share any of your soaping successes, then share pictures or your story on either our Facebook or Instagram pages! We would love to see your homemade creations!
- [How Do I Naturally Color Soap?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-do-i-naturally-color-soap-810008.md):Many people are curious about how they can color their homemade soaps naturally. Of course, there are vibrant soap pigments and dyes, but what are my options for coloring soap? More importantly for all natural soap makers, How Do I Naturally Color Soap? Well, its simple, just use some cosmetic herbs. While not every herb is pigmented, there are many herbs out there that can be used to provide some wonderful colors. Plus, many herbs come with some added benefits for the body. We have compiled a short natural soap colorants list that can be handy for the average soap maker.
How Do You Add Herbs To Soap
Since herbs are a great way to naturally color your homemade soaps, you will want to know the ways that you can incorporate them into your recipes. Depending on the form that they come in, there are a few methods you may want to know. First, we have the easiest herb in incorporate, which is powdered herbs. The powder can simply be added to the recipe either before the CP soap reaches trace or before pouring your MP soap. Also, you can add the herb to vegetable glycerin to break up chunks before adding it, but this isn't always necessary.
Next, we have the whole herbs, which include things like flower petals or cinnamon sticks. While there are instances where you want to add whole herbs to your soap, you don't need this for coloring. So, these herbs can either be added in tea form or an oil infusion. For the tea all you need to do is steep your herbs in hot water to create a tea and use this as the water portion of your recipe. If you aren't using water in your recipe, then you will want to do an oil infusion. So, you will need to create an herb oil by either allowing your herbs to soak in one of your oils for 4-6 weeks or add them to the pot as you oils melt. After, you will just need to strain out the herbs.
Creating a Yellow Color
One fun color that you can achieve naturally in your homemade soaps is yellow. You can use highly pigmented herbs, like Annatto, Saffron, or Turmeric Ground, that are perfect for adding some color to your natural soaps. Plus, there are added benefits of turmeric powder in soap that you can get from a synthetic colorant. This cosmetic herb is well known for its many health benefits, which includes benefits for skin care. Turmeric is an anti-inflammatory, which has been found to help reduce redness or dark circles. Also, this herb is antibacterial, which could be beneficial for a clear face. Furthermore, this pigmented herb has antioxidant properties, which is a property that is perfect for anti-aging products. If you'd like to learn more about this herb, then check out Turmeric Class.
How to Color Soap Orange Naturally
Another great natural colorant is Carrot Powder, which provides a creamy orange color. Plus, this herb is absolutely wonderful for the skin, as it is full of vitamins and minerals that skin loves. This herb repairs and tones the skin, reduces wrinkles and scars, improves circulation, increases elasticity, and nourishes the skin with beta carotene. Also, since this herb tends to clump you may want to use vegetable glycerin to incorporate this lovely herb.
How to Naturally Color Soap Pink
Another fun color that you can include in your natural homemade soap recipes is pink. Actually, there are a few different herbs that you can choose between to get some pretty pink hues. First, we have the Hibiscus Flower Powder. This herb is gorgeous, smells lovely, and is amazing for your skin. What's not to love? In fact, hibiscus has been referred to as "the Natural Botox plant", and for good reason. This herb is known to be gentle as it moisturizes, cleanses, tones, and reduces wrinkles! If you want to know more, check out our Hibiscus Class.
A second option for coloring your soaps is the Beet Root Powder herb. One great thing about this her is that it is perfect for taking care of your face. In fact, this herb has been known to work great for reducing skin blemishes, pore size, and acne. If you'd like to learn more about this herb, then check out our Beet Root Powder Class.
Lastly, you can create a gorgeous pink color for your bath and body products using the Rose Clay Powder. This pink cosmetic clay is gentle, natural ingredient that contains kaolinite. This herb gently exfoliates, draws out toxins, reduces inflammation, and increases circulation. Plus, it is gentle for even the most sensitive skin. It is a powerful and kind herb that is perfect for creating naturally colored soaps.
Natural Pink Soap Colorants for Melt and Pour
Also, you can use the Rose Clay Powder to create naturally colored melt and pour soap. We used this cosmetic pink clay in our Swirled Melt and Pour Soap Recipe, as herbs are the best way to be able to swirl soap. While this recipe also uses pink soap pigment to create a more vibrant pink, this clay can work perfectly all by itself too. In the Perfectly Pampered Shaving Soap Recipe, we used rose clay to perfectly color the bottom portion of this gorgeous bath and body recipe.
Creating a Brown Color
Also, you can use herbs to create a natural brown color in your homemade soaps. One herb that you can include in soaps is the Black Walnut Hulls Powder. Not only can this herb be used to create a brown hue, but it can be added to vibrant colors to mute the color. Furthermore, this cosmetic herb has some fantastic properties for the skin! This herb has antifungal properties that have been known to treat acne, herpes, athlete s foot, cold sores, and even warts. Plus, it can even be used to treat yeast infections and ringworm. If you would like to learn more about the benefits of this herb, then take a look at our Black Walnut Hulls Class.
Another great herb that can be used to create a deep chocolate brown is Cocoa Powder Organic. This cosmetic herb was used as an organic colorant and for its beneficial properties. This cosmetic herb promotes healthy skin tissues, firms and renews skin cells, and promotes healthy skin cell development. Plus, it works as an antioxidant and helps to repair any damaged skin, improves blood flow to the skin, helps to improve skin hydration and complexion. It even absorbs UV light into the skin. If you want to learn more about this fantastic herb, then you can find out more in our Cocoa Powder Class.
Naturally Colored Chocolate Soaps
Cocoa powder is a perfect way to naturally color chocolate scented soaps. We have included this lovely herb in many recipes for both its perfect coloring properties and lovely skin properties. One delicious looking soap recipe that only uses this herb as a colorant is the Hot Fudge Brownies Cold Process Soap Recipe. This naturally colored cold process soap looks almost good enough to eat! Plus, you can you this herb to make some yummy melt and pour soaps, too. The Chocolate Cream Cheese Cupcake Soap Recipe is a scrumptious soap that is just the perfect shade of chocolate!
How to Color Soap Black
Another color that you can create naturally with herbs is black. Adding Activated Charcoal Powder is a sure way to get a pure black color in your homemade soaps. Not only will you get a fantastic color, but this cosmetic ingredient is wonderfully cleansing. Activated Charcoal is an adsorbent, which means that it is able to hold onto molecules and trap them on the surface. So, when you wash off the activated charcoal the grime goes along with it. Further, it has the power to pull dirt and oil both off your skin and out of your pores. Overall, this makes activated charcoal a powerful cosmetic ingredient that you will adore for soap-making.
Naturally Colored Black Soaps
We included this cleansing cosmetic herb in our own homemade soap recipes. First, we incorporated activated charcoal into the Activated Charcoal Soap Recipe. The herb enhances this soap to create an even deeper cleansing soap. Plus, the MP soap bars have a stunning jet black layer that works perfectly with the poppy seeds in the clear layer. Such a fun and natural homemade soap!
Also, we included this fantastic colorant in our Total Hot Man CP Soap Recipe. While the red is a soap pigment, the black portion of the bar is all thanks to activated charcoal. So, you can tell that this herb works great in both CP soap and MP soap. Plus, this gorgeous bar of soap will maintain the powerful cleaning properties of activated charcoal. So, this bar of soap is great all around!
How to Color Soap Green Naturally
Also, you can use herbs to provide your soaps with a natural green color! Many herbs that come from plants containing chlorophyll will do the trick, but here are a few that we like to use in soaps. First, we have Parsley Leaf Powder. Not only does this herb provide a nice, earthy green color, but it will perfectly nourish your skin with nutrients. Also, you can use Green Tea Powder in any soaps to create a nice green color. Plus, this lovely herb will provide gentle exfoliation to the skin along with beneficial antioxidant properties. Either would be perfect for making some homemade soaps!
How to Color Soap Blue or Purple
While many other herbs can be used to naturally color any bath and body product, the Alkanet Root is for cold process soap only. This means that you, unfortunately, won't be able to use this to make natural purple MP soap. However, you can create some pretty gorgeous and natural cold process soaps! We don't carry this particular herb, but we still thought it was a great one to mention since it can provide a pretty purple color. Also, this can be used in differing amounts to provide a pink or even a blue color!
What is Alkanet
If you are curious to learn more about Alkanet as a natural colorant, then Lovely Green's Growing Alkanet. Lovely Green uses a touch of this very herb to lightly color her typical lavender soap. It is a natural, light purple hue that is very pretty. The color was especially for a lavender soap! So, you will definitely want to check this herb out.
Reach Out to Us
We hope that you have enjoyed all of these options for naturally coloring your homemade soaps! These herbs are just some of the most common herbs that we know of or have used in the past. If you know of or use any other herbs that you use for your naturally colored soaps, we would love to hear about your favorite cosmetic herbs for soapmaking. Also, feel free to ask us any questions that you may have about natural colorants or soaping in general. We are happy to help! You can reach out to us on social media. There is our Facebook page and Instagram account. We can't wait to hear from you!
- [How do I Make a Swirl in My Soap?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-do-i-make-a-swirl-in-my-soap-810011.md):Melt and Pour (MP) Soap Base is a man-made, commercially produced, water-soluble compound formulated for the purpose of cleansing the body. It comes in varying shades, depending on the formula and additives used. You can typically find white bases, clear bases, green tinted bases and yellow tinted bases.
Natural vegetable oils are saponified and used as a base for the MP Soap. Unlike traditional soap making, the saponification process is complete and no curing time is necessary. Working with MP Soap Base is great for those that don’t want to handle sodium hydroxide (lye).
When the soap is commercially produced, additives are incorporated into the formula to improve the base’s clarity, lather and craftability. MP Soap Base is a unique soap because it is specifically formulated to be heated, melted and solidified without changing the original qualities of the base.
Natural vegetable oils have different fatty acid chain lengths and each different chain length contributes to different characteristics of the soap. Shorter fatty acid chain lengths are more water-soluble and produce large bubbles, quick lather, and a softer bar of soap. Longer fatty acid chain lengths are less water-soluble and produce smaller tight bubbles and a harder bar of soap. Different manufacturers use different fatty acids in their individual MP Soap Base formulas. The following are the most common fatty acids used, including chain length:
Lauric Acid: C-12
Myristic Acid: C-14
Palmitic Acid: C-16
Stearic Acid: C-18
Note: Adding extra ingredients can reduce the lather of the final product, so keep this in mind when you are formulating.
- [Melt and Pour Soap Basics Part 2](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/melt-and-pour-soap-basics-part-2-809979.md):
Pour Temperature
The majority of bases on the market have a recommended pouring temperature of 140º-145ºF. This temperature may be only several degrees lower than maximum temperatures that promote dehydration. Thus it is necessary to closely control the pouring temperature.
When pouring soap over embeds or when pouring soap in layers, it is important to adjust the pour temperature of the second pour of soap. If you do not adjust your pour temperature, the
second pour of soap will melt the first pour of soap. To adjust the pour temperature, simply allow the soap to cool before you pour it. While cooling, if the soap forms a skin or thick layer of soap, simply mix it and it will melt with the soap below it. To prevent the first pour of soap from melting, the second pour of soap should be 125º-130ºF.
- [Melt & Pour Soapmaking – FAQs: General Questions & Packaging](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/melt-pour-soapmaking-faqs-general-questions-packaging-809982.md):
Challenge: Uneven Layered Lines
Uneven lines can happen for two reasons. First the second layer may be too hot when poured over the first layer causing your pristine line to break. Secondly, if the first layer has not set, the clean lines of your soap bar may be punctured by the second layer when poured. To prevent this make sure that your second layer is poured at a temperature less than 130°F and be PATIENT with your first layer and allow it to cool.
Challenge: Migrating Color Layers
Dyes are very popular in melt and pour soap making them look like stained glass in clear soap. They are also the most challenging because they are water based causing layers to migrate. Another trouble colorant are lake dyes when a layer is over colored it will cause bleeding. We typically recommend using mica or pigment colors.
Challenge: Layers that Slide Apart
Your layers may be perfect but as soon as you unmold your single bar it becomes two. When creating layered soaps, rubbing alcohol allows the layers to adhere to each other. If you forget, don’t fret, your soap can be melted back down and remolded but the next time you layer, don’t forget the 90% rubbing alcohol in between the layers!
Challenge: Surrounding Layers
When your first layer of soap sits in the mold too long it will shrink. This gap is then filled when the second layer of soap is poured, causing color to surround the bottom layers of soap. Another cause of surrounding layers could be unmolding your first layer before pouring the second layer. The best practice is to set aside enough time to complete your finished product within a day or two. To speed up setting time you can also set your mold in the freezer for 15 minute bursts.
Making the Perfect Layers
We recommend following these steps to make the perfect layered soap.
Goal: Beautiful Clean Layers
Soap with different colors or fragrances can be combined into one bar. It is not only unique but visually appealing with the added dimension to your final product. Creating layers can be tricky but they’re not impossible, read more to pick up tips and tricks to create flawless layers.
Layer Tutorial with Pictures: https://library.rusticescentuals.com/learning-to-layer-melt-pour-soap/
Additional Tips
~If you are creating multiple bars of layered soap at a time or if you need your workspace for something else it is always a good practice to place your mold on a cookie sheet for easy transportation. Moving a mold on its own, especially a silicone mold, could cause a ripple on the top of your layers.
~When pouring layers it is always a good practice to pour in swirls rather than dumping the soap base in one area. This eliminates any potential breakage between layers
- [Tutorial: Swirling Melt & Pour Soap](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/tutorial-swirling-melt-pour-soap-809986.md):
Helpful tips and Tricks:
Make Dividers: A key to swirling melt and pour soap is to keep your colors separate until they are just the right temperature to swirl. Dividers in your mold drastically help with this! Use a stiff wax covered paper to create the dividers, here we used a file folder. They should fit snugly lengthwise in your loaf mold and at least two inches taller than the mold. The height allows for easy removal later.
Choose Your Colors Wisely: At least one contrasting color is important to achieve a vivid melt and pour swirl. We find that using two vibrant colors in clear soap base and the third color as white soap base consistently produces stunning swirled designs. Separate and color your soap into three different containers with your fragrance of choice.
Juggling Soap Temperatures: The best swirled designs happen when all three soap bases are roughly the same temperature when pouring. This becomes increasingly difficult if you only have one microwave! Melt each soap being extra careful not to overheat any of the colors. We recommend getting the soaps to 140ºF each. If you have the ability, 3 separate double boilers can help achieve a consistent temperature for the soap bases.
Putting It All Together: While holding the dividers in place, pour the most contrasting soap color into the middle section at a temperature of 125ºF to 130ºF. Only pour 1/4” to 1/2” high. Move to the sides by filling each side section with a different soap color matching the level you poured in the middle. Continue filling in this manner until you have reached the top. Carefully remove the dividers. Use a skewer to zig-zag your way through the loaf from end to end. When you reach the end move the skewer along the edges of the mold and remove the skewer and any clumps that may have accumulated on the skewer. Allow to harden, then un-mold and slice as usual.
- [Melt and Pour Design Techniques: Working With Embeds](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/melt-and-pour-design-techniques-working-with-embeds-809987.md):
Summer Celebration Layer Melt and Pour Soap Recipe
Blue Heart MP Soap
Apple Balsam Pine Tree Loaf
Sea Glass Soap
Sliced Tomato Luffa Soap
Melt and Pour Soap Bases contain high levels of vegetable glycerin. Glycerin is a natural byproduct of the saponification process. The ingredient glycerin is a humectant. A humectant is a substance that can retain and preserve moisture, therefore also preventing loss of moisture as well. Humectants are very important in bath and body products. Having a moisturizing aspect to your products is especially crucial for the dry skin type products.
Sometimes, during the manufacturing process of melt and pour soaps, extra glycerin is added. Glycerin is a key ingredient for making clear soaps. Some types of melt and pour soaps even have up to 20% of pure glycerin in them (this would be why glycerin is listed so highly on the ingredients label). But remember this glycerin is what gives melt and pour soap some of its highly sought after qualities, easy to color and mold, skin loving nature, mild and gentle soap (good for children and sensitive skinned), and very highly moisturizing naturally.
In fact, it is believed that in theory when you wash your hands with glycerin soap, there will be a thin layer of glycerin that is left behind after you rinse off the lather. This layer of glycerin then does its humectant job and pulls moisture from the air, keeping your hand moisturized until the next wash. But, it is also this same ingredient which is causing your melt and pour soap to sweat. Some people believe that m&p sweat is inevitable, but there are some steps you can take to help avoid and reduce sweat.
Because glycerin is a humectant, the sweat that is produced after m&p soap in unmolded is actually condensation from the air that the glycerin drew out unto itself. This is a very important element to remember if you live in an area with high heat and high humidity, or if you are soaping while it is raining outside. Humidity is the number one cause for sweat.
How to Reduce M&P Soap Sweat:
One of the best suggestions that we have for reducing the amount of sweat on your soaps is to have a dehumidifier in your soaping area. You also want to keep the temperature of the room where you are soaping constant. Drastic changes in temperature will also enhance soap sweat.
The first option in reducing sweat on m&p soap, especially if you live in a very humid area, is to store unmolded soaps in an airtight container. By doing this, you are eliminating any extra moisture to be retained by the glycerin. One tip we have learned from our customers is to spread a thin layer of aroma beads into the bottom of the air tight container. Since aroma beads absorb liquid, this will also better your chances of having an air tight moisture free environment for your soaps to dry and harden.
In addition to the aroma beads, you will want to use drying racks in your containers if possible. Setting your soap directly on top of the aroma beads for long periods of time will also dry out your soaps. The time limit that the soaps can be in the air tight container is 2 hrs. The soaps should also be checked and rotated every 30 minutes.
Some soap crafters use muslin bags to lay their soap out to dry, rotating them once a day. This however will only work if you live in an area that does not have high humidity.
Although there is some debate as to when you can wrap your soap to avoid sweat, the general consensus is to wrap your soaps immediately after unmolding, if you are not storing them in an airtight container. Regardless of whether you are using, plastic wrap or saran wrap (sealed with a heat gun), or shrink wrap, the sooner you get the soaps covered, the less chance glycerin has to draw moisture to the outside of the soap.
Another way to reduce sweat forming on the soap is to allow the soap to cool and harden naturally. You want your soaps to harden at room temperature (70-72 degrees). Even though you can speed up the hardening process by placing your molds in the fridge/freezer, it should NEVER be any longer than 15-20 minutes depending on the size of your mold. Also, this step should never occur right after you poured the hot melted soap in the mold. Wait until your soap has already started to harden. The drastic temperature change from piping hot to freezing cold will lead to soap sweat. And, you never want to completely freeze soap. When the frozen soap thaws, you can almost guarantee soap sweat.
On a closing note, soap sweat does not affect any of the soap's abilities. Soap sweat happens naturally in humid environments that the soap is in. Although using the preventative measures listed above will help to reduce the amount of soap sweat that occurs on your bars of soap, soap sweat may still appear. The humectant agents in your soap are just doing their job, collecting moisture from the air, just as it will to moisturize your skin.
- [How do I Make Soy Soap?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-do-i-make-soy-soap-810006.md):One of the benefits of soy milk is that it hydrates the skin. Moisturizers containing soy milk extracts can make your skin soft and smooth. There have been studies done showing how products containing soy can have many positive effects on the skin. Soy-based moisturizers are perfect for combination skin. Dry skin can get hydrated while decreasing oiliness in other areas! Soy can have softening and smoothing effects while evening out skin tone.
Studies have also been done showing how soy can help in improving the appearance of aging skin, including diminishing fine lines and wrinkles. Soy is not only beneficial to your insides, but to your outsides as well!
What is Melt and Pour Soap
If you are new to melt and pour soap making, you may be wondering what is melt and pour soap. To put it simply, melt and pour soap is a soap based product that is composed of 50% soap and 50% solvents. The soap and solvent balance is especially formulated to absorb additives, such as fragrances and soap colorants. Also,our soap bases are created to be especially soothing for the skin. The melt and pour soap bases are made with no animal fats and they are not tested on animals. Another positive aspect of melt and pour soap is it's ability to be melted and re-melted without losing any of its qualities.
Lastly, unlike cold process or hot process soap making, you can use your melt and pour soap right away! There is absolutely no cure time, which is perfect for those that have no patience! If you are interested in learning more about melt and pour soap and their ingredients follow this link to our web page that will teach you even more!
Benefits of Working With Melt and Pour Soap
If you are interested in learning how to make soap, Melt and Pour soap is always a good place to start. Creating your own luxurious soap has never been easier and it allows for the soap maker to really focus on the aesthetic that makes this soap their own. A fun alternative to cold or hot process soap, melt and pour does not require the use of lye! Creating beautiful bathtime masterpieces is made safe and easy.
We have many types of soaps to work with! You can chose from Goat's Milk, Honey, Cocoa Butter, Oatmeal, Shea Butter, Clear glycerin, Hemp, Mango, SLS free and of course Soy Milk. So many choices! Where do you start? Below, we have eight fun and easy melt and pour soap recipes that would be an awesome addition to your line of soaps. We are sure that you will find something to inspire you to create a beautiful bar of soap that your customers will love!
What Is Soya
Before we get started on our recipes, let's discuss what soya is exactly. Soya Milk comes from, of course, soybeans. To create soya milk, dried soybeans are soaked and then ground into a puree. Once that is completed, the mixture is boiled and lastly, filtered to remove any insoluble residue. Those that are vegan, or vegetarian may know the original form as Tofu. A very popular substitution for meat. Soya Milk has become very popular throughout the world as a comparable substitution for those that are vegan or lactose intolerant.
Soya Milk is chock full of protein, riboflavins, vitamin B-12, fiber and isoflavins. Drinking soya milk can be beneficial for men and women. Studies have been done on the effects of drinking soya milk. These benefits range from helping with weight loss to easing the symptoms of women experiencing menopause to helping prevent prostrate cancer in men.
Soy Recipes
We talked about how good using soy in your diet can be beneficial both inside and out. Well, we helped you out with finding fun soya soap recipes. How about some recipes that use soy based ingredients? From baked goods, entrees and smoothies or milkshakes, follow this link to Soyconnection.com to see how you can incorporate soy into your diet!
So that's all we have today on soya melt and pour soap. We hope you enjoyed reading on all the different ways you can use our skin happy melt and pour soap base. We are here for you anytime you need a question answered about a product or even help in getting some inspiration to create new products! Give us a call anytime or find us on social media! Look for us on Facebook and Instagram and we will help you out to the best of our abilities!
- [How do I Make a Whipped Foam Topping?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-do-i-make-a-whipped-foam-topping-810010.md): We love a foamy, whipped top on many of our melt & pour soap designs. It can dress up a design and it’s the perfect accent for so many food and drink themes, making it perfect for New Year’s Eve soaps! It’s a fairly simple technique with only a few steps. Follow along to create the perfect whipped topping for melt & pour soaps.We asked Kimberly Sanchez of Natures Art if she could explain the properties of soap oils to customers who desire to expand their line into cold process soap.We hope that this information is as enlightening to you as it was to us.
This is not a complete list, Just the most commonly used oils
Apricot Kernel Oil: Apricot kernel oil is a light oil. It absorbs nicely into the skin and is a good luxury conditioning oil in soap - at about 5% -10%.
Almond Oil, Sweet: A moisturizing oil that is very light and absorbs well. In soap it produces a low, stable lather, but is recommended to not use it more than about 5% - 10% in soap - as it's not a hard oil.
Avocado Oil: Avocado oil is a heavy, green, rich, moisturizing oil that has a high percentage of unsaponifiables. It's often used in soap recipes for people with sensitive skin. It's high in vitamins A, D & E. You can use it in your recipes from 5% - 30%
Babassu Oil: Babassu oil comes from the kernels of the babassu palm. Its fatty acid makeup is very similar to palm kernel and to coconut oil. It's high in lauric and myristic acid, which contribute to a nice, fluffy lather.
Canola Oil: Canola, a kind of rapeseed, is a good economical oil for soap making - you can substitute a portion of your olive for canola, or use it as part of your batch at 10-15%. It gives a nice, low, creamy lather and is moisturizing. It will slow down the rate at which your soap will get to trace, so it's a good oil to add if you're doing complicated swirls or colors.
Castor Oil: Castor oil is a thick, clear oil that helps increase the lather in soap - a rich, creamy lather. It's also a humectant (attracts moisture to your skin) oil. Just a little will do...5% - 8% in your recipe will work great.
Cocoa Butter: As it is very hard saturated fat, use with other more unsaturated oils like olive or castor. Use in conjunction with more sticky ingredients such as shea butter or lanolin. Using too much cocoa butter will result in a dry, exceptionally hard bar of soap.
Coconut Oil: Coconut oil is one of the primary oils soapmakers use in their soap. Most of the coconut oil sold and used has a melt point of 76 , but there is a hydrogenated type that melts at 92 . Some soapmakers prefer this one because it's easier to scoop - but either version works the same to give tremendous, bubbly lather to your soap. It also makes for a very hard, white bar of soap. The collective opinion is that using more than 20% coconut oil in your recipe will be drying to the skin.
Corn Oil: It acts like most of the other vegetable liquid oils like soybean or canola. It can be used as part of your recipe (10-15%) and will help give a moisturizing, stable lather.
Grape seed Oil: Grape seed oil is a lightweight, moisturizing oil that is a good additive to soap in small quantities. It doesn't have a long shelf life, so unless you treat it with rosemary oleoresin extract, or have a very low superfat percentage, don't use it more than about 5% in your recipe.
Hazelnut Oil: Hazelnut oil has a short shelf life (3-4 months). If you want to add it to soap, I wouldn't recommend using more than about 5-10% in your recipe because of the short shelf life. A lovely oil, but very fragile.
Hemp Seed Oil: Hemp seed oil is a deep, green color with a light, nutty smell. It gives a light, creamy/silky lather. Because of its fatty acid makeup, it has a very short shelf life...less than six months...so it should be refrigerated or even kept in the freezer. It can be used as a luxury healing/moisturizing oil in soap up to 10%-15%.
Jojoba Oil: Jojoba is actually a liquid wax. It contributes a nice stable lather, has remarkable absorption and moisturizing qualities and unlike some of the other luxury moisturizing oils, has a very long shelf life - 1-2 years. Use it at 5-10% maximum.
Lard: Lard makes a super-hard, very white bar of soap with a low, creamy, stable lather that is, believe it or not, nicely moisturizing. Before vegetable oils were commonly available, it was one of the main fats (along with beef tallow) that folks used to make soap. If you use animal oils in your soap, then combining lard with some of the other liquid oils like coconut and olive makes a wonderful, well balanced bar of soap - and is really economical. Make sure your lard is fresh and of high quality. Use it at any percentage in your recipe, but I recommend not much more than 30-40% or so. Cold process laundry soap can be made with 100% lard with a 0% superfat percentage.
Olive Oil: Extra virgin and virgin olive oils come from the very first gentle pressing of the olives. The refined, or Grade A oil comes from the second pressing, and is lightly refined/filtered. 100% olive oil makes the famous "Castille soap" and "Marseille soap" must contain at least 72% olive oil. Olive oil is generally the #1 oil in most soap makers' recipes. Olive oil soaps are very moisturizing, make hard, white bars of soap and are exceptionally mild. But the lather from Castille soap is low and a bit slimy. Most soap makers combine olive oil with other oils to improve the lather. Pomace grade olive oil is a thick, rich, green grade of olive oil that is obtained by solvent extraction of the fruit and pits of the olives - what's left over after the first several pressings that give the virgin and Grade A oils. It has a very high level of unsaponifiables (the portions of the oil that don't react with the lye to form soap.) This will make your trace time quicker.
Macadamia Nut Oil: Macadamia nut oil is a light oil with a mild nutty odor. It is unique in its fatty acid makeup in that it contains palmitoleic acid - which makes it really easily absorbed into the skin - and is reported to be really great for older skin.
Palm Oil: Palm oil, along with olive and coconut, is one of the top oils used by soap makers today. Because of the qualities it gives soap - a hard bar with a rich creamy lather.
Palm Kernel Oil: Though it comes from the same plant/nut as palm oil does, palm kernel oil is almost identical in its soap making properties to coconut oil - giving a nice hard white bar of soap...with lots of luscious lather. Palm kernel oil is often available partially hydrogenated, in easy to handle/measure flakes...or just as a standard liquid oil. You can use it up to about 30% or 35% in your recipes. However, like palm oil, palm kernel oil is surrounded by the same environmental and human concerns.
Rice Bran Oil: Expressed from the husks of rice, most soap makers found that rice bran oil imparted nearly the same creamy, moisturizing qualities that olive oil did to their soaps. It does have a lot of the same antioxidants and vitamins that olive has, and a similar fatty acid make up. The only disadvantage of rice bran oil is its short shelf life - (6 months or so.)
Safflower Oil: Its fairly short shelf life. You can certainly use it in your recipes like you would soybean, canola or sunflower - at 5-15% or so. In soap, it is mild and moisturizing.
Shea Butter: Moisturizing and nourishing. Fairly inexpensive and easy to find. Shea butter for soap making will add a wonderful creamy lather, great conditioning properties and some hardness to your soap.
Soybean Oil: Soybean oil, like canola, safflower and sunflower, is often used as a portion of a soap making recipe in combination with other "core" oils like coconut, olive and palm. Use it 5-15% of your soap recipe. It is mild, moisturizing and gives a low, creamy lather.
Shortening: Soybean oil, in its hydrogenated form is generally called vegetable shortening & sold under generic names, or the brand Crisco. Shortening is usually a blend of soybean & cottonseed oil, and makes nice soap. Like all soap making oils, except olive, it's not a great oil to use alone, but combining it with olive & coconut makes a good, stable, bubbly, moisturizing bar of soap. I recommend not using over 15% as it can go rancid in higher amounts.
Sunflower Oil: It works well with palm and olive oils to give a nice, rich, creamy lather that's very moisturizing. Depending on the type you get, it may have a short shelf life due to its fatty acid makeup. In soap, it does well up to about 25% .
Tallow, Beef: Like lard, beef tallow gives you a super-hard, white bar of soap with low, creamy, stable lather that is very moisturizing. Before vegetable oils were commonly available, it was one of the main fats that folks used to make soap - and remains one of the most common oils in soap. (Check your label for sodium tallowate. That's beef tallow.) If you are o.k. using animal oils in your soap, then combining beef tallow with some of the other liquid oils like coconut & olive makes a wonderful, well balanced bar of soap. While you can use it at any percentage in your recipe, I wouldn't recommend much more than 40% before it starts creating a brittle bar of soap.
In the simplest sense, a fragrance oil is a liquid containing blended aromatic and non-aromatic ingredients. They can contain synthetic and/or natural essential oils. With direct connections with formulators from the largest fragrance houses in the world, we stock thousands of unique never diluted fragrance oils between WSP, EBB, JS, MYOB & Rustic. A majority of the fragrances can be used in soap making, candle making, diffusers, lotions, soaks, steamers, bath bombs, shampoos, conditioners, pet products and more.
Wholesale Supplies Plus also carries Fragrance Oil and Essential Oil Blends that are popular scents for soap-making and handmade cosmetics. They are fragrances enhanced with the benefits of essential oils, and in some cases mostly essential oils with a splash of fragrance. Popular blends include citrus, herbal and rich base notes.
Wholesale Supplies Plus carries a very small group of water-soluble fragrance oils that are designed to instantly blend with water based products. No Modifiers or Polysorbate required.
Wholesale Supplies Plus also carries the Crafter's Choice Natural Aromatic Oils. The Natural Fragrances are plant-based aromatics that are produced using pure essential oils and aromatic isolates derived solely from natural, raw botanical sources. All oils are certified to be free of synthetic ingredients. Certificates of Natural are available on each product’s store page.
Pure Essential Oils can be found on the WSP, EBB & MYOB sites. They are 100% Pure Essential Oil purchased from growers, processors and distillers that agree to our request for total transparency and supplying our industry with 100% pure products. WSP offers an online certificate of compliance and GCMS analysis with each Essential Oil.
Note: Many companies will offer a Gas Chromatography/Mass Spectrometry, or GC/MS analysis for each essential oil. This certificate or report is an analytical method that combines the features of gas chromatography and mass spectrometry to identify different substances within a sample component matrix. It basically verifies the purity of each essential oil.
WSP has an online fragrance calculator, which makes it easy to determine the exact amount of fragrance to add to a product. This calculator only works with fragrance/essential oils, flavor oils, naturals and blends that are found on the WSP website.
To use, just launch the fragrance calculator on the WSP website and respond to questions 1-4. Once complete, click Calculate to determine the amount of your product.
Note: There are some fragrances that are part of the fragrance formulator line that are not included in the calculator. This is because the formulator fragrances are meant to be mixed to form a custom blend. In this case, you can still determine the amount of fragrance to add by following the simple guidelines that follow.
**In addition, too much fragrance will eventually leach/seep out of the product and when it combines with the fixed oils in the product can give off a rancid or putrid smell and leave drops of oil on top of your product.
Vanilla is a flavor that is derived from orchids. Vanilla pods start out very green and then darken to brown as they age and ripen. The darkening is caused by various reactions in some of the components. One of those is vanillin, which is the organic compound that gives vanilla its flavor. While vanilla can add an amazing smell to your product, you should be aware of two common issues and the workarounds that follow:
- [Common Questions on Fragrance & Essential Oils](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/common-questions-on-fragrance-essential-oils-809839.md):
(Q) Are all your fragrance oils considered Vegan?
(A) Yes, they are considered Vegan.
(Q) Are all your fragrance oils paraben & phthalate free?
(A) Yes, our fragrances are paraben & phthalate free.
(Q) Are all your fragrance oils alcohol-free?
(A) We do not add alcohol to our fragrance oils. However, alcohol may be part of a sub-compound ingredient used in the manufacturing of a fragrance oil.
(Q) The SDS sheet says, “Avoid contact with strong acids, alkali or oxidizing agents.” Does this mean that your fragrances can’t be used with lye for CP soap?
(A) A majority of our fragrances are formulated to be compatible in soap making. The statement means that if the fragrance is added directly to a strong acid, it may react and change in aroma. This does not necessarily mean that the fragrance will cause an eruptive reaction when added to a batch of CP soap at trace.
(Q) What are the ingredients in your fragrance oils?
(A) Since fragrances are synthetic compounds and are not Certified Essential Oils, we do not know the complete ingredient list. It is a proprietary blend and our manufacturer will not disclose this information to us. Our SDS sheets has some ingredients listed; however, if this is an area of concern for the customer, then we would recommend that they use naturals or essential oils instead.
(Q) What are fragrance notes, and why are they important?
(A) Fragrances are a combination of ingredients that unfold over time with an immediate top note, deeper middle note and final base note.
(Q) Are fragrance oils natural or synthetic?
(A) They can be either and can be both. There are totally synthetic fragrance oils. There are fragrance oils made with some natural essential oils, and there are some fragrances that are made with 100% natural ingredients.
(Q) If a fragrance is 100% natural, does that mean it is made with only essential oils?
(A) It means that the fragrance is 100% natural. In recent years, there has been great advancements in technology that has allowed us to obtain natural aromatic compounds that are not essential oils.
(Q) How do I find out the exact ingredients in my fragrance oil?
(A) Fragrance oils are considered proprietary trademarks and protected by federal law. The exact ingredients are only known to the owner of the formulation.
(Q) Some places carry manufacturers and cosmetic grade fragrance oils. What does this mean?
(A) These are not industry terms, but instead marketing terms. I would imagine that one grade is strong, and another grade is diluted. Since Wholesale Supplies Plus only sells concentrated oils, you are best to call the place that sells different grades and ask them what they mean by these terms.
(Q) What are water-soluble fragrance oils?
(A) Water-soluble fragrance oils are fragrances formulated to be easily incorporated into water-based products
(Q) What is the difference between Peppermint Re-distilled EO and Peppermint Natural EO?
(A) Peppermint Re-distilled has been distilled 3x at a higher pressure to give it a peppermint candy smell while Peppermint Natural goes through one distillation which results in a more herbal, minty scent.
(Q) What is the difference between Lavender 30/32 & Lavender 40/42?
(A) Those number represent the concentrated amount of linalool and linalyl acetate found within the oil. Linalool & linalyl acetate are naturally occurring phytochemicals that are found in many flowers and spice plants. When comparing the Lavender 30/32 to Lavender 40/42, the 30/32 contains less linalool or linalyl acetate. By lowering the l/l levels, the aromatic notes in Lavender 30/32 smell much cleaner and less medicinal.
(Q) What is the difference between Eucalyptus 80/82 & Eucalyptus 80/85?
(A) Those numbers represent the cineol content found within the oil. The cineol content is the amount of fragrance that a particular natural chemical gives off. The 80/82 is the percentage, thus stating 80-82%. The 80/85 would be 80-85%. So, the higher the number, the stronger the fragrance it gives off. The Eucalyptus 80/85 has a strong minty aroma, while the 80/82 has a camphorous minty aroma.
(Q) What is the difference between Essential Oils and Absolutes?
(A) The difference between Essential Oils and Absolutes are in the way they are extracted. Absolutes tend to be more concentrated and therefore have a stronger smell. If the recipe calls for one in particular, they are NOT interchangeable. The recipe would need to be followed in that case.
(Q) What if the difference between Essential Oils and Fragrances?
(A) The difference between Essential Oils and Fragrances are that Essential Oils are natural oils extracted from the plant. They consist of entirely pure plant oils and resins, while fragrances are lab made synthetic compounds. Essential Oils are also more concentrated and tend to be stronger than Fragrances.
(Q) How are we to know that your Essential Oils are pure?
(A) We use several labs to certify our oils. We send our samples out and the lab runs numerous tests to determine the quality. The results we get only indicate the percent of Essential Oils and resins present in the oil. In addition, all of our oils contain a GC (Gas Chromatography Report) to help identify the purity of the substance. Lastly, all of our Essential Oils have a certificate of natural attesting to its compliance.
(Q) Are any of your Essential Oils considered photo-toxic?
(A) The main culprits causing photo-toxicity are the oils from the citrus family, when they are extracted by direct expression and without distillation. There are however some oils, like lemon, which still remains photo toxic even after distillation. Should an oil contain a very small amount of bergaptene or 5 methoxypsolaren (5 MOP) -normally below 0.000075% the effect will not be pronounced such as sweet orange oil, which contains only 0.00005%. Oils like bergamot, lime and bitter orange are severely photo-toxic when used undiluted, but should they be used in very low dilutions.
The following essential oils are phototoxic, although in varying degrees:
Bergamot (Citrus bergamia)
Bitter Orange (Citrus x aurantium)
Grapefruit (Citrus x paradisi)
Lemon, cold pressed (Citrus x aurantium)
Lime, cold pressed (Citrus x aurantifolia)
Opopanax (Commiphora guidotti)
The following citrus essential oils are not phototoxic, contrary to popular thought:
Lemon, steam distilled (Citrus x limon)
Lime, steam distilled (Citrus x aurantifolia)
Mandarin (Citrus reticulata)
Sweet Orange (Citrus sinensis)
Tangerine (Citrus reticulata, Citrus nobilis)
furanocoumarin/bergapten-free Bergamot (Citrus bergamia)
(Q) What does proprietary mean?
(A) The word proprietary indicates that a party has private ownership, control or use over an item of property.
(Q) What does trade secret mean?
(A) A trade secret is information that is not generally known to the public and holds economic benefit to the owner.
(Q) What does flash point mean and why it is important?
(A) The flash point of a flammable liquid is the lowest temperature at which it can form an ignitable mixture in air. It is critical in air transportation due to air compression. At this temperature, the vapor may cease to burn when the source of ignition is removed. Any fragrance or essential oil with a flash point 141º F or less can only fly if a hazmat certificate is filed. Any fragrance or essential oil with a flash point under 100º F must have a hazmat certificate filed for ground. USPS has further restrictions pertaining to the quantity of oil that can go in one box. Do you remember years ago when a plane exploded in air over the Florida Everglades? I believe they found that it was due to items in the cargo area that were undocumented with a low flash point. After that, the FAA really cracked down. Flash point does not necessarily correlate with aromatic volatility. For example, there are many fragrances that have a lower flash point and perform wonderfully in bases with higher temperatures. This is because (assuming they are immediately and quickly incorporated into the base) the aromatics are trapped, and they cannot molecularly move through the base. There are some oils with a low flash point that have a weakened scent when added to hot bases. This is more related to the aromatic volatility than flash point. For example, Frankincense has a flash point of 95º F and is thought to be fairly strong stays very strong in products such as CP soap while orange oil has a flash point around 115º, and it weakens fairly quickly and significantly.
(Q) Why are your bottle s of scents/flavors not filled to the top?
(A1) At WSP bottles are actually slightly larger and are designed to allow for air space. Each bottle is filled and sold by volume which means that we fill each bottle to a specific point. It is considered filled by volume when the liquid reaches the shoulder before the bottle neck.
(A2) At MYOB, EBB, JS & Rustic, the scents are filled by weight. The amount of fragrance you will receive will vary depending on the weight of the fragrance.
(Q) I found a cheaper Vanilla Cream fragrance and bought it elsewhere. It smells terrible. How can two fragrances have the same name and smell so different?
(A) Our bottles are actually slightly larger and are designed to allow for air space. Each bottle is filled and sold by volume. It is considered filled by volume when the liquid reaches the shoulder before the bottle neck.
Also remember that a fragrance name is just that: a name. It is very common to have fragrances designed under one name and then later changed to another name. For example, Wholesale Supplies Plus once tested a fragrance called Good Night Dreams and renamed it Viva la Diva because we felt it was a better reflection of the aroma and the new name would appeal to more buyers.
When it comes to price, remember that Wholesale Supplies Plus only sells pure concentrated Crafter’s Choice Fragrance Oils while our sister sites (EBB, JS & Rustic) fragrances are more affordably prices because they are geared more towads candle making
(Q) I have purchased one of the Crafter’s Choice “Comparable” or “Type” fragrance oils. Can I call my product by the same name?
(A) The law is fairly clear in that you cannot create a product for the purpose of creating confusion in the market. You can have your own product and can legally compare to another product on the market. We recommend you brand your product a different name and then “compare it to” the item you wish to compare. If you are selling “comparable” products, you will want to contact an attorney in your area to ensure you are following your state and federal laws.
(Q) How do I find out if a name is already trademarked for use in soap, lotions or candles?
(A) Go to the US Patent and Trademark website and choose “trademarks”. From there you can perform a basic search. The US Patent and Trademark website is as follows: US Patent & Trademark
- [Understanding the effects of Vanillin in Fragrance Oils](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/understanding-the-effects-of-vanillin-in-fragrance-oils-809841.md):
Vanilla is a flavor that is derived from orchids. The Vanilla pods start out very green and then darken to brown as they age and ripen. The darkening is caused by various reactions in some components. One of those is vanillin, which is the organic compound that gives vanilla its flavor. While vanilla can add an amazing smell to your product, you should be aware of two common issues and the workarounds that follow:
Vanilla can cause discoloration in your soap and cosmetic products. Vanillin discoloration is a 100% natural process. Depending on the percentage in the fragrance, the soap/cosmetic can discolor anywhere from off-white to dark brown. It usually takes a few days to appear, although certain scents may not discolor for a few weeks. Discoloration shows up first on the part of soap/cosmetic that’s exposed to air. That means the exterior of the finished product may discolor, but once you cut into the soap bars or get to the center of the cosmetic is still its original color. Eventually, the entire product will darken. The VCS will help to slow the browning, but will not prevent it all together.
Caution: Adding too much titanium dioxide can cause glycerin rivers in CP Soap. To prevent, we recommend a 5-10% water discount to help prevent glycerin rivers. Also, be sure to soap around 115-120ºF and store soap in a cool place.
- [What is a Carrier Oil?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-is-a-carrier-oil-809843.md):
What is a Carrier Oil?
These are all the natural cosmetic oils that you can use in your homemade recipes. They are perfect for creating homemade soap, crafting a skin-loving lotion recipe, and making many of the other kinds of cosmetic recipes. So, knowing about these oils is important for creating the types of bath and body products that you need!
Making Soap Supplies
If you are looking for a good recipe for making soap, then it is going to have some carrier oils in it. Anyone making soap from scratch knows that the carrier oils you choose can influence the quality of your bars. So, these ingredients are essential for cold process soap recipes. You can see specifics on how each oil affects the soap on our Soaping Oil Properties. Even melt and pour soap recipes can benefit by adding some carrier oils to the soap base, which is often done to make the bar more conditioning to the skin.
Lotion Making
Also, our bulk carrier oils can be used to create an amazing homemade lotion recipe. These are the oils that we include to nourish and moisturize your skin. In fact, the oils are what do the majority of the skin care in lotions. While you can use butters along with your oils, they can lead to a thicker cream or even a body butter. So, lighter lotions need key carrier oils to perform effectively!
Using Essential Oils
Although essential oils are natural, they aren t safe to put directly on your skin. Plus, adding a carrier oil will help hold on to the aroma longer than on its own. So, it is actually beneficial for your scent to mix an essential oil with a carrier oil before applying. One of the best carrier oils for essential oils would have to be Sweet Almond Oil or Argan Oil.
Kinds of Carrier Oils
There are many different kinds of carrier oils that you can mix together for your recipes. Depending on your skin type or level of dryness, you may want to have lighter or heavier oils. Also, some oils are better for face lotions or for foot care. So, the blend of carrier oils that you want varies based on your product and its purpose.
Apricot Kernel Oil
First, we have Apricot Kernel Oil, an oil that is light and excellent for skin care. While this oil is light enough to not block pores, it is conditioning enough to be a luxurious oil for cp soap. It's great for making lotions that don t leave a greasy feeling and skin into the skin. Also, its perfect in soap because the oil will sink into the skin quickly to fully moisturize the skin. We ve used this wonderful oil in many bath and body recipes, including the Chamomile Light Lotion Recipe and the Strawberries and Champagne CP Soap Recipe.
Argan Oil
Next, we have an oil that is amazing for skin care. Argan Oil is easily absorbed into the skin and won t leave a greasy feeling on your skin. Plus, this cosmetic oil allows your skin to breathe and doesn t block pores. In fact, this ingredient is used in many acne-fighting recipes. We included this oil in a few cosmetic recipes, like the Argan Soap Recipe and the Sour Watermelon Sugar Scrub Cubes Recipe. In our cp soap recipe, this oil increased the lather and nourished the skin beautifully.
Avocado Oil
Also, adding Avocado Oil to your homemade recipes is a perfect way to increase the moisturizing ability of your product. This cosmetic ingredient is a heavy oil that is perfect for providing dry, damaged skin with the nourishment it deserves. Plus, the high level of unsaponifiable fatty acids and high vitamin content make this skin-sensitive oil great for adding some extra conditioning power to your soap bars, which you can see in the Gentle Avocado Cold Process Soap Recipe.
Castor Oil
Another great oil for your homemade cosmetic recipes is Castor Oil. Not only is this oil thick and perfect for nourishing dry, damaged skin, but this oil is a humectant. This means that oil will pull moisture to it, which will further moisturize your skin as it absorbs. Perfect for creating lotions for feet, like the Natural Salve Recipe , which are often one of the most damaged areas of skin. While this oil would provide some conditioning properties and a rich, creamy lather, it can make your soap sticky. So, avoid adding too much of this oil in your cp soap formulations. By limiting the amount of Castor Oil, we were able use the beneficial properties without as many drawbacks, like with our St Pattys Day Cold Process Soap Recipe as well as many other soaps.
Coconut Oil
Coconut Oil is a great oil for skin that sinks in well and is perfect for scrub recipes like the Foaming Hibiscus Scrub Recipe. Also, this sensitive oil is perfect to add to lip balm supplies for making recipes like the Kahlua and Cream Lip Balm Recipe. For soapmaking, this oil provides a hard bar with a bubbly lather that is cleansing. Many find that adding more than 20% of this oil is drying for the skin, so some people may include more conditioning oils to the recipe or even super fat the formula to include more oils.
Grapeseed Oil
Another fantastic oil for bath and body recipes is Grapeseed Oil. This oil is perfect for cosmetic supplies because it is a lightweight moisturizer that is effective without being too greasy for the skin. So, this oil is perfect for creating lotions sensitive enough for the face, like our Natural Facial Night Cream Recipe. Also, this oil is perfect for soap-making, like our Raspberry CP Soap Recipe. This oil is moisturizing, and even anti-acne, for soap but it doesn't leave a greasy, heavy oil feeling on the skin.
Jojoba Oil
While Jojoba Oil is technically a liquid wax, it is still fantastic for skin care products. This cosmetic ingredient is perfect for everything from lotions like our Shea Lotion with Herbal Infusion Recipe to lip care products like our Green Apple Lip Balm Recipe. In your soap recipes, this cosmetic ingredient is just as conditioning as luxury oils. But, this oil has a longer shelf life.
Lanolin Oil
Lanolin Oil is a great cosmetic oil that is wonderful for moisturizing and protecting damaged hair and dry skin. This oil contains very few saponifiables, so it maintains its conditioning properties and provides the bar with a silky feeling. So, we used this wonderful oil in our Strawberries and Champagne CP Soap Recipe. Also, you can use lanoin in a solid form, which still absorbs well and is great for protecting damaged skin. This thicker oil has all of the same beneficial properties and can even be used in soaps, like our Beard Soap Recipe.
Macadamia Nut Oil
Next, we have Macadamia Nut Oil, which is an oil that is light and perfectly absorbs into the skin. This non-greasy oil is perfect for creating lotions, like our Almond Body Cream Recipe. Also, this oil is perfect for adding conditioning properties to your soap and is even great for mature skin types. So, we included this oil in our Lavender Cold Process Soap Recipe.
Meadowfoam Seed Oil
Another great oil that skins into the skin beautifully is Meadowfoam Seed Oil. Not only does this oil work to repair damaged skin, but it has a long shelf life due to its high level of antioxidants. So, it worked wonderfully in our Honey Vanilla Lip Balm Recipe. Also, this cosmetic oil can be used to superfat soap, reduce rancidity, and increase the fragrance's lifespan. So, this oil was a great addition to our Raspberry CP Soap Recipe.
Olive Oil
Olive Oil is often a top choice for soapers, because it is very conditioning, helps harden the bar, and creates a mild bar of soap. While some soapmakers may use only olive oil in Castille soap or mostly olive oil in Marseille soap, it makes the bar a bit slimy and barely has a lather. So, many soapers will combine this oil with others to create a great soap recipe, like in our Creamy Cocoa Craziness Cold Process Soap Recipe..
Palm Oil
Next, we have another great oil for creating soaps, which is Palm Oil. This soap making ingredient creates a hard, white bar that has a rich, creamy lather. We have used this wonderfully cleansing oil in many recipes, like our Calendula Swirl Soap Recipe and our Beer Cold Process Soap Recipe.
Pumpkin Seed Oil
Pumpkin Seed Oil is rich in vitamins and minerals, which provide great properties for the skin. This oil sinks into the skin without leaving oily residue to repair damaged skin. So, it was a perfect addition to our Pumpkin Sugar Scrub Recipe.
Rice Bran Oil
Rice Bran Oil has benefits similar to Olive Oil, so it is conditioning and great for soaps! So, we included this lovely soaping oil in our Wine Cold Process Soap Recipe as well as other great cp soap recipes. Plus, this rich, conditioning bar is perfect for both mature and sensitive skin types.
Safflower Oil
Also, we have a nourishing and skin-loving oil that is perfect for homemade products. Safflower Oil is moisturizing and nourishing for the skin, so we included it in many soap recipes and our own Hair Conditioner For Redheads Recipe.
Sesame Seed Oil
Another great cosmetic oil is Sesame Seed Oil, which is a light cosmetic ingredient full of nutrients for the skin. We include this lovely oil in recipes like our Giraffe Bubble Bars Recipe or our Beard Balm Recipe. Also, this oil can be used in cp soap to help slow trace, nourish the skin, and provide a silky lather.
Sunflower Oil
Also, Sunflower Oil works well with palm oil and olive oils to provide a rich creamy lather. Plus, this oil is very moisturizing and will provide a silky feel to the soaps. So, this is perfect for adding to our soap recipes and bath products, like our Natural Beet Root Lip Gloss Recipe.
Sweet Almond Oil
Lastly, we have a light oil that will perfectly absorb into the skin Sweet Almond Oil. So, it was a great choice for bath and body recipes like Tranquility Bath Melts Recipe or Fruity Rings Emulsified Sugar Scrub Recipe. Plus, this oil is perfect for adding some conditioning properties to your soaps.
My Oil Solidified
You may find that your cosmetic oil has solidified, this is because the melt point is slightly above room temperature. Luckily, this is easy to fix. All you have to do is set your bottle in a bowl of warm water until the oil melts again.
Reach Out to Us
We hope that you were able to find some carrier oils that you enjoy for your bath and body products. Not only are there many to choose from, but there are many combinations that you can try for your recipes. Just start with your favorites and build from there! If you have anymore questions about these oils and how they will work in your recipes, then reach out to us. An easy way to get in contact with us is to reach out on social media. We are on Facebook and Instagram.
- [What Is 'Manufacturer's Grade' Fragrance Oil?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-is-manufacturer-s-grade-fragrance-oil-809845.md): Some fragrance oil suppliers promote their fragrance oils as being ‘Manufacturer’s Grade.’ Choosing fragrance oil that is labeled as ‘Manufacturer’s Grade’ sounds like an easy decision. But what does this actually mean? The honest answer is that this is nothing more than marketing hype. There is no formally accepted grading scale for synthetic fragrance oils. We could create a label for our fragrance oils such as ‘AAA Rated for Strength’ or ‘Extreme Scent Throw Grade,’ but this is something we feel is devious and choose not to do. Quite simply, we pay a premium to have our fragrance oils manufactured strong and highly concentrated. We are confident in the performance of our fragrance oils and do not feel the need to use marketing hype in promoting them. - [What Are 'Notes' In Fragrance Oils?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-are-notes-in-fragrance-oils-809846.md):A fragrance is divided into 3 distinct parts: top note, middle note, and base note. Each of these usually has an assortment of ingredients.
If you have ever asked yourself and been unsure how to answer the question "How much fragrance do I add to this cosmetic or candle making recipe?", then this is the perfect craft blog for you! We would like to help you learn about essential oil and fragrance oil usage rates. So, you can know exactly how to scent your own homemade candles and cosmetic recipes. Not only will we provide a bit more insight on both our recommendations and IFRA's, but we will help you figure out how to calculate the amount of scent you need for your homemade craft recipes. So, let's get started!
What is the Usage Rate Used for?
Simply, the usage rate for a scent tells you how much of a scent you can add to your homemade candle and soap recipes. The usage rate is given in the form of a percent, which tells you the percent of this aroma that can be used in your candle, soap, and cosmetic recipes. So, you would take the overall weight of your craft recipe and multiply it by the percent to determine the amount of scent that you can include.
IFRA Usage Rates
What Is IFRA?
If you have never heard of IFRA before, they are a globally recognized organization that manages the safe use of scented oils. These guidelines are based on assessments from the Research Institute For Fragrance Material (RIFM). So, they will determine the amount of a specific scented oil that can be added to a certain product. So, the limits given by IFRA on the certificates are the absolute maximum that you can use in a product and should not be surpassed. Of course, you don't have to add their maximum amount on every occasion. You can add less than this amount. This is the maximum scent limit that you should never go over.
Where Do You Find the IFRA Certificate?
You can find the IFRA data sheet for each one of our scented oils. Each fragrance oil page has a link to its individual IFRA Certificate.
How Do I Read an IFRA Certificate?
The IFRA sheet is broken down into eleven different categories. Each of these categories are based on different types of products. So, you will first need to know the product that you intend to make. The products are separated into categories because they are used different ways either in room scents or on the body. Each category is listed with the maximum level of fragrance that can be added. However, if you below that list, then you will find a description for each of the categories that were listed above. You can use these category descriptions to find where product that you want to make would fit in. Once you have determined which category that you scented product falls into, scroll back up to find the usage rate for that category. This will be the maximum amount of this scent that you can add to your handcrafted recipes.
Example of Reading an IFRA Certificate
For instance, let's say you wanted to create a face mask recipe with the Watermelon Fragrance Oil. You would scroll down and look for this product in the descriptions. A facial recipe would fall under category 5, which you know this because it is in the description for this category. Then, you would need to go back and look at the amount for category 5. For this scented oil, the most that you can add to this cosmetic recipe is 6%. While you can add less than this amount, you can't add any more than the 6% to your facial recipe.
Is There An IFRA Sheet For Essential Oils?
There sure is! For each individual essential oil you can find an IFRA Certificate in the same area of the description that you would find in the fragrance oil description.
Adding More or Less Than 5% Fragrance Oil
So, can you add more than our recommend scent amounts without ruining your products? Technically, yes when the IFRA allows it. But, you will need to experiment to ensure that your products maintain their integrity. Remember that just because you can do something doesn't mean that its a great idea. We find that adding more than 5% of fragrance oil, when IFRA allow for it is just too much fragrance oil in soap. So, we will never suggest that you use more than 5% of the fragrance in our homemade soap recipes. On the other hand, there are some fragrance oils that have lower usage rates. Below, we will talk about both scenarios.
Can I Add Above 5% Fragrance Oil?
While we rarely recommend that you use above 5%, but you will sometimes find that the IFRA will permit you to use more. For some, this difference can make it confusing as to what amount to use in their products. IFRA does not take into consideration the quality of the product. Their recommendation simply means that you have the ability to add scent up to that amount without irritating the skin.
What If The IFRA Has No Restriction?
Another difference between our recommendation and the data sheet is when IFRA has no restriction for adding the scent to bath and body products. However, it wouldn't make sense to add 100% or 99% fragrance oil to your soap recipe. Think about it for a second. If you went to that extreme, you wouldn't have a bar of soap.
Why Is The Usage Rate Below 5% for Fragrance?
Although our maximum usage rate for making soap is 5%, not all fragrances can be added at this high of an amount. If you check the IFRA sheet for this scented oil, you would find that category 9, which includes soap, and the carrot cake scent can only include up to 1%. While your homemade soap has the potential to carry more fragrance oil, you shouldn't add any more than the 1% amount. This scent can only be included up to 1% according to the IFRA's standards and anymore could irritate the skin. So, we provide a recommendation that is in compliance with IFRA at 1% usage rate for the carrot cake scent.
Need More Help With Percents?
If you aren't necessarily math inclined, then you may benefit from practicing a bit more with percents. The Percentages in Real Life article from GCF Global will walk you through a few different situations that involved using percents. These real world situations use the same method as calculating the usage rate, so this practice will definitely help with craft making. Plus, you can use this knowledge to better navigate sales tax, markdowns in retail, and calculating a tip at a restaurant. So, you will definitely want to check this page out if you need the practice!
Any Questions?
We hope that you have learned something new about how to add scented oils to your candle and soap recipes! If you have any more questions then feel free to reach out to us to ask your questions. You can talk to us on the phone and online. An easy way to reach us online is through our social media. First, we are available on Facebook and Instagram. Not only can you use these social media platforms to ask us any questions that you may have, but you can share your own scented craft recipes, too! So, we hope that we hear from you sometime very soon!
- [What are Fragrance Oils Made Of?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-are-fragrance-oils-made-of-809842.md):Fragrance oils are a mixture composed of essential oils, synthetic aroma chemicals, and aromatic resins. In order to achieve the scent that a perfumist is trying to achieve, the perfumist has more than 3000 different fragrance ingredients that he may use (natural and synthetic). These ingredients come in the form of liquid, powder, or crystalline. In order for a perfumist to be able to dissolve the powder and/or crystalline ingredients into liquid oil, he must use solvents. A common solvent that has been used for over 50 years is DEP (Di Ethyl Phthalate). While this solvent has been declared as safe by even the most intense worldwide standards, many companies, decided years ago to only add fragrance oils to our line that were phthalate-free .
Although solvents are a necessary component in fragrance oil production, some companies may sell fragrance oils that contain diluents: cutting agents that ultimately reduce the strength of a fragrance oil. A common diluent is DPG (Di Propylene Glycol). Important note to anyone who is using fragrance oils for candle making or soap making: Never use fragrance oils that contain DPG for these applications. DPG prevents a candle from burning correctly, and is one of the main reasons that Cold Process Soap seizes. Although diluents should not be used for candle making or soap making, they are a necessary ingredient to use when making incense/potpourri (cones, sticks, and liquid). Another example of the need to use diluents is when making candles with essential oils. Some essential oils may need to be thinned out with a diluent so that they can properly travel up the wick and burn correctly. Typical diluents added to essential oils for this purpose are: iso Propyl Myristate, or di-Octyl Adipate. Neither of these diluents are natural, but are effective for this purpose. According to our perfumist, in order to create natural candles, fractionated coconut oil may be used as a diluent for essential oils; however, we have not personally tested this. As stated above: Never add DPG to essential oils for candle making or soap making. It is up to you to add diluents to them when making candles.
So, how does a perfumist create a fragrance oil? We know that fragrance oils are a mix of essential oils, synthetic aromatic chemicals, and resins. We know that a perfumist must use the proper solvents to dissolve powder and crystalline ingredients into the fragrance oil. A perfumist can either duplicate an aroma by use of gas chromatographic (GC)-mass spectrometric (GC-MS) (which shows him the ingredients contained in a fragrance), or he can create a unique fragrance oil by combining the right combinations of top, middle, and base notes.
Top notes are the fragrance aromas that you smell when you first open the bottle. This is because they tend to evaporate the quickest of other notes used in fragrance manufacturing. Perfumists typically use between 15-25% of top notes in fragrance production. Common examples of top notes are: Lemon, Orange, Mandarin, Grapefruit, Basil, Bergamot, Cardamom, Clary Sage, Coriander, Eucalyptus, Juniper, Neroli, Peppermint, Pine, Tea Tree, Thyme, and Lavender.
Middle notes provide the body of the fragrance, and are smelled after the top notes have faded. Perfumists typically use 30-40% middle notes when creating a fragrance oil. Examples of middle notes are: Chamomile, Cedar, Cinnamon, Clove, Frankincense, Geranium, Rose, Ylang Ylang, Palma Rosa, Jasmine, and Marjoram.
Base notes are the notes that tend to linger in the air, and are smelled last. Base notes, such as musk, are the ingredients that give a fragrance staying power . Without the use of base notes, fragrance notes will evaporate very quickly and not provide ample scent throw. A perfumist typically uses 40-55% base notes in the formulation of a fragrance. Base notes, such as musk, are one of the most expensive components in fragrance production. Without the proper use of these ingredients, fragrance will not last very long. Examples of base notes are: Musk, Benzoin, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, and Vetiver.
It is important to understand that even though a perfumist has high-tech machinery at his disposal to analyze the components of a smell , perfumery is an art, reserved for individuals with the talent of blending fragrance notes to create beautiful fragrance accords. Perfumery is a science and a real art. Fragrance oils are protected under the trade secret clause of the FDA, therefore, perfumists never disclose a full ingredient list of the art that they created. When selling a product in the US that is governed by the FDA, one must simply state the word fragrance on the label. Ingredients of your product must be listed in descending order according to weight; which usually (but not always) means that fragrance is listed as one of the last ingredients on your label.
The alternative to fragrance oils is essential oils. Although essential oils are natural and may provide therapeutic benefits, there are several drawbacks to using essential oils that should be mentioned: 1. The cost of essential oils are typically much higher than fragrance oils, 2. Essential oil prices can fluctuate based on weather, crops, and the trade relationships between countries, 3. Essential oils are not as sustainable as fragrance oils, 4. Essential oils do not provide the variety of scents that fragrance oils provide. You will never get a vanilla essential oil, a blueberry muffin essential oil, or a strawberry essential oil; only fragrance oils can provide these scents, 5. Essential oils can cause just as many allergic reactions as fragrance oils (perhaps even more). In fact, if the EU is successful at preventing known allergens from being contained in perfumes, many of the most well-known perfumes will need to be reformulated without essential oils. The majority of the 26 known allergens on the EU list are from natural sources; 16 are essential oil constituents and two are absolutes. While the debate continues on whether you should use fragrance oils or essential oils in your finished products, we carry fragrance oils, recyled fragrance oils, natural fragrance oils, and essential oils (for those who want all-natural scents). Regardless of whether you choose fragrance oil or essential oil, scent sells products. Not only do scents allow people to smell nice, scents also have the ability to create memories. What happy memories do you have with certain scents? I'm certain you have many.
- [Understanding Volume versus Weight](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/understanding-volume-versus-weight-809840.md):From time-to-time, we may receive a call regarding a shortage on a fragrance oil bottle. This tends to be a recurring question throughout the year. Some people may be confused by the vast difference between weight and volume, especially when it comes to the Crafter's Choice fragrance oils and how they are packed while others may just question why the fragrance bottle is not filled to the top.
Our fragrances have diffent measurements depending on the brand. While the Crafters Choice Brand is filled by volume; the EBB, Rustic, MYOB & Just Scent brands are filled by weight.
Same weight (oz), different density=different volume (fl. oz)
Below are a few good examples, as well as differences between the two forms of measurement (volume versus weight).
Weight measures the heaviness or mass of an object: If you weigh a pound of feathers, and you weigh a pound of bricks, they are both equal to a pound.
Note: Crafter's Choice fragrance drums are sold by weight - the 25 lb drum will include the actual weight of the drum per our manufacturer's processing policy.
Fragrance oils from Rustic Escentuals, MakeYourOwn.Buzz, Just Scent, and Elements Bath & Body are sold by weight; shelf stock/non-bulk sizes will not include the weight of the bottle.
WSP
WSP fragrance/flavor/essential oils are sold by volume (fl. oz) rather than weight (oz), the oils will have different weights depending on the density of the oil (some will have more than expected, while some will have less than expected. Since the fragrance is filled by volume, the fragrance should be filled to the light blue band at the top of the bottle. You can find density information on the SDS on each product's store page (section 9). You can calculate the expected weight of any oil by using this information.
MYOB/Rustic/EBB/JS
All fragrance bottles are filled by weight. The weight of the fragrance will vary depending on the thickness of the oil. Did you happen to weight the bottles?
WSP & MYOB Fragrances are packed in amber glass bottles. The Amber bottle provides UV ray protection for light sensitive liquids. These brands are packed in glass bottles, since packing these fragrance brands in plastic can cause the product to degrade the bottle.
Rustic, Elements & Just Scent fragrances are packed in clear plastic. Fragrance may degrade plastic and cause bottles to leak at times but traditionally are okay to be packed in PET (1). These fragrance brands have a slightly differnt chemical make-up and are not as potent as WSP or MYOB brands and therefore can usually withstand a plastic PET (1) bottle.
- [How does the USDA regulate the term organic when it comes to cosmetics?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-does-the-usda-regulate-the-term-organic-when-it-comes-to-cosmetics-809770.md): Please click this link for further information on what has the capabilities to be "Certified Organic" - [Good Manufacturing Practices Basic Overview](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/good-manufacturing-practices-basic-overview-809774.md):
There are Good Manufacturing Practice guidelines which are important in assuring that your cosmetic products are neither adulterated nor miss-branded. These are regulations for cosmetics; a system that consists of set procedures and documentation that ensures manufacturing products are continually produced and monitored according to quality standards.
These guidelines require that manufacturers, processors, and packagers of drugs, cosmetic, food, medical devices and even blood, ensure that their products are safe, clean, and effective.
GMP guidelines provide guidance on issues such as record keeping, personnel, sanitation, cleanliness, equipment verification, process validation, and complaint handling. Most GMP requirements are very general and open-ended, allowing each individual manufacturer to decide how to best to impose the necessary controls. This provides much flexibility, but also requires that the manufacturer interpret the requirements in such a way that it makes sense for each individual business.
GMP guidelines require a quality view to manufacturing, enabling companies to reduce or possibly even eliminate instances of mix ups, contamination, and errors. This protects the consumer from purchasing a product which is not effective or even dangerous. Failure to comply with GMP guidelines can result in very serious consequences (this can include fines, recalls, seizures, and possible jail time).
Good Manufacturing Practice Guidelines
The kind and severity of each reported injury and the body part involved.
The product associated with each injury, including the manufacturer and code number.
The medical treatment involved, if any, including the name of the attending physician.
The name(s) and location(s) of any poison control center, government agency, physician's group etc., to whom formula information and/or toxicity data are provided.
13. Other. Check whether the firm is:
Participating in the program of voluntary registration of:
Cosmetic manufacturing establishments (21 CFR 710).
Cosmetic product ingredient and cosmetic raw material composition statements (21 CFR 720).
Using a color additive which is not listed for use in cosmetics (21 CFR 73, 74, and 82) or which is not certified (21 CFR 80).
Using a prohibited cosmetic ingredient (21 CFR 700).
For information here are some links on the FDA Website:
Guidance for Industry Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices-Draft Guidance
Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) Guidelines/Inspection Checklist for Cosmetics
- [How to Label Your Product - Cosmetic Regulation](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-to-label-your-product-cosmetic-regulation-809771.md):You have worked hard on making your products, and now you may be thinking it is time to start a business. Before you make your first sale, make sure that your products are properly labeled! The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic (FD&C) Act and the Fair Packaging and Labeling (FP&L) Act are the authorities for these regulations and laws.
While laws and regulations can appear cumbersome and unnecessary, we have them for an important reason: to protect consumers. The FDCA protects consumers from unsafe or deceptively labeled or packaged products sold in the United States, while the FPLA ensures that packages and their labels provide consumers with accurate information about the quantity of contents and facilitate value comparisons.
The Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA) is the basis for labeling requirements for nearly all consumer commodities (things that are consumed or expended in the household). Its purpose is to “facilitate value comparisons and to prevent unfair or deceptive packaging and labeling.” From the FPLA, the Food and Drug Administration issued regulations covering the labeling of foods, drugs and cosmetics and the Federal Trade Commission issued regulations covering other consumer commodities.
A cosmetic label must contain the following:
Front Panel:
Back Panel:
The FDA goes on to make the following clarifications (21 CFR 701.12)
It is fun to go to retail stores and see how the big companies include these eight components on their labels. Sometimes it even helps give the mind some creative inspiration for the handmade industry!
Note: A cosmetic label is considered mis-branded if the label is false or misleading, does not contain the name/address of the manufacturer, packer, or distributor, and contains inaccurate net quantity of contents. The label is also considered mis-branded if all of the required information is not stated prominently, with conspicuousness, and in terms that it is read and understood by consumers under customary conditions of purchase and use or if the container or its fill is misleading. These rules apply to both full size and sample products.
In the United States traditional soap that does not contain detergents and is sold for the sole purpose of cleansing meets the Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act Soap Exemption rule. If you are labeling a bar of soap that meets this exemption you will need to comply with Fair Packaging and Labeling Act and Consumer Protection Safe Commission’s regulations. This includes having on the principle label: Accurate Product Name, Net Quantity in Metric. The secondary label must contain: Directions for Use and Caution/Warning Statements, Business Name and Business Location. For soap that is exempt from FDA regulations you are not required to list the ingredients. 
Since intended use is significant in the definition of a cosmetic and a drug, let’s look at additional examples:
With the revival of manufacturing in the U.S., many more companies are advertising their products as "Made in USA." According to new surveys, more Americans would rather buy products made in America, rather than products that were manufactured overseas. It is important, however, to not falsely advertise your products.
The FTC has recently investigated several US origin claims. A settlement agreement was reached with E.K. Ekcessories, Inc. regarding claims on EK’s website that it had been producing accessories in Logan, Utah, for 28 years that were a “true ‘Made in the USA’ product.” EK, however, had imported many of its products and components from outside the US. The settlement requires that EK contact all distributors that bought or received the products in question between January 2010 and May 2013, notify each of them of the FTC order, request that they cease use of certain deceptive advertising materials, and for certain products where deceptive claims are made on the packaging, provide stickers to cover the deceptive claim. The order will remain in effect for twenty years. [5]
To avoid a similar fate, manufacturers and marketers that wish to make “Made in USA” claims should be sure that the products described meet the “all or virtually all” standard or that the claims have been appropriately qualified.
Link for more information via the Federal Trade Commission
- [Household Cleanser Regulations](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/household-cleanser-regulations-809776.md):
furniture cleaners, laundry starch and detergents, fabric refresher (linen spray), hair styling products, shaving gels and air fresheners (room spray).We have a strict policy against the use of our photos and product descriptions by anyone, even with proper credit. However, you are encouraged to utilize the information we provide as a foundation for your own unique descriptions. Feel free to get creative and tailor the fragrance notes or ingredients lists to align with your company's branding.
- [Are your items cruelty free?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/are-your-items-cruelty-free-809778.md):This is on a case-by-case basis. We need to know which product you are specifically inquiring about. You can give us those details here.
One of our most popular products to date, our Foaming Bath Whip-Traditional is a great addition to any crafter's arsenal. During the hotter months of the year however, this product can sometimes cause quite the stir (and not the good kind)! In temperatures over 100 degrees F our Foaming Bath Whip-Traditional can deflate and liquify. This occurs especially during transit in carrier vehicles that are not temperature controlled. This article will address this phenomenon and ways to help correct it.
In the video below, you can see how our wonderful Foaming Bath Whip is made:
As seen in the video, the product is made in a liquified state at higher temperatures. It is then packaged and goes through a special cooling process to achieve that luxurious, dense fluffy look we all know and love. So when the foaming bath whip is exposed to the higher temperatures, it will go back to that liquified state. This can certainly be frustrating and alarming for our customers! Rest assured there is nothing wrong with the product and it is quite safe to use in this state. But we have a few helpful suggestions on how to get the product back to a great consistency.
Option 1-Whip it, whip it Good!
This is a great option if the product arrives in a slightly liquified to semi-liquified state. Allow the product to cool to room temperature. Take your desired amount and place in a cool or chilled mixing bowl (this will help to further cool the bath whip and help to counteract the heat generated by the mixer). Whip at medium to high speed for a minimum of 5 mins to incorporate air back into the product and the desired look is reached.
Option 2- Brr! Is it cold here, or is it just the Bath Whip?
So your Foaming Bath Whip has come pretty much liquifed. What to do? Never fear, the refrigerator is here!
Take the desired amount you wish to use in your recipe and place it in a mixing bowl. Cover the bowl with seran wrap and place in the refrigerator for a minimum of 2 hours. Once you remove it, immediately start to whip it on a medium to high speed for a minimum of 5 mins. Whip until desired consistency is reached.
Note: While the above suggestions are amazing for getting our Foaming Bath Whip-Traditional back to form, they will not keep the product stiff. Once the product comes back to room temperature, it will start to deflate (it will not liquify back, but will reach a slightly runny look. The next suggestions will address this desired stiff-look effect.
Option 3-Time to mix it up!
So you're looking to fluff the product into a stiff, peaked creation from the semi to liquified state the Bath Whip has arrived in. Great idea! This is a pretty easy fix if we do say so ourselves.
Just add soap! Melt and Pour Soap that is. Add this to the foaming bath whip starting at a 4:1 ratio, test, and increase the ratio if the feel and look of the bath whip is not what you want. Melt the soap in 30 second bursts in the mircowave until completely liquified. Add to the mixing bowl and whip for 3 to 4 minutes at medium speed. After that, add the foaming bath whip to the mixture and mix together for an additional 3-4 minutes minimum.
Example: If you're using 1 cup of the Foaming Bath Whip, you'll want to use 1/4 cup of the MP soap.
If you increase the ratio, try 3:1, 2:1, and finally 1:1. If using the last 1:1 ratio, the product will look very like fluffy summer clouds and be very stiff.
As long as this mixture is not exposed to excessive heat that will comprimise the melt and pour soap, it will keep this form.
Option 4-BUBBLES?! (Bubble Wash Thickener)
No soap, but you do happen to have our Bubble Wash Thickener on hand. Awesome! Try adding the Bubble Wash Thickener at about 2% to the bath whip amount and mix for 10-15 minutes on medium speed. This should keep it voluminous and fluffy.
As always, we recommend doing small test batches of any new method or product formulation you wish to try, to ensure it works the way that you want it to. Adjustments to the process may be needed, so its always a good idea to experiment!
It is the customers' responsibility to conform to all regulations required by the FDA when creating products for resale.
- [All About Thickeners](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/all-about-thickeners-809892.md):
Thickeners are useful in liquid cosmetics such as shower gel and bubble bath. Use them to off set the thinning which many occur from adding fragrance oils or essential oils as well.
BEESWAX
Beeswax is a cost-effective barrier cream and superior to most mineral-oil based creams. It functions as an emollient and humectant in lip products, creams, salves, and many cosmetic products. As a thickening agent, it will not clog pores and is anti-allergenic. WSP
Melting Point: 144 to 147 °F
Solubility: Insoluble in water. Slightly soluble in cold alcohol and completely soluble in fixed or volatile oils, chloroform, ether, benzene and carbon disulfide.
Usage Rate: 1-3% in CP Soap-Mix into the oils. Oil temp should be about 160ºF or 170ºF before mixing it in. Can accelerate trace
Max Temp: 185 °F to avoid discoloration
Popular Products that use this ingredient: Lip Balm. Fragrance Balm. Solid Lotion. Solid Deodorant. Wax Melts. Furniture Polish. CP Soap. Air Freshener Tarts. Cuticle Cream
Extra Selling Points:
| Beeswax - Ivory | Larger Pastille Size |
| Naturally refined - Not bleached | |
| Slightly smokey scent | |
| Beeswax-Ultra Refined & Bleached | Smokey smell eliminated- & bleached white color |
| Refined/bleaching process is proprietary | |
| Beeswax - Yellow Pastilles | May have Smoky Odor |
| Has natural yellow color |
- [What is a Surfactant?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-is-a-surfactant-809918.md):
Have you ever tried to wash dirty dishes equipped only with a sponge and water? This can be quite a feat. You will notice that it takes a lot more time and elbow grease to get the job done. Wondering why this is? The answer as you will notice right away is that the dish soap is missing.
Did you know that the most eminent surfactant in existence is soap?
Surfactants seem to always get the bad rap. Many people associate surfactants as bad ingredients to have in your recipes, but truth be told, this statement is not true! Yes, SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) is a surfactant, and it can be more irritating to your skin than other surfactants, but is it as bad as what you read in the media lately? It is an urban myth that Sodium Lauryl Sulfate causes cancer. In fact, many of the surfactants that will be listed in this class are derived from a natural source and they work to improve the integrity and performance of your cosmetic formulations.
Surfactants work with various liquids and substances; including oil and water. Much like that of the role of the emulsifiers, surfactants have a hydrophilic (water-loving) head, and a lipophilic (oil-loving) tail. In fact, emulsifiers are surfactants, and surfactants are vital to the industry of bath and body products too. They comprise the largest category of cosmetic chemicals, and seem to have an endless list of cleansing capabilities. So, needless to say, there is quite a variety to select from when seeking the perfect surfactant for your recipes.
The main qualifier in deciding which surfactant to use is all based upon the benefit that each surfactant provides. Just like cold process soaping or any homemade bath and body products, the components that you choose to use in your recipes have a direct beneficial affect on the skin when the recipe is transformed into a finished product. Therefore, when selecting which surfactant to use; it is just as equally important as to what you are looking to achieve in your finished product. Each surfactant has key functions in which it will excel and equivocally each will also have other functions where it will be lacking.
The term surfactant is actually a combination of its meaning: surface acting agent. Let s look at it again: surfactant = SURFace ACTing AgeNT. But the term surfactant is not always the one that everyone sticks with. It seems that surfactants have several names that all become applicable depending of the role of the surfactant in a specific recipe. For example, in recipes where foam is the finished product, the surfactant used maybe referred to as foaming agents. Surfactants used in body recipes, can even be termed as detergents or soaps. Or, in the example of shaving creams, surfactants are considered lubricants because they protect the skin from irritation and the razor s sharp edge while still allowing the removal of all of the unwanted hairs.
Everything that a surfactant does occurs at the surface levels of the liquids. The biggest role that a surfactant has is the capability to lower the surface tension of a liquid. The reaction which then occurs is the conversing of the liquid (with the lower surface tension) and the additional substance. To break this down in simpler terms; a surfactant has the power to change the properties of a substance. This process is known as adsorption. The term adsorption means: the gathering of gas or liquid in a condensed layer on the surface. This condensed layer creates a film which is why the surface tension is lowered. There are four different categories of classification for surfactants based on their interfaces and charges. They are: Anionic, Nonionic, Cationic, and Amphoteric.
Education is always a powerful thing, and it is not necessary to completely know the ins and outs of everything surfactants. But, you will want to have a general idea of each group of surfactants and how they play a role in your finished product. This is especially true if you are looking to accomplish a made from scratch recipe.
It is also beneficial to know a few other things about surfactants. This would include information like why the surfactants are grouped or classified together or how/if surfactants work with additional groups of surfactants in a collaborate manner. Spoiler alert: Not all surfactants play nice with one another!
Anionic surfactants are considered to be the go to surfactant for many formulations. This group of surfactants is also the most commonly used among foaming product productions, like shampoos or body washes. The reasoning for this is because the anionic surfactant s primary functions are creating high foam, high cleansing, and high washing capabilities in a finished product.
Anionic surfactants have a negatively charged water-loving head. Anionic surfactants work very well in recipes which have a reaction between a chemical (like lye) and fatty acids or alcohols (like animal lard or vegetable based oils). Hand processed soap, whether it is CP, CPOP, or HP, are all examples of anionic surfactants. Other examples of anionic surfactants are Sodium sulfates, Ammonium sulfates, sulfosuccinates, sarcosines, sarcosinates, isethionates, and taurates.
One of the drawbacks of using an anionic surfactant relates to skin sensitivity. Due the high foaming, cleansing, and washing capabilities, skin irritations can occur. It is for this reason that if you are looking to create a handmade recipe it is best to choose another category of surfactants, or balance the anionic surfactants with amphoteric surfactants.
Amphoteric surfactants are the go with the flow surfactants. They have the possibility to either have a positive or negative charge. Their charge is all based on the pH or alkalinity of your finished product. Hence the amphi prefix.
When an amphoteric surfactant is used in a recipe where the end result of a finished product has a lower pH, the amphoteric surfactant takes on a more conditioning and nourishing role. On the other hand, when an amphoteric surfactant is used in a recipe where there is a higher pH in the end product, it resembles more of an anionic surfactant with high foaming and cleansing capabilities. Neither option is necessarily bad; they are just on two different planes of the beneficial skin aspects.
Amphoteric surfactants are the most docile of the surfactants. They are also the second most used surfactants in the industry. This is because when used alone, they are able to provide a gentle aspect to the nature of your end product. Adversely, when an amphoteric surfactant is coupled with an anionic surfactant, the amphoteric surfactant mellows the harshness of the anionic surfactants. In fact, amphoteric surfactants can be used solo and in conjunction with any other of the surfactant groups. There adaptability is just one of the reasons why they are so widely used.
Some examples of well know amphoteric surfactants are Coco Bentaine, Lauryl Bentaine, and Hydroxysultaines.
Cationic surfactants are the opposite of anionic surfactants. They have a positively charged water-loving head. It is because of this positive charge that cationic surfactants can offer many skin loving, nourishing benefits to the skin and body. These surfactants are best used in recipes where foaming is not necessarily mandatory such as hair conditioners. Cationic surfactants alone do not allow for ample foaming capabilities.
Cationic surfactants work well with 2 of the 3 remaining surfactant groups. Both amphoteric and nonionic surfactants will be compatible with cationic surfactants with no problems. However, because of the opposing charge cationic (positive) and anionic (negative) surfactants will not combine.
Some common cationic surfactants used in bath and body recipes are your chlorides (Benzalkonium, Stearalkonium, and Centrimonium), Trimethyl Ammoniums, and Methyl Sulfates.
Nonionic surfactants have no foaming capabilities which is why this group of surfactants are rarely used as a recipe's main surfactant. Evident by the prefix non, these surfactants do not have a charge in their water-loving heads. The end result of using a nonionic surfactant will allow for a finished product that has a very gentle cleansing ability. But, just because it doesn't foam, it doesn't mean it does cleanse.
Psychologically speaking, there is a direct mental correlation between foaming and cleansing. We as a race have somehow inherently made this connection. Whether it is a physical view of suds equating to cleanliness, or simply urban myths that have taken on a life of their own, the reality is; it could not be further from the truth.
Nonionic surfactants, or at least some of them, are ethoxylated. What this means is that the nonionic surfactants have had some reaction to the addition of ethylene oxide. With this reaction comes an even more water-loving head, almost as if it has been supercharged. This then makes nonionic surfactants (like Polysorbate 20) perfect solubilizers.
But, don't just disregard this category of surfactants yet. Nonionic surfactants can also be used in formulations to reduce irritants, due to their gentle cleansing ability. They also have the capability to be used as an emollient, softening or soothing skin. Not to mention, these surfactants can be used to stabilize foam in recipes. Hold on to your seats though folks, because it gets a little better! Due to its lack of a charge, nonionic surfactants love every other category of surfactants; you can consider them the peacemakers!
Some common nonionic surfactants used in bath and body recipes are your Polysorbates, Emulsifying Wax NF, E-wax, Glyceryl Oleate, Glyceryl Stearate, ingredients with the prefix PEG, Ceteareths, Oleths, Sorbitans, Lauryl Glucoside, and Polyglycose.
In summary, surfactants are amazing little compounds found in many items we use every day like adhesives, bath gels, creams, lotions, frozen foods, chewing gum, inks, and fabric softeners; just to name a few! There are four main applications of surfactants particularly in just bath and body recipes. They include: cleansing, solubility, emulsifying, and conditioning.
Some other additional aspects of surfactants to bath and body recipes include: the potential to increase stability of a product; certain surfactants can be used as thickening agents; due to the composition of a surfactant, some maintain anti-microbial elements and therefore can be used as preservatives; there are even some that have the capability to reduce irritation allowing for a milder product on the skin.
Interested in adding some surfactants to your recipes?
Below is a list of some commonly added surfactants to bath and body recipes:
sodium lauryl sulfate (can be derived from coconuts) Produces High Foam; easy to thicken. Strong Anionic Surfactant; can cause irritation
ammonium laureth sulfate (derived from coconuts) Produces High Foam; easy to thicken. Strong Anionic Surfactant; can cause irritation
disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate (derived from coconuts) Foaming agent, Mild Anionic Surfactant; gentle on the skin
Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate (derived from coconuts) Mild, Amphoteric Surfactant
decyl Polyglucoside (vegetable derived, used in baby shampoos for its gentleness)
cetearyl alcohol
stearyl alcohol
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (derived from coconut oil) Amphoteric Surfactant
Decyl Glucoside (derived from sugar)
Glyceryl Cocoate (derived from vegetables)
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (derived from coconuts)
Almond Glycerides (derived from vegetables)
Sodium Lauryl Sulphoacetate (much milder surfactant than SLS)
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (derived from vegetables and is a natural substitution for SLS)
sodium methyl cocoyl taurate (derived from coconut)
Sucrose Cocoate (derived from sugar)
polysorbate 20 (vegetable derived)
polysorbate 80 (vegetable derived)
- [How do I use Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate SLSA?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/how-do-i-use-sodium-lauryl-sulfoacetate-slsa-809920.md):All About SLSA
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate is a surfactant that is derived 100% naturally. It comes from coconut oil and palm oil. It is also completely free of all sulfates. A surfactant is a surface acting agent, which basically means that it causes products to fizz and foam. There are a plethora of homemade cosmetic items that you can make with SLSA. Starting with bath bombs, the two most important ingredients to make them are baking soda and citric acid. The combination of these two is necessary in order to cause the fizzing reaction when the bath bomb hits the water. SLSA is going to contribute incredible foaming qualities to your bath bombs that will accompany the fizzy reaction. Another product that can be made using SLSA is bath bubble bars. This is the perfect surfactant to use to make these because of the foaming quality it contributes. Your bath water will be exploding with mounds of bubbles when these hit the bath water. You can also use SLSA to create many other cosmetic related products too, such as shampoo bars, liquid soap, and facial washes.
The Benefits of Using SLSA
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate carries a lot of benefits along with it. SLSA brings to the table many elements that are very beneficial to the skin. What might just be the greatest quality of this surfactant is that it can be used on every type of skin and hair. We feel this characteristic is important, and products with SLSA work really nicely for people with dry and sensitive skin. There are so many different skin conditions out there such as eczema, rosacea, acne, and psoriasis. We want to be able to cater to our customers and provide them with products that will work for all types of skin. This is just one of the reasons we decided to add SLSA to our website.
Another key benefit of using SLSA in your homemade bath product recipes is that it will provide a much thicker lather than other surfactants will. This quality contributes significantly to creating bubbles that are actually long lasting. SLSA readily dissolves in water because of its small particles, which is great for things like bath bombs. Other great things about it are the excellent flash foam that it has, the two year long shelf life, and the versatility of the product. Powder shampoos and bath salts are some of the other recipes SLSA can help create that we have not mentioned.
SLSA in Comparison to Other Surfactants
SLSA is a product that is extremely versatile in this industry. It can be the perfect alternative to other surfactants such as Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS). SCI is a customer favorite. Each of these also contribute plenty of versatility in cosmetic recipes, projects, and products. Similarly to SLSA and coconut oil, SCI derives from coconut. Our Wicked Bath Bomb recipe was made using SCI. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is another type of surfactant that commonly gets used for soap making. It is an inexpensive item that makes for a great foaming agent in different personal care products. Many of the same recipes can be created with any of these. However, your recipes will have individual elements added to them based on the one you use.
These three surfactants are great for making all kinds of homemade bath products. Some of the different ones include bath truffles, bubble scoops, and body scrubs. Although SLSA can be used as an alternative to both SCI and SLS, we wanted to share some of their differences. SCI has qualities in it that benefit the skin. Products that are made with SCI tend to have more moisturizing elements in them than those made with SLS or SLSA. One example of this is in bubble bars. Compared to other surfactants, a bubble bar made with SCI is going to make your skin feel more softened and silky smooth after taking a bath. However, a bubble bar made with SLSA is going to create a lot more lather and extra bubbles for your bath compared to the others. The surfactant you choose to use depends on what you are looking for. If you want more of a bubbly bath, SLSA will provide that.
Recipes You Can Make with SLSA: Sangria Shimmer Bomb Recipe
These Sangria Shimmer Bombs. Who does not love to take a nice, relaxing bath after having a long day? These shimmer bombs are the perfect product to help you to a night of relaxation. To use the sangria bombs, run a couple under warm bath water. They will start foaming immediately. We love these bath bombs because of the bubbles they provide. Unlike bath products made with SCI, these have much more lather to them! This is because SLSA is a surfactant that has more of a foaming quality to it. Therefore, the products made with it are also more foamy and bubbly. These will give you one of the most relaxing baths you have ever had!
- [All About Color Additives for Cosmetics](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/all-about-color-additives-for-cosmetics-809890.md):The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act specifically states that Color Additives are
subject to a strict system of approval under U.S. Law. All color additives used in cosmetics (or any other FDA-regulated product) must be approved by FDA. This means that that the FDA assures that the product is safe for use on humans and contains no heavy metals or other toxic substances.
Crafters Choice colors are safe, free of heavy metals or other toxic substances and are approved for cosmetic use.
| Below are a few definitions you will need to know such as: What is a "cosmetic?" and What is a "color additive?" The Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, defines each as: |
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Tip: You may be overwhelmed when looking at all of the color options on the WSP site since there are so many to choose from. Colors will fall within two main categorires Dyes & Pigments
Q: What is the difference between a Dye and Pigments?
A: What determines a dye from a pigment is its solubility - Dyes are typically water soluble, while Pigments are dispersible, typically in oil.
Q: What is the difference between soluble and dispersible?
A: Soluble film completely dissolves, whereas dispersible film just breaks down into minute particles.
| Dyes | Pigments | Pigments Cont' |
| Stained Glass Colors - Dye | Matte Colors (Iron Oxides) | EZ-Color-Dye-(Really A Lake) |
| EZ-Color-Pigments | Mica's | |
| Ultramarines | EZ-Color-Mica | |
| Bath Bomb Colors (AKA Lakes) | Nutones | |
| Neons- (Lake) | Titanium Dioxide |
Let’s take a look at each color option below to distinguish the differences and discuss cosmetic performance.
DYE
A colored material that is typicall soluble in water
Warning: Stained Glass Colors are highly concentrated, so a little goes al long way and if you use too much you will risk the possibility of staining. Be sure to protect surfaces and clothing when using this product.
Before adding the stained glass powders to liquid ingredients, its best to mix the 1/4 tsp of stained glass powder color with 1oz of water and add a few drops at a time to your mixture until you get the desired result. True color of powder will be revealed once it dissolves in water so customers are encouraged to test (especially with bath bombs composed of dry ingredients, the color does not bloom until it dissolves in water).
PIGMENTS
A colored material that is completely or nearly insoluble in water
Note: Matte Colored Pigments are made of Iron oxides and are listed as Matte Colors on the WSP website. The colors are flat and more subdued without any spakle. They tend to be popular (especially in CP soap) because they do not morph & are non-bleeding colors.
EZ Color Pigments are a great way to add color to your Versagel, lip gloss, lip balm, and any other oil based formulas. They are specially formulated to be extremely concentrated, meaning you only need a few drops.
Warning: Ultramarines can speckle in MP soap & may be best used in CP or HP soapmaking. They are Matte finishes that come in Pink, Lavender & Blue (only).
BEWARE- They are unstable in acidic environments and therefore must be used in an alkaline media above Ph of 7.2, (which soap is perfect for soap), or it will release hydrogen sulfide, a noxious odor and poisonous chemical. (MIXED IN BATH BOMBS PRODUCE A SMELL SIMILAR TO ROTTEN EGGS)
Note: Bath Bomb Colors are extremely popular choice in bath bombs and fizzes because they completely dissolve without leaving a bathtub ring (POLY 80 RECOMMENDED). There are (4) primary colors available, so consumers willneed to mix colors to craft a new shade. Customers should test final product before use or sale.
Warning: If you are selling a cosmetic product that is solely colored with one of our Bath Bomb Color (AKA Lake), the lake must be batch certified by the FDA. WSP only carries the batch certified Bath Bomb Color in bulk size only. The smaller shelf sizes are NOT batch certified.
Note: can be used in MP, HP, CP, Lotions, Bath Fizzies, Etc… Mixing well with a mini whisk or frother will decrease the amount of color speckles in your final product
Note: Best used in lip products. They are specially formulated to be extremely concentrated, meaning you only need a few drops. SHAKE WELL FOR 1-2 MINUTES UPSIDE DOWN BEFORE USE. Contents may have settled. Ltd. to 4 colors.
These are pigments considered in a world of their own
Note: Mica come in a large variety of colors and produce a beautiful color and shine. They are our most popular colors to date.
EZ Color Mica's are a great way to add color to your Versagel, lip gloss, lip balm, and any other oil based formulas. They are specially formulated to be extremely concentrated, meaning you only need a few drops.
Warning: Titanium Dioxide can cause glycerin rivers if mixed with water in your CP soap batch. Best to add to glyerin or oil/butter mixture and mix well with mini mixer prior to adding color into your CP soap batch.
Poly80 is recommended if you are adding to a forumlation that will sit in bathwater (i.e. bath bombs, bath fizzies, soaks, etc...). Powdered version will clump so its best to thoroughly mix in glycerin before coloring your product.
Adding Natural Colors or Herbal Powders
Adding Glitter to Cosmetics
Caution - Do not use standard craft glitter in your cosmetics as the particle size is generally too large. While there is no government regulation for the particle size that can be used in cosmetics, the cosmetic industry standard is 0.004" and 0.008". These smaller sizes will lessen your liability in the event a cosmetic with glitter gets into an eye and there is an eye injury.
Adding Food Coloring to Cosmetics
Important Things to Note:
Color Usage Rates: Typically we recommend starting with a ratio of 1tsp per pound of product. Using too much color may cause staining. Test your final product to ensure optimal performance and no staining. Protect work areas and clothing when mixing.
Batch Certification: Our Colors (with the exception of the Bath Bomb Lakes) are exempt from certification. These color additives are obtained primarily from mineral, plant, or animal sources. They are not subject to batch certification requirements. Bath Bomb Lakes are subject to batch certification requirements. For more information, see warning label above in Bath Bomb Lake section.
Soap Color Blocks - WSP carries a variety of Soap Colors blocks that are specifically used to color Melt & Pour Soap. The soap color blocks can be found in Stained Glass colors, as well as Mica's, Matte, Ultramarine, Titanium Dioxide, and Neons. The color is dispersed into MP soap and are bright, glossy and potent. One color block cube colors approximately five pounds of MP soap. The soap color bars will make coloring MP Soap very easy when melted and added to your melted soap base. For the truest color results, we recommend using these in a clear MP soap base. When used in an opaque soap base the end result will be a soft color.
- [All about Emulsifiers](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/all-about-emulsifiers-809891.md):
Emulsifiers are ingredients that hold other ingredients together, preventing separation.
Below are a list of Emulsifiers that is used to keep the oil and water from separating in your creams, lotions, scrubs, hair and beard formulations. It is supplied in white waxy pellets or flakes and has a low odor. The E-wax is made from a vegetable source fatty alcohol.
| Products | Typical pH (Measures acidity) |
| Moisturizers - Creams & Lotions | 5 - 7 |
| Emuslified Scrubs | less than 6 |
| Hair Conditioners | 3.5 - 5.5 |
EmulsifyingWax -Traditional
Used to binds oils and water together in recipes for lotions, creams, scrubs and hair conditioner. Provides a powdery, soft, silky feel to lotion formulas. It can be used to make thick or thin emulsions, depending upon the concentration used. Lotions tend to have a heavy, cream-like appearance with this emulsifying wax.
Ingredients
Cetearyl Alcohol -A mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols that come from vegetable sources- (i.e. Coconut Oil). Used as a emollient and thickening agent, foam booster, stable emulsifier.
Polysorbate 60-a sorbitol-based emulsifier and thickening agent
Emulsifying Wax -Soft & Silky
Used to binds oils and water together in recipes for lotions, creams, scrubs and hair conditioner. Forms highly stable emulsions with excellent appearance and feel and imparts a very light, whipped appearance to your handmade lotion/cream recipes. This also works great in spray leave in conditioners!
Ingredients
Cetearyl Alcohol -A mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols that come from vegetable sources- (i.e. Coconut Oil). Used as a emollient and thickening agent, foam booster, stable emulsifier.
Ceteareth-20 A fatty alcohol that functions as an emollient and emulsifier. When used in conjunction with other alcohols and fatty acidsit can work as a thickener. Acts to stabilize water/oil emulsions.
Emulsifying Wax – Conditioning
Our Conditioning Emulsifying Wax adds a silky feel to lotion and hair care products. Lotions that use this wax tend to have a very light, whipped appearance. This product can also be used in leave in hair conditionersfor all hair types because it is known to tame and detangle. Odor fades in finished product and can be covered by fragrance.
Ingredients
Behentrimonium Methosulfate(AKA BTMS) - Ammonium Salt and emulsifier used in hair conditioners as a cleansing and antistatic agent. Use when a light, powdery soft, non-greasy feel and finish is desired. It helps to tame and detangle and can be described as having a fishy odor
Cetyl Alcohol-a fatty alcohol derived from natural oilsthat serves as an emulsifier and is used as an emollient (softening agent) and thickening agent. Can be used as an opacifierin shampoos and conditioners which makes it great for a leave in conditioner. Helps to reduce tangles by 50% because it adds more slip to help comb through the hair easier.
Butylene Glycol-fatty alcohol that is used as a conditioning agent. It is a humectant and helps to draw moisture from the air to onto the skin and hair. It is considered to be moisturizing or moisture locking so it is great for a leave-in conditioner.
Emulsifying Wax -Conditioning Plus
Our Conditioning Plus Emulsifying Wax is ideal for creating Hair Conditioners and Lotions with a creamy and thick consistency. When used in hair products, the extra conditioning properties will leave the hair detangled and soft. This wax is refined, deodorized and comes in the form of white pastilles. Odor fades in finished product and can be covered by fragrance.
Ingredients
Cetearyl Alcohol, A mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols that comes from vegetable source (i.e. Coconut Oil). Used as a emollient and thickening agent, foam booster, stable emulsifier. Helps to reduce tangles by 50%
Behentrimonium Methosulfate(AKA BTMS)- Ammonium Salt used in hair conditioners as a cleansing and antistatic agent. when a light, powdery soft, non-greasy feel and finish is desired.
Emulsifying Wax - Hair & Beard -
Emulsifying Wax - Hair & Beard is the perfect emulsifier for leave-in hair and beard products because of the soft, non-greasy after feel it leaves. This wax is also known to be hydrating and lighter than other emulsifiers, making it perfect for in leave-in conditioners, pomades, beard balms and more! Odor fades in finished product and can be covered by fragrance.
Ingredients
Cetearyl Alcohol, A mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols that comes from vegetable source (i.e. Coconut Oil). Used as a emollient and thickening agent, foam booster, stable emulsifier. Helps to reduce tangles by 50%
Behentrimonium Methosulfate(AKA BTMS)-Ammonium Salt used in hair conditioners as a cleansing and antistatic agent. when a light, powdery soft, non-greasy feel and finish is desired.
CO-EMULSIFIERS
Cetyl Alcohol Flakes- Works as an emollient,emulsifier, thickener and carrying agent and gives products good spreadability and texture to creams and lotions.
Polysorbate 80
Polysorbate 80 is a solubilizer, emulsifier, wetting agent, viscosity modifier, dispersing agent, and stabilizer. Use in bath fizzies, milk bath, bath melts, furniture polish and more.This water-soluble emulsifier is a must-have product for DIY bath bombs and bath oil.
WHATS IN A SMELL? The reason for the strong fishy odor in some emulsifying waxes & honeyquat.
Ever wonder why Emulsifying Wax Conditioning Plus (on WSP) -AKA- BTMS-25 , Emulsifying Wax Conditioning (on WSP) - AKA - BTMS-50 (on MYOB), and Honeyquat (2-hydroxy-N,N,N-trimethyl) can smell a bit…. fishy? Nothing is wrong with the product – you are smelling the ammonium salt in the cationic quaternary compound. Have you ever smelled these products and smelled nothing? It’s probably not COVID (this time); some people just can’t smell the compound (musk is the same way).
Can you substitute BTMS? It’s tough. Non-catatonic emulsifying waxes like Olivem 1000 from MYOB will not provide any conditioning benefits to your product like BTMS will. The cationic Polyquaternium 7 + cetyl or cetearyl alcohol might work for select recipes, but you’ll really have to experiment with your recipe and ratios. If you recommend this to a customer, let them know that there are no guarantees as to how well a substitution will work in these cases, because they might not work at all.
So what can you do about it? Try to use it as less than 10-15% of your recipe; you might be lucky enough to avoid the scent coming through. Honequat is typically used at such a small percentage
Good news: most recipes will use this as at 1-15% maximum, so it’s safe to advise customers that the smell typically disappears when the additive is used as advised.
- [Foaming Agents](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/foaming-agents-809893.md):
A foaming agent is a material/detergent that facilitates the formation of foam/lather such as a surfactant. Surfactants are a primary component of cleaning detergents and are meant to help clean and/or emulsify. The word surfactant means surface active agent. As the name implies, surfactants stir up activity on the surface to either help bind molecules and emulsify and/or to help trap dirt and remove it from the surface. To understand more about surfactants please read the seperate article in this knowledge base titled "All about Surfactants."
The following chart provides common primary and secondary foaming agents.
Bubble Up (AKA) Cocamidopropyl Betaine - is a mild surfactant that comes from coconut oil, and is commonly used as a secondary foaming agent in liquid washes. Contains slight viscosity building properties and can be used to foam boost body washes and bubble bath.
Lathanol LAL Coarse –aka SLSa (Crafters Choice)
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate puts foam in bath formulations. Works well in soft and hard water. Although the powder is considered course it is an airborne product. You will need a mask and a contained space when making your finished product. Also called SLSa. Sold as course on WSP, EBB & Rustic but MYOB carries 3 forms- Standard, Course & Flake form.
Sodium Coco Sulfate Noodles –SCS
Sodium Coco Sulfate is a non-irritating, gentle surfactant that is derived from natural coconut oil giving it natural conditioning properties. Its an anionic surfactant that is excellet for lifting and suspending dirt or soil and produces a heavy foam. Great for shampoo bars, body wash, liquid shampoo, shaving cream and more! Sodium coco sulfate will make your cleansers have a typically denser and creamier foam and may be translucent rather than clear.
Sodium Cocyl Isethionate Noodles - SCI
Sodium Cocoyl isethionate is a gentle anionic surfactant based fatty acid derived from coconut oil. It acts as a foaming and cleansing agent. Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate cleans the skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away. Commonly used in made from scratch shampoos, shower gels and more! Sulfate-free and biodegradable.
Below is a chart featuring 19 additional foaming surfactants found solely on MYOB. For more information on each surfactant below, please click the name to be directed back to the MYOB website.
If customers are looking to sub a surfactant that is out of stock, you will want to replace any surfactant with one that is the same format (liquid or powder) and has the same charge (anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric, or cationic). Also look for A similar pH and similar active surfactant matter (ASM—the concentration of the surfactant). Lastly look at website description for a comparion for lather and feel to be sure that you have a match. The formulator should ensure that they are testing for to ensure they are getting the desired results.
| Surfactant Name | Form | Charge | pH | Active Matter | Notes |
| AOS 40- Sodium C-14 C-16 Alpha Olefin Sulfonate | Thin Liquid | Anionic | 7 - 8.5 (10% solution) | 40% | Bioterge AOS 90 Surfactant |
| Bioterge AOS 90 Surfactant | Powder | Anionic | 9 (5% in water) | 88% | AOS 40- Sodium C-14 C-16 Alpha Olefin Sulfonate |
| Decyl Glucoside | Liquid | Non-Ionic | 11 - 12 | 50-54% | Considered to be one of the best of the New generation of surfactants, recommended as a primary or co-surfactant |
| Decyl Glucoside Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate Blend | Liquid | Non-Ionic | 5 - 9 (10% in water) | 50 - 59% | Perfect for making naturally derived, mild, sulfate free skin and hair care products. Highly concentrated and easily diluted. Not compatible with cationic surfactants |
| Coco Glucoside Surfactant | Liquid | Non-Ionic | 11.5 - 12.5 | 55% | Excellent choice if you are looking for something with no sulfates, parabens, diethanolamides. |
| Caprylyl Capryl Glucoside | Liquid | Non-Ionic | 5.5 - 6 | 51% | |
| Lauryl Glucoside Plantaren 1200 | Liquid | Non-Ionic | 11.5 - 12.5 | 48% - 52% | |
| Liquid | Anionic | 7.5 - 8.5 (10% in water) | 26% | ||
| Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate (SLES) | Liquid | Anionic | 6 - 8 (10% in water) | 26% - 29% | |
| Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (DLS) | Liquid | Anionic | 6 (10% in water) | 32% | |
| Ultra Mild Concentrate | Liquid | Blend | 6 - 7 (2% solution) | Blend | Tear Free,Ready to use, Dilute w/ Water, |
| Plantapon LCG Sorb (AKA) LCG Sorb Blend | Liquid | Anionic | 5.5 - 6.5 (10% | 28% - 34% | Ready to use, Green blend, Hair & Body wash, All natural & suitable for use in mild rinse-off applications. |
| Plantapon 611L Up | Liquid | Anionic | 7 | 42% | Ready to use, Used for shampoo & skin cleansers, can be diluted to 10-20% w/ water, high viscosity |
| Lauramidopropyl Betaine | Liquid | Amphoteric | 7 - 9 (10% solution) | 28.5% - 31.5% | Foam Booster, viscosity builder, adds humectancy to formulations, stable in hard water |
| Lauramine Oxide | Liquid | Nonionic/-Amphoteric | 6 - 8.5(10% solution) | 29% - 31% | Foam and solubilizing properties, Works well in neutrral, acid, and alkaline formulation,environmentaly friendly, replaces products that are petroleum based |
| Disodium Cocoamphodiacdtate | Semi- Thick Liquid | Amphoteric | 9 (10% in water) | 38% | Makes a moderate lather, cleans without defatting the skin, giving a rich, conditioning effect. Soluble in Water |
| Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate (SLI) | Solid Chunks | Anionic | 4.7 - 6 (10% solution) | 78% - 83% | High foaming product that when used will provide dense, creamy lather to formulations, naturally derived from fatty acids derived from coconut, limited solubility in soft and hard water, Dispersible in water |
| Drum Only | Liquid | Non-Ionic | 7.4 | 100% | Excellent detergent, Dispersant & emulsifier for oil-in water systems |
| Powder | Anionic | 2-8 | 15% | Works as a thickener and stabilizer in emulsions as well as a foam booster. Pre-neutralized powder & can be used cold and hot process. |
- [All about Surfactants](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/all-about-surfactants-809894.md):
An easy guide to understanding how surfactants work
Article written by International Products Jan 12, 2022
WHAT IS A SURFACTANT?
Surfactants are a primary component of cleaning detergents and are meant to help clean. The word surfactant means surface active agent. As the name implies, surfactants stir up activity on the surface you are cleaning to help trap dirt and remove it from the surface
Surfactants have a hydrophobic (water-hating) tail and a hydrophilic (water-loving) head. The hydrophobic tail of each surfactant surrounds soils. The hydrophilic head is surrounded by water.
HOW DO SURFACTANTS WORK?
When there are a sufficient amount of surfactant molecules present in a solution they combine together to form structures called micelles. As the micelle forms, the surfactant heads position themselves so they are exposed to water, while the tails are grouped together in the center of the structure protected from water.
The micelles work as a unit to remove soils. The hydrophobic tails are attracted to soils and surround them, while the hydrophilic heads pull the surrounded soils off the surface and into the cleaning solution. Then the micelles reform with the tails suspending the soil in the center of the structure.
TYPES OF SURFACTANTS
The hydrophilic head of each surfactant is electrically charged. The charge can be negative, positive, or neutral. Depending on the charge of the hydrophilic head, the surfactant is classified as anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric.
Anionic surfactants have a negative charge on their hydrophilic end. The negative charge helps the surfactant molecules lift and suspend soils in micelles. Because they are able to attack a broad range of soils, anionic surfactants are used frequently in soaps and detergents. Anionic surfactants create a lot of foam when mixed. While anionic surfactants are excellent for lifting and suspending particulate soils, they are not as good at emulsifying oily soils.
Sulfates, sulfonates, and gluconates are examples of anionic surfactants.
Nonionic surfactants are neutral, they do not have any charge on their hydrophilic end. Nonionic surfactants are very good at emulsifying oils and are better than anionic surfactants at removing organic soils. The two are frequently used together to create dual-action, multi-purpose cleaners that can not only lift and suspend particulate soils, but also emulsify oily soils.
Certain nonionic surfactants can be non-foaming or low-foaming. This makes them a good choice as an ingredient in low-foaming detergents.
Nonionic surfactants have a unique property called a cloud point. The cloud point is the temperature at which the nonionic surfactant begins to separate from the cleaning solution, called phase separation. When this occurs, the cleaning solution becomes cloudy. This is considered the temperature for optimal detergency. For low foaming cleaners, optimal detergency is at the cloud point; for foaming cleaners optimal detergency is either just below the cloud point or at the start of the cloud point. The agitation of low foaming cleaners is sufficient to prevent phase separation.
The temperature of the cloud point depends upon the ratio of the hydrophobic and hydrophilic portions of the nonionic surfactant. Some cloud points are at room temperature while others are very high. Some nonionic surfactants don’t have a cloud point because they have a very high ratio of hydrophilic to hydrophobic moieties.
Examples of some common nonionic surfactants include cocamide, ethoxylates, and alkoxylates.
Cationic surfactants have a positive charge on their hydrophilic end. The positive charge makes them useful in anti-static products, like fabric softeners. Cationic surfactants can also serve as antimicrobial agents, so they are often used in disinfectants.
Cationic surfactants cannot be used with anionic surfactants. If positively charged cationic surfactants are mixed with negatively charged anionic surfactants, they will fall out of solution and no longer be effective. Cationic and nonionic surfactants, however, are compatible.
Examples of some common cationic surfactants include alkyl ammonium chlorides such as BTMS.
Amphoteric surfactants have a dual charge on their hydrophilic end, both positive and negative. The dual charges cancel each other out creating a net charge of zero, referred to as zwitterionic. The pH of any given solution will determine how the amphoteric surfactants react. In acidic solutions, the amphoteric surfactants become positively charged and behave similarly to cationic surfactants. In alkaline solutions, they develop a negative charge, similar to anionic surfactants.
Amphoteric surfactants are often used in personal care products such as shampoos and cosmetics. Examples of some frequently used amphoteric surfactants are betaines and amino oxides.
HOW ARE SURFACTANTS USED IN CLEANERS?
Surfactants are a key ingredient in cleaning products. One thing that differentiates cleaning products is how they are made. Cleaners made from a single chemical, targeting a specific type of soil, are referred to as commodity cleaners. Cleaners that are blends of various chemical ingredients designed to work together to remove various types of soils are referred to as formulated cleaners.
Formulated cleaners usually contain four basic elements: surfactants, hydrotropes, builders and carriers. Hydrotropes are chemicals that keep the otherwise incompatible surfactants and builders stable in a solution. The carrier is either water or a solvent. These elements work together to create mechanical actions to remove soils. The end result is a product that can attack dirt on surfaces with a variety of cleaning mechanisms including emulsifying, lifting, dispersing, sequestering, suspending and decomposing soils of various types. The type of surfactants used in a cleaning product largely determines which soils they will be best at removing.
Chelators
Chelators, substances that bind metal ions together and remove them from a solution, play an important role in the effectiveness of a cleaning detergent.
Metal ions such are as calcium, magnesium, iron and manganese are present in water. Surfactants are attracted to the metal ions in water, distracting them from acting on the soils we are trying to clean.
Chelators attract the metal ions in water and surround them. Once the metal ions are trapped by the chelators their electronic charge changes from positive to negative. The surfactants are no longer attracted to the metal ions and are free to focus on the surface soils. The chelators act as a barrier, cutting off the metal ions from the surfactants, allowing the surfactants to concentrate on fouled surfaces.
Builders
Builders are added to cleaning products to boost the effectiveness of surfactants. Builders act as buffering, softening and emulsifying agents.
Like chelators, builders soften water by neutralizing the effects of any metal ions that are present. This is done either through sequestration, holding metal ions in solution, or precipitation, causing the metal ions to fall out of the solution as insoluble materials.
Builders also serve as buffering agents, helping to maintain the stability of the pH level of the solution. This is important because the level of alkalinity of a solution will affect its cleaning strength. Builders with a higher pH target organic soils, while those with a lower pH work best for cleaning inorganic soils such as metal, oxide and scale.
Lastly, builders function as emulsifiers. They loosen dirt on the surface, breaking it down into smaller fragments. The builders then keep the loosened dirt suspended in the solution so it cannot redeposit on the surface.
Examples of commonly used builders are sodium hydroxide, sodium citrate, sodium borate,
potassium hydroxide, silicates, phosphates, citric acid, nitric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, and hydrochloric acid.
Carriers
Carriers are used to help dissolve soils. Water is the most common carrier. Once surfactants reduce the surface tension, water can penetrate the soils breaking them up into smaller pieces and keeping them suspended in the solution, away from the clean surface.
Some cleaning detergents contain chemical solvents. Like water, their function is to break down soils into smaller fragments so the surfactants can do their job. However, many of the chemical solvents that have traditionally been used in detergents can be hazardous. As a result, many people try to avoid products that contain chemical solvents and prefer to use those that rely on water for this important function.
WHAT'S IN YOUR CLEANER?
The most effective cleaners have surfactants, chelators, builders and carriers that work together to remove dirt. Look for a formulation that produces a variety of cleaning actions to lift, disperse, emulsify, sequester, suspend and decompose soils.
- [Uh-Oh…Something went wrong! Bath Bomb Edition](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/uh-oh-something-went-wrong-bath-bomb-edition-809901.md):Below are some common issues that customers may experience with bath
bombs:
1. Why is my bath bomb crumbly or cracking?
If you find that your bath bomb is crumbly, the mixture may be too dry. Adding more witch hazel, water, rubbing alcohol or oils will give the mixture a more moist texture, which will be less likely
to crumble and crack once removed from the mold. If your fizzy is cracking after it’s been in the mold, it’s possible that it was too wet and the mixture is expanding as it sits in the mold.
2. Why is my bath bomb soft?
If your bath bomb is soft, the mixture may have too much moisture. If you add too much witch hazel, water, rubbing alcohol or oils during the mixing process, add more dry ingredients to balance the texture. If you live in a humid, wet climate, the moisture in the air can prevent the bath bombs from becoming hard. Adding a small amount of clay like kaolin clay or cornstarch can help the bath bombs harden. They also make the bath bombs a bit sturdier.
3. Why does my bath bomb have lumps, warts or bumps on the surface?
A bumpy texture on your bath bomb is usually a result of clumps in the dry ingredients or not fully mixing the fragrance oil. Baking soda in particular tends to clump together. Before adding oil, color, fragrance or other additives, break up large clumps with your hands. To remove and break up smaller clumps, pour the dry ingredients through a fine mesh sifter. This extra step gives a smooth texture. Bath bomb warts can also occur when the fizzy contains too much moisture. Usually the culprit is fragrance or essential oil so mix extra well to ensure the wet is fully incorporated into the dry.
4. Why is my bath bomb not fizzing very much?
If your bath bomb is not fizzing in the tub as much as you’d like, you may try increasing the 
amount of citric acid in your recipe. You can start with a mix of 2 parts baking soda to 1.5 parts citric acid. In addition, if you use cornstarch in your recipe, you may try decreasing the amount or eliminating it all together. Fizzing can also decrease if a large amount of oil is used. If your bath bomb comes in contact with moisture from the air or from a damp environment, the fizzing reaction can decrease. To protect it from moisture, wrap it tightly with plastic wrap.
5. Why is my bath bomb expanding out of the mold?
If your bath bombs are expanding in the mold, this means the mixture is too wet and the fizzing reaction is happening prematurely. If you use a colorant or fragrance that contains water, this can cause the bath bomb mixture to fizz. If this happens, the bath bombs may still may fizz in the tub, although the amount of fizz may be decreased. In addition, bath bomb mixtures can fizz prematurely due to moisture in the air. For example, if you make bath fizzies on a moist and rainy day, this can cause the bath fizzies to expand in the mold.
What are Bath Bombs/Fizzies?
Bath bombs/Fizzies are hard-packed mixtures of mostly dry ingredients which effervesce when wet. They are designed to take relaxing bath time to a completely new level. They are a fun luxury that is best described as fireworks for you bath.
Fun Fact: It all started with Lush Cosmetics back in 1988. The company’s founders were busy tinkering around and developing new products; as they were fascinated with the fast-fizzing action of Alka Seltzer, and bore the bath bomb. A compact package of bicarbonate of soda, citric acid, colorings, butters and fragrance created a fan favorite and takes the washing experience to a new level.
What is a Bubble Bar?
A Bubble Bar is essentially the solid form of bubble bath product. They generally come in discs or brick-like shapes and are typically smaller than bath bombs.
Although similar in ingredients and texture, the objective of both products vary. The purpose of the bubble bar is to create mounds of bubbles on top of the water, whereas the bath bomb is designed to fizz under the water whilst also creating mesmerizing patterns of color.
What makes them fizz?
The mixture of baking soda and citric acid ignites a fizzy reaction when they come in contact
with water. Bath bombs will get less effective as time goes on. The fresher they are, the faster they'll fizz. To give them extra fizz, you can add Lathanol LAL Course to the batch (Better known to the Bath Bomb community as SLSa).
What are they made of?
Bath Bombs and Fizzies can contain endless additives such as natural moisturizers of different oils and butters, milk powders, arrow root powder, clay, cornstarch, essential oils, fragrances, salts, bath tea, toys, etc… Each bomb is hand pressed into a mold resulting in a compound mixture of ingredients. You drop the bomb in your warm bath and it will begin to fizz, and bubble with colors and scents of nature and voila!
These luxurious products only take a few moments to make, so it is important to have the ingredients on hand and measured before you get started.
Baking Soda-The backbone of this recipe is alkalizing baking soda. It is a necessary
complement to the acidic citric acid and part of the fizzing reaction.
Citric Acid-necessary for the fizzing reaction that makes bath bombs feel like bathing in champagne.
Corn Starch, Kaolin Clay or Arrowroot-Corn starch provides the silky feel that we all
love from bath bombs and can also lend to hardening. Kaolin Clay and Arrowroot
also work to help harden but doesn’t provide quite as silky of a finished product.
Oil-Pick a simple oil like olive oil, almond oil or coconut oil or get more fancy with Sea Buckthorn oil, Argan oil, Jojoba oil or Apricot oil.
Salt-Stick to basic salt or take it up a notch with epsom salt or to help provide a soothing bath.
Liquid-Basic water works, but most people use which hazel or rubbing alcohol as a binder for the dry ingredients.
Scents, Colors, & Optional Additives
This is where the options get endless. Use your favorite essential, fragrance or hydrosol, add dried herbs or flowers, yogurt powders, coloring toys, etc…
Color: Per FDA regulation, you must use an approved color since the color will come in
contact with sensitive areas. Keep in mind that bath bomb, bubble bars and bath salts are all intended for soaking and would all fall under the same category as lips and eyes in regards to color because it focuses on any surface of the body that has a mucous membrane. With that said there are some colors that are not safe for bath use (most blues and greens are not safe). The website details which colors are safe and which colors should be avoided in bath water under the approved uses category in each of the colors here.
Tips
~To help the color and oil mix into the bath water rather than pooling on top, we recommend adding the emulsifier Polysorbate 80. This will help color and oil to wipe out of the tub easier. We strongly recommend only using ¼ tsp per pound of base. Using too much color may cause staining. Test your final product to ensure optimal performance and no staining.
~Protect work areas and clothing when mixing.
~If using bath bomb colors, the colorant must be batch certified if the product is intended
to be sold. At this time we certify bulk bath bomb colors. Bath bomb colors that are
broken down into smaller sizes are not batch certified and cannot be used in cosmetic
products that will be sold.
What are Bath Salts?
Bath Salts are water-soluble, pulverized minerals that are added to water to be used for bathing. They are said to improve cleaning and enhance the enjoyment of bathing. Bath salts mimic the properties of natural mineral baths or hot springs. There are a variety of salts and salt additives that you can add to your bath, with a variety of traditional uses.
- [Shower Steamers](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/shower-steamers-809906.md):
What is a Shower Steamer?
A shower steamer is basically a bath bomb for your shower. They’re super easy to use! Just place one in your shower and as water hits it, it will bubble and fizz, releasing an amazing aroma of essential oils and/or fragrance oils into the air. The steamer portion of the name comes from the fact that the steam and humidity generated from a hot shower helps to enhance the aroma of the fragrance while you shower, providing a relaxing and beneficial atmosphere.
Basic Ingredients
Shower steamers have the same basic ingredients as bath bombs/fizzes do! You'll find basic ingredient information below:
Baking Soda-The backbone of this recipe is alkalizing baking soda. It is a necessary
complement to the acidic citric acid and part of the fizzing reaction.
Citric Acid-necessary for the fizzing reaction that makes bath bombs feel like bathing in champagne.
Corn Starch, Kaolin Clay or Arrowroot-Corn starch provides the silky feel that we all
love from bath bombs and can also lend to hardening. Kaolin Clay and Arrowroot
also work to help harden but doesn’t provide quite as silky of a finished product.
Oil-Pick a simple oil like olive oil, almond oil or coconut oil or get more fancy with Sea Buckthorn oil, Argan oil, Jojoba oil or Apricot oil.
Liquid-Basic water works, but most people use which hazel or rubbing alcohol as a binder for the dry ingredients.
One ingredient that is essential to shower steamers is of course...SCENT!
Whether its Essential Oils or Fragrance Oils, what makes Shower Steamers set themselves apart is the benefits that fragrance brings combined with the heat and humidity of the shower itself.
You can find a great selection across our sister sites of both Essential Oils and Fragrance Oils:
Wholesale Supplies Plus
Essential Oils , Fragrance Oils
MakeYourOwn.Buzz
Essential Oils , Fragrance Oils
Elements Bath & Body
Essential Oils , Fragrance Oils
Rustic Escentuals
Just Scent
Benefits of using Shower Steamers
TIPS:
A nice, hot shower will create steam, which helps to release the essential oils in the product.- [Bath Bomb/Fizzies Info](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/bath-bomb-fizzies-info-809907.md):
Bath Fizzy: hand-packed dry ingredients that fizz when wet.
Effervesce: to bubble, hiss, and foam as gas escapes.
Chemical Reaction: a process in which one or more substances, the reactants, are converted to one or more different substances, the products.
Citric Acid: a weak acid found naturally in citrus fruits.
Sodium Bicarbonate: a salt composed of sodium ions and bicarbonate ions. It reacts with acidic components (citric acid) in bath bombs, releasing carbon dioxide.
Polysorbate 80: a solubilizer that should be used with any bath bomb formula containing fixed oils and micas to reduce tub slipperiness, “ring around the tub” and staining.
Packaging Tip: Glass should never be used to package bath bombs as moisture in the
environment can set of the chemical reaction between ingredients causing the
package to explode.
What is a Lotion Bar?
A lotion bar is a solid lotion. It resembles a bar of soap, but acts like a lotion. The bar will stay solid when kept at room temperature or lower. It can be used anywhere on the body and when applied to skin, the body heat will slightly melt the bar. Lotion bars are typically made from all natural ingredients including butters and oils like Cocoa Butter, Shea Butter, Beeswax, Jojoba Oil, Avocado Butter, Sweet Almond Oil, Hempseed Oil and essential oils. There are also Exfoliating Lotion Bars that are the same lotion bar base with added salts (Sea Salt or Himalayan Salt for example) or sugars to exfoliate and moisturize skin naturally.
What is the appeal of this product?
1. Have dry thirsty skin?
Lotion bars are made of rich oils and butters to help nourish, soothe and moisturize your skin for hours. The best time to apply moisturizer is when your pores are open, either in the shower/bath, or just out of the shower/bath. This allows the lotion to deeply penetrate skin as well as seal and protect skin throughout the day.
2. Packaging is endless!
Because the lotion is solid mix of butters and oils, there are a endless number of packaging options. You can package them in twist up tubes that resemble a deodorant tube, in tin pots, or you can mold them in a Milky Way Tray Mold/Silicone Mold, making them as big or as small as you desire.
3. Purity/No Fillers
Lotion bars have a reputation for being a health-conscious choice because they are free from the potentially hazardous chemicals that may be found in commercial lotion products, such as phthalates, parabens, formaldehyde, petroleum, etc....
How to Use a Lotion Bar
Using a lotion bar is easy; just take the lotion bar into your hands and warm it with body heat, this will melt a small portion of the bar. One then can either rub the lotion onto the body part that needs moisturizing, or get enough in hands to put lotion bar down and use hands to cover skin. Lotion bars are especially effective in the shower, or right out of the shower when pores are open.
Lotion is created by combining oils and water with an emulsifier.
The great thing about creating a lotion recipe is that you can customize it to be the texture you love and you can control the ingredients added. It can be tricky to know how much water, oils and emulsifiers are needed to create a stable product. A great recommendation when first starting out is to use a tried-and-true recipe to get a feel for the process before starting with your own recipe. This is so that you can get a grasp of the basics before being the often long process of creating your own unique formulation.
The first thing to understand when making your own lotion is the basic ingredients. Usually the main ingredient of a lotion recipe is water. Water typically makes up about 70-80% of a lotion recipe. Using more water results in a thinner and lighter lotion. The texture of your lotion will depend on the proportions of each ingredient and the type of emulsifier and oils. In addition to water, below you will find a list of basic ingredients you will need to create your lotion.
Oils and Butters
Typically used around 10-25% of the recipe. Using a larger percentage of oils and butters in the recipe will usually result in a thicker heavier lotion. The type of oil and butter used also plays a huge role in the lotion texture. For example, adding a lightweight oil like sweet almond oil gives lotion very different properties than adding cocoa butter.
Emulsifiers
Oil and water don't mix well, so in order to get them to come together into a stable product, you will need some sort of emulsifier or emulsifying wax. Emulsifiers are typically used around 10% or less in a lotion recipe. An emulsifier is key to creating a successful lotion. The emulsifier binds the water and oil together. The last thing you want is for the oils and water in your lotion recipe to separate. Various emulsifiers have different binding strengths and properties, so it’s important to consider which emulsifier is best for your recipe. (i.e. E-Wax or BTMS 50)
Co-Emulsifiers
In addition to emulsifiers, there is another category of products referred to as co-emulsifiers. These ingredients are not meant to emulsify oils and water on their own, but will help to stabilize an existing emulsion to prevent your product from separating. Co-emulsifiers often help to thicken products as well. A recipe does not require a co-emulsifier, but they often create a more stable and creamy product (i.e. Cetearyl Alcohol Flakes, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol Flakes).
Preservative
Be sure to add a preservative to your lotion! This step is important because lotion contains water (and usually at a very high percentage). A preservative is an anti-microbial solution that helps to prevent mold & bacteria from growing in your products. Without it your product is likely to look like a science project gone wrong. While it’s possible to make lotion without a preservative, it won’t last very long. Within weeks, you will find mold & bacteria growing in your product. If you prefer to stay away from preservatives, we would recommend creating a body butter that does not contain water, and thus does not require a preservative. Or another option is that you can always use the natural preservative line but it is important to test your shelf life if using a natural preservative as it may not hold up as long as a standard preservative.
Additional Ingredients
Special additives can enhance your formulation and make it more unique. Additional Ingredients that can be in your lotion recipe include ingredients such as extracts, additional humectants (ex: glycerin), colors and fragrance. When adding extracts be sure to check as to whether they are oil or water soluble. This will help you to determine if you should add the product to the oil phase or the water phase of your lotion. The suggested usage rate is about 3-5% of the total weight of your lotion recipe. A Vanilla Color Stabilizer may be needed if your fragrance has vanilla.
To give a hint of color, Micas and Stained Glass colors work best. Micas will add color and a sparkle/shimmer finish. They are stable in a high pH, do not migrate and do not fade with UV exposure. Stained Glass colors will create a beautiful pastel color in lotion making.
~Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, Honeyquat, and Vitamin E Tocopherol T-50 are not preservatives. They are antioxidants which will help with oxidation of oils so that it your oils do not go rancid. They do not prevent gram positive and negative bacterial or mold from growing.
~When making lotion it is important to hold your heat! By this, you should insure that your water holds at a certain temperature for 20 minutes. This can be done by heating your water to 160 to 170 °F and hold that temperature for 20 minutes. This can be done with a double boiler, or keeping your pot in a warm oven. This step will kill some of the non-endoscope (dormant, tough and non-reproductive structure produced by some bacteria) forming bacteria. When doing this step some of your water may evaporate (10% or so) so you may need to make up for the lost water.
- [Filling Lotion Bottles](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/filling-lotion-bottles-809898.md):
temperature. Exceeding the maximum temperature can inactivate the preservative, allowing bacteria to grow. When your lotion is warmed to the proper consistency, begin filling the bottles. Many handmade artisans prefer to pour freehand or use a funnel in the neck of the bottle. In our experience when the lotion starts to thicken as it begins to cool, the funnel can become clogged. We prefer pouring freehand using our Mix & Pour Funnel Pitchers –the long nose on the pitcher helps to keep a controlled stream while filling.
This method is great when making lotion from scratch. After you make your batch of lotion, instead of attempting to pour it into smaller bottles, fill a gallon or half-gallon jug with the finished product. Attach a pump top to the jug and fill your individual bottles by pumping the finished lotion into them.Body Butters are oil-based lotions that do not have any water content, thus not requiring a preservative.
Body Butter is a great product to make for anyone that is looking for intense moisture. The beauty of body butter is that once you have a simple formula/recipe, it’s easy to customize to your liking. From a do-it-yourself standpoint, homemade body butter will last for months without the use of a preservative since water is not an ingredient. Body butters can be whipped or made into a thick paste. Stored away from moisture and light, this homemade body butter should last a minimum of 6 months or longer. It is recommended to use a spoon or spatula to scoop out product rather than your fingers- this will extend the life of the body butter.
HOW’S IT MADE?
Body Butter has a few main ingredients. It's super simple to make and the butter can be customized based on your individual preference. Best part is that it only takes a few ingredients to create a great body butter recipe!
Main Ingredient: BUTTERS
Homemade body butter starts with butter such as Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Mango Butter and even various Butter Blends etc... Let’s take a look at some of the butters that are most commonly used:
Shea Butter: Shea butter comes from the “nut” (or pit) of the fruit found on the Karite Tree. It has a somewhat strong scent when it’s purchased in an unrefined state. Since Shea Butter is naturally soft, it can be used as the main ingredient in body butter, or it may be combined with another butter–cocoa or mango butter–to create a custom body butter.
Cocoa Butter: Cocoa butter comes from the cocoa bean, so it smells like chocolate. Cocoa Butter is hard at room temperature, and it melts easily. It's recommended not to make a 100% cocoa butter body butter because you’ll end up with a final product that’s solid as a rock. Cocoa butter must be mixed with a softer butter, like Shea or Mango Butter, to yield a soft and spreadable final product.
Mango Butter: Mango Butter comes from the seed of mango fruit. It’s a soft butter, similar to Shea Butter in that it can have a bit of a gritty texture before it’s melted down. If you don’t want to use Shea Butter to make body butter, then Mango Butter is the best replacement. Mango Butter may be combined with Shea or Cocoa Butter to create a custom formulation.
Secondary Ingredient: OILS
Oil is the second main ingredient used to make body butter. Carrier oils such as Almond, Jojoba, Grapeseed, Coconut Oil, etc. can be used. Let’s take a look at some of the most commonly used oils:
Coconut Oil: This is a great oil for general moisturizing and serves as a protective layer, helping to retain the moisture in your skin. It also acts as a mild oil suitable for those with inflamed and irritated skin, and those with skin sensitivities.
Sweet Almond Oil: Sweet almond oil contains fatty acids as well as vitamins A
and E and penetrates easily into the skin.
Sunflower Oil: An oil wealthy in oleic acids with high amounts of vitamins A, D, and E, it also has beneficial amounts of lecithin and unsaturated fatty acids. It is deeply nourishing and conditioning for the skin, and is highly recommended for recipes designed to treat dry, weathered, aged, and damaged skin.
Jojoba Oil: Jojoba oil comes from the beans of a shrub like plant, and it is actually a liquid plant wax rather than an oil. It can be clear or bright golden in color, has a mild odor, and is favored in the carrier oil family because of its advanced molecular stability. It makes a wonderful skin moisturizer because of its absorption properties that are similar to our skin's own sebum.
Additional Ingredients
Antioxidants: Adding an antioxidant such as Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE), Grapefruit Extract or Vitamin E to prevent oils and butters from going rancid. This will help extend the life of your final product.
Wax: Beeswax or a Non-Animal Wax alternative can be added to body butter to help maintain its consistency. This is extremely helpful if using/selling product in warmer temperatures. This ingredient can be eliminated altogether if you prefer not to use a wax. You just need to insure that you have a good ratio or hard & soft butters and cut back on the amount of oil used.
Scent: A Fragrance Oil, Hydrosol or Essential Oil may be added for scent and additional skincare benefits.
Note: If adding a Hydrosol, a preservative will need to be used as hydrosols are water based.
Optional ingredients- Body butter is definitely more emollient and has a heavier texture than lotion does, but after a few minutes it will penetrate the skin and lose any greasy feel. Some folks find that body butter is a bit too greasy to apply all over the body. The good news is that there’s a simple solution for this issue… add a small amount of arrowroot, tapioca starch, or slick fix to the liquid oil before pouring the oil into the melted butter(s).
What is a Deodorant?
A pretty simple question with a simple answer, correct? Not necessarily! A deodorant is a cosmetic substance applied to the body to prevent or mask body odor due to bacterial breakdown of perspiration, more commonly known as sweat. It usually comes in a solid stick or bar form (but can be in spray form as well) that is applied to areas where sweat forms to prevent odor. Its more commonly confused with
its subcategory antiperspirant, which is classified as an over-the-counter-drug substance that stops sweating, usually by blocking sweat glands (this is done most often using the ingredient aluminum). Most modern 'deodorants' are actually a combination of deodorant and antiperspirant. For the purposes of this article, we're going to focus on what makes a natural deodorant.
What goes in a Deodorant?
Surprisingly, most natural deodorants have the same common ingredients. Its the combination, lack or use of these ingredients that makes each formulation unique.
Butters - provides moisturizing benefits as well as skin conditioning properties. Helps to solidify formulation.
Clays - highly absorbent minerals that can absorb moisture (which helps prevent the bacteria that causes body odor) as well as absorb the odor itself.
Waxes - Provides hardness in the formulation
Oils - provides skin conditioning benefits and moisturizing properties.
Baking Soda - a naturally alkaline ingredient which adjusts the pH of the area, making it less hospitable for the odor causing bacteria to thrive and grow.
Note: Baking Soda can sometimes be harsh when used in sensitive areas, such as your armpits. Test the ingredient to ensure you don't have a reaction to it.
Zinc Ricinoleate - a natural ingredient derived from ricinoleic acid, which is a major fatty acid found in castor seed oil. It is known as a natural odor absorber and works by trapping and then absorbing the odor molecules that occur from the bacterial decomposition of sweat.
Powders/Starches - a more skin-sensitive, safe way to absorb moisture which helps to prevent or reduce the environment in which the bacteria that causes odor to thrive.
Fragrance - a fragrance oil or essential oil that helps mask body odor.
If making a Deodorant Spray-Ingredients
Witch Hazel -natural antiseptic, helps to cleanse and soothe skin.
Distilled Water-Acts as a carrier for other ingredients.
Fragrance-Helps to mask body odor.
Hydrosols- Use in place of water in your favorite recipes to add a slight scent.
Preservative- protection from mold and bacterial growth in water based recipes.
All of these ingredients can be found on our various sister sites: Wholesale Supplies Plus, Elements Bath and Body, MakeYourOwn.Buzz, Rustic Escentuals, and Just Scent
Tip: when switching to a pure deodorant from either an antiperspirant or an combo antiperspirant/deodorant (or vice versa), its a good thing to keep in mind that it will take your body some time to adjust to the formulation you're applying. Each person's body will react differently, so there's not a set time limit on when/how your body will adjust.
How to use
Stick - Apply deodorant in an even coat to the underarm region. Start at the center of your armpit and work your way outward in all directions in a forward and back motion until your underarm is completely covered. Reapply as needed.
Spray - Spray 2–3 spritzes to the underarm region and let them air dry. Reapply as needed.
Other Deodorant recipes to try:
Baking Soda-Free Deodorant Recipe
Rose & Black Pepper Natural Deodorant
Asian Mandarin & Olive Leaf Natural Deodorant
Odor Neutralizing Deodorant Recipe
DIY Natural Deodorant Spray Recipe from Hello Glow
As always, test any new formulation or ingredient before use to ensure it works as intended and make sure you are in compliance with all FDA regulations.
- [Natural Laundry Detergent](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/natural-laundry-detergent-809909.md):
What is Laundry Detergent?
Detergent (Merriam-Webster) -any of numerous synthetic water-soluble or liquid organic preparations that are chemically different from soaps but are able to emulsify oils, hold dirt in suspension, and act as wetting agents.
Whether in liquid, powder, or pod form, laundry detergent has been around for a quite a while. While some type of cleaning agent has been used since ancient times, laundry detergent came
into being around the early 20th century, due to the shortage of available ingredients in Germany during WWI to create soap for washing. Synthetic detergents, while they may be produced from petroleum or traditional fats and oils, are not derived from fatty acids. Their chief advantages over soap are that they can be formulated at lower pH and that they perform well even in hard water. This was a more chemical alternative to washing soap (which was in either a solid, flake, or liquid form) and has been popular commodity ever since. Today, you can find it in a more natural and sustainable form of laundry detergent which we will discuss here.
What's in (Natural) Laundry Detergent?
Natural laundry detergents have only a few common ingredients. Its the combination, lack or use of these ingredients that makes each formulation unique.
Borax a.k.a Sodium Borate - a natural component that has an effectiveness often compared to OxiClean. It works by converting water molecules to hydrogen peroxide. It has a pH of 9.3 and produces a basic solution in water which increases the effectiveness of cleaners.
Baking Soda - a natural particle that dissolves while cleansing. It is a natural alkaline that neutralizes acids and washes away oils and dirt. It is great to use in soaps, bath salts, and skin scrubs.
Washing Soda a.k.a Sodium Carbonate - an excellent stain remover and sometimes used as a water softener. Often used in combination with sodium borate, also known as borax. It increases the effectiveness of laundry detergent and is also a cleaning agent.
Tip: A lot of commercial detergents will use softening agents in their products to soften clothes while washing by leaving a residue on the fabric. Natural Detergents have no such additive. Using White Vinegar in your load much like fabric softener will provide the softness but with out the harsh chemical component. Don't worry, the vinegar smell dissipates in the washing cycle (there is a possibility that the white vinegar may degrade the rubber components of the washer over time, so check your appliance's user guide and don't use it too frequently).
Soap - a surfactant used in conjunction with water for washing and cleaning. Can come in a solid or liquid form and is the base ingredient in detergents. You can make your own soap, or buy a popular brand name bar used in laundry like Fels-Naptha or Zote (If making a liquid detergent you can also use Dr. Bonner's Liquid Castile Soap)
Fragrance - an optional additive that makes the formulation as well as your clothes smell wonderfully.
All of these ingredients can be found on our sister websites, Wholesale Supplies Plus, MakeYourOwn.Buzz, Elements Bath and Body, Rustic Escentuals, and Just Scent.
As always, test any new formulation or ingredient before use to ensure it works as intended and make sure you are in compliance with all FDA regulations.
Recipes to try:
Green Laundry Care with Dr. Bronner’s
Costal Cottage Laundry Soap Recipe
Homemade Laundry Detergent with Essential Oils
- [Soap Nuts](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/soap-nuts-809910.md):What is a Soap Nut exactly?
Soap nuts are actually the dried shells (or husks) from the soapberry nut, which come from the Sapindus mukorossi tree—a unique species of trees found in both the eastern and western hemispheres, but native to the tropical conditions of India and Nepal. While called a nut, they're
actually classified as dried berries (or rather, the husks of berries) so those with nut allergies need not worry. Soap Nuts are 100% natural and biodegradable, making them an wonderful alternative to chemical detergents.
Tip: Saponin needs hot water in order to be activated. For cold water loads, simply stick the bag of soap nuts into a jar (mason or whatever you have on hand) of hot water, shake for a minute or so, and let them soak while you prepare your load. Once you're ready, simply tip the contents of the jar (nuts included) into the load to wash!
Benefits of using Soap Nuts
Gentle - Soap Nuts are a great option for those who have sensitive skin, eczema, or psoriasis. 
They are perfect for laundering baby clothes, cloth diapers, and delicate items, leaving no harsh chemical residue.
Versatile - Soap nuts can be used for all laundry types: hand-washed, commercial and standard machines, as well as HE washers. They are also safe for both septic and greywater systems. It can also be used for shampoo or body wash formulations as well. It can come in solid or powder form, and a liquid concentrate can be made from it.
Economical and Environmental Friendly - A little goes a long way with these! It costs significantly less to purchase and use soap nuts as a natural alternative to chemical detergents and there is no plastic waste associated with these. They are 100% natural and biodegradable.
Recipes:
Homemade Liquid Laundry Soap with Soap Nuts-Mountain Rose Herbs
1 cup Soap Nut Powder – Fine
½ Cup Sodium Carbonate
½ Cup Sodium Bicarbonate
(These ingredients can be found on Wholesale Supplies Plus and MakeYourOwn.Buzz)
Directions: (Wear a mask and Goggles for safety because the powders are fine and will become airborne)
The Results:
As always, test any new formulation or ingredient before use to ensure it works as intended and make sure you are in compliance with all FDA regulations.
- [Natural Dishwasher Detergent](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/natural-dishwasher-detergent-809911.md):
What is Dishwasher Detergent?
Like with Laundry Detergent, Dishwasher Detergent is a synthetic water-soluble or liquid organic preparation that is chemically different from soap but is able to emulsify oils, hold dirt in 
suspension, and act as wetting agents. It is used in either powder, tablet, pod or liquid form in automatic dish washing machines to clean and sanitize a household's dishes. Created in the early 20th century, this product has been a staple in all types of households for many generations.
What's in Natural Dishwasher Detergent?
Like all natural products, dishwasher detergents only has a few common ingredients.
Borax - disinfectant; a natural component that has an effectiveness often compared to OxiClean. It works by converting water molecules to hydrogen peroxide.
Salt -Many type of salt can be used (Sea Salt, Epsom, etc.) Gritty substance good for scouring grime and stuck on food from dishes.
Citric Acid - acidic ingredient to eliminate hard water spots and remove the film on dishes.
Washing Soda - Good for eliminating odor and cutting through grease.
White Vinegar - Rinsing Agent. Don't worry, the vinegar smell dissipates in the washing cycle (there is a possibility that the white vinegar may degrade the rubber components of the dishwasher over time, so check your appliance's user guide and don't use it too frequently).
Note: the success of your formula depends on water quality, or more specifically the hardness of the water. Each city (or well) has water that will react differently. Most people have hard water (even with city water or water softeners), which can be problematic for for some recipes. Hard water will cause cloudiness or a powdery residue to remain on clean dishes. You may have to adjust your formulation based on this.
All of these ingredients can be found on our sister websites, Wholesale Supplies Plus, MakeYourOwn.Buzz, Elements Bath and Body, Rustic Escentuals, and Just Scent.
As always, test any new formulation or ingredient before use to ensure it works as intended and make sure you are in compliance with all FDA regulations.
Recipes to try:
Homemade Dishwasher Detergent Recipe-DIY Natural
Homemade Dishwasher Tablets-Wholesale Supplies Plus
Green Living Recipes-MakeYourOwn.Buzz
What is a Bath Tea?
Bath teas are botanical based mixtures that you toss into the bathtub. The herbs hit the warm water to release natural oils, aromas and extracts. Since bath teas largely consist of dried herbs, they can leave a messy herbal residue and particles on the skin and bathtub if not properly
packaged. Just like beverage teas, tub teas are usually contained in cloth or a paper tea bag, or in a mesh tea ball, to minimize the mess. You may find this is a perfect way to recycle old stockings or single socks or cheese cloth or muslin squares that you can tie off into sachet type bundles for infusing.
What are some herbs I can put in my bath teas and their properties?
Many herbs have a long history of usage in certain ways and for certain conditions. Here are some herbs and their traditional uses:
Calendula: Bright yellow to dark orange flower. Thought to help with skin inflammation and a common ingredient in skin and hair care products.
Chamomile: White and yellow chamomile flowers are beautiful, mild and sweet-smelling, and the scent blends well with others. "Chamomile" is in fact named for its apple-like scent (Chamomile means "earth apple" or "ground apple" in Greek). Thought to help create a soothing and relaxing experience. Flower heads are usually dried and kept whole, not crushed, as the crushed herb is very fine and can make the bathwater "muddy".
Eucalyptus Leaf: Highly scented medicinal aroma. Thought to help create a relaxing experience for those experiencing head colds and muscle stress.
Jasmine: Jasmine is a common flower in Japan and China. Jasmine has a beautiful, relaxing scent. Thought to help create a balanced feeling.
Lavender: Lavender flowers are highly-scented tiny purple-blue buds. Lavender is the #1 scent thought to help create feelings of relaxation. Lavender's name is derived from the latin verb "to wash". It was valued by ancient Romans and Greeks for its fresh smell. Nonetheless, some people don't like it, and it's best used in moderation, as the scent is strong. Different varieties have somewhat different scents. So, finding the one you like most might require some experimentation.
Lemon Verbena: Actually a deciduous shrub, lemon verbena is a sweet lemon-scented herb. Thought to help create a refreshing and cleansing experience.
Mint: Scents range from peppermint and spearmint, to orange, apple, pineapple and chocolate mint. Thought to help create an invigorating and “feel good” bath experience. Try mixing with nettle for an awakening experience.
Nettle Leaf: A bath-type pick me up. Thought to help create an invigorating experience. Often used in hair products.
Oats: Ground oatmeal is thought to help create a wonderful skin softening experience. Many people find it to be especially helpful for soothing itchy skin.
Rose buds and petals: Thought to help create a soothing and romantic experience.
Can I add fragrance and essential oil to my bath tea?
Sure! Most of the herbs in your bath tea already contain aromatic components which will be released into the air when the bath tea is used. So, be careful not to add so much additional fragrance/essential oil that the scent is overwhelming when combined with the natural scent of the steeping herbs. Once you’ve determined the best amount of fragrance/essential oil to add, you can drizzle it lightly over the bath tea mixture, spread the mixture out on a baking sheet, and let it dry overnight before packaging.
- [Milk Baths](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/milk-baths-809905.md):
What is a Milk Bath?
A milk bath is a bath taken in milk instead of just water. Often other scents and essential oils are added as well as additives such as herbs, florals, and salts. Milk baths use lactic acid to dissolve the proteins which hold together dead skin cells. Milk Baths have many benefits, including moisturizing as well as exfoliating the skin.
Basic Ingredients
The main ingredient of course is Milk! In powdered form, it is an economical way of creating large batches which when stored properly can last for quite a while. This ingredient provides plenty of moisturizing properties as well as being a gentle exfoliate. Below you will find the many types of Milk Powder that can be used:
Other additives can be used as well to create your own unique milk bath formula. These ingredients include:
Bath Teas - Bath teas are premixed herb blends that you can purchase for your bath and body creations. You can add them to Milk Baths to provide visual variations of color and texture.
Herbs and bath teas hit the warm water and release natural oils and extracts.
Herbs and Botanicals - Herbs and botanicals are a great way to add visual variation to a Milk Bath. You can use any dry herb, but common ones include rose petals, chamomile, lavender and jasmine.
Colloidal Oatmeal - Oatmeal binds to the skin and creates a barrier that is thought to protect the skin. The hydrated granules of oatmeal adhere to the surface of the skin and provide a protective film attracting humidity and reducing friction. It has been used in Egypt since 2,000 BC for its beautifying effects. It is used for natural moisturizing properties and to alleviate itching.
Fragrance or Essential Oil - If you want your Milk Bath to have a scent, then you’ll need to add a fragrance oil or essential oil. You can add 1% essential oil or up to 2% fragrance oil. Double check IFRA guidelines to make sure you comply.
Baking Soda - Natural alkaline that neutralizes acids and washes away oils/dirt while leaving skin soft, silky & smooth. Dissolves in water.
Epsom Salts -Dissolved in a bath, Epsom Salt is absorbed through the skin to replenish the body's levels of magnesium. Researchers have found that magnesium increases energy by encouraging the production energy packets made in the cells. A great ingredient to use to help relax and soothe overworked muscles.
Salts -The various type of sea salts are full of minerals including magnesium, calcium, sodium, and potassium, all of which play a key role in our skin’s health, function, and cellular communication.
You can also find many of these ingredients on our sister sites: Elements Bath and Body & MakeYourOwn.Buzz
How to use
Using a Milk Bath recipe is so simple!
Recipes to try from all our sister sites:
Rose Bath Milk Tea
Sensual Black Rose Bath Milk Tea
Foaming Buttermilk Bath Milk
Floral Buttermilk Bath
- [Using Natural Fragrances and Essentials Oils on your Pet.](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/using-natural-fragrances-and-essentials-oils-on-your-pet-809912.md):
The use of essential oils has become increasingly widespread over the last few years. Though there is research suggesting there are benefits to using essential oils in our lives, it's not necessarily the same for our pets. 
For instance, our animals have a better sense of smell than we humans do. A dog's olfactory sense (sense of smell) is a 10,000x to 100,000x more keen than our own. The concentrated amounts considered safe for humans is not the same as it would be for our cats and dogs. Its best to do thorough research to ensure you are using the correct amount, as well as a safe essential oil.
There are only a few essential oils that are considered a possible safe option to use on our pets, and only used in small spare amounts via a carrier (whether it be an oil or product). These oils should never be applied directly in concentrated amounts to a pet's skin or via orally. They should also not be used on the very young, pregnant or lactating, or are immunocompromised (unless directed by your veterinarian). You should also check with your vet before any use to ensure that the essential oil is safe and does not contradict or clash with any medication your pet is currently taking.
Cedarwood
Clary Sage (dog-safe, not cat-safe)
Pets should also be kept away from areas where a diffuser is in active use; inhaling these essential oils can cause possible issues with the lungs as well as their noses and ability to smell.
The following essential oils are considered toxic and should be avoided. This is not by any means an exhaustive list, but a good start to understanding the use of essential oils with pets.
Poisonous to cats:
BergamotPoisonous to Dogs:
Pennyroyal oil (European and American)Ylang Ylang
If a pet is exposed to an unsafe essential oil whether it be over a short or long period of time, there are symptoms you should watch for. Symptoms of essential oil poisoning include:
If any symptoms appear, stop use immediately and contact your Vet. Keep the packaging in case the vet needs it.
For information regarding Pet safety and natural fragrances, please review the attached article below.
Consult with a Veterinarian before any use; this article is for educational purposes only.
Other links to more information regarding toxicity to animals:
- [Pet Friendly Recipes](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/pet-friendly-recipes-809913.md):
Pampering your pet can be as easy as pampering yourself! Below you will find some great recipes from some of our sister sites to create purrfect products for your furry friends!
Silicone molds are very easy to clean and can withstand very high temperatures, making them perfect for all kinds of MP (melt and pour) and CP (cold process) soap recipes. Silicone molds are sold as loaves, as column shapes, and as unique cavity molds.
Silicone loaf molds come in various sizes and can create a full loaf of soap. The loaf can then be sliced into bars. By using loaf molds, you can increase your production and create more consistent designs.
Video: Using Silicone Loaf Molds
Column molds create long, vertical loaves of soap, which allows soap makers to easily place and embed different shapes and designs. Column molds can be used to create either standalone bars or as embeds when used in conjunction with other loaf molds. These can be difficult to layer and work best with a single color or swirl.
Video: Using Column Loaf Molds
Silicone cavity molds allow for the creation of individual soaps in unique shapes. These molds are ideal for small batches, particularly when the temperature is very high. Silicone cavity molds are incredibly durable, unlikely to warp due to their high temperature tolerance, and very easy to remove soap from.
Video: Euro Round Silicone Soap Mold
Plastic molds are durable, inexpensive, easy-to use, and have tapered cavities for easier soap removal. These clear PVC molds allow for incredibly intricate designs that can only be matched by the work of a very skilled soap carver. Plastic molds are also appropriate for lotion bars, bath bombs, and bath fizzies.
Plastic molds typically have a maximum temperature tolerance of about 135-145°F and may warp at higher temperatures. It is important to monitor your pour temperature to preserve the integrity of the mold.
Video: Making Pinwheel Body Bombs
Metal molds are durable, solid, spherical molds that can last a lifetime with proper care. They can be cleaned, reused, and transported without fear of damaging the mold.
Video: Shark Week Bath Bombs Video
Question: How can I calculate how much cold process soap a mold will hold?
Answer: Since oils used to make cold process soap are lighter than water, we recommend using this formula to estimate the amount of cold process soap a mold will hold.
Mold Volume x .40 = Ounces Mold Holds
Problem: MP Soap is difficult to remove from plastic mold.
Solution:
1) Always fill the mold completely to the rim.
2) Place the soap in the freezer for 10-30 minutes.
3) Carefully heat the soap by running the back of the mold under warm water.
Problem: CP Soap is difficult to remove from plastic mold.
Solution:
1) Use a water discount to ensure a harder bar of soap. It is not recommended to discount any more than more than 1.5:1 as the concentration of lye to water can be too high and even leave undissolved lye.
2) Use hardening ingredients. 76º Coconut Oil or Palm Oil will help make for a harder bar of soap. A lower superfat creates a harder bar of soap. If you do not want to change your oils or butters, consider adding sodium lactate to your recipe. Our Best CP Soap Recipe for Plastic Molds is a great recipe to start testing with.
3) Freeze your mold of soap before unmolding.
Problem: Bath bomb is difficult to remove from the metal mold.
Solution: Add a few drops of LuxGlide N5 to the mold and swirl it around to create a very light coating before adding the bath bomb mixture. This measure should be taken with care -- too much coating and the bath bomb may be activated.
- [Do you have hair care recipes?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/do-you-have-hair-care-recipes-809915.md):
When you make your own hair care at home, you can tailor it to suit your exact needs. Whether you have issues with hair loss, dandruff, or other hair care needs, you can create the perfect recipe to fit the needs of your hair! Not only is important for your hair care recipes to use nourishing cosmetic oils, but your hair can benefit from the nourishing properties of herbs, too. Our herbs are perfect for creating herbal cosmetics for hair that provide the nutrients and moisture that your hair craves. So, you can find the best herbs for personal hair care needs in our cosmetic blog all about cosmetic herbs!
Nettle Leaf Powdered Herb
First, you can include a powdered herb like our Nettle Leaf Powder in your wholesale hair care recipes. This cosmetic ingredient includes a variety of nourishing properties that can benefit your hair. One benefit of the nettle leaf herb is that it can be used to promote new hair growth. The beneficial properties of nettle can provide your moisturized hair with lush and healthy growth. Not only will this nettle lead lead to an increase in hair growth, but this herb can be used to prevent hair loss, too. So, this cosmetic herb can be used to thicken your hair. So, adding this wholesale cosmetic herb can be used to create conditioner recipes that are perfect for great hair care recipes.
Aloe Vera Leaf Powdered Herb
One moisturizing herb that you can use to improve your hair care recipes is the Aloe Vera Leaf Powder. This wholesale herb powder will provide your hair care products with all kinds of benefits. First of all, this powdered herb is great for caring for dandruff problems. The enzymes in our aloe vera herb are perfect for nourishing the skin and preventing dead skin on the scalp. Further, this cosmetic herb can help to be used to balance the pH of your scalp to eliminate issues with a dry, itchy scalp. Additionally, this herb can be used to reduce redness, irritation, or inflammation.
Also, you can include this herb in conditioners to promote moisture and shine. Furthermore, this herb is perfect for helping to control frizzy hair, add luster, and provide a silky smooth feeling. This herb is great for oily hair without making your hair brittle. Also, this cosmetic herb can be beneficial for people who suffer from alopecia as this herb can help prevent hair loss. Regular use of products that use the aloe vera herb will help to rejuvenate the hair follicles and reduces hair loss.
Acerola Berry Powdered Herb
Another great cosmetic herb that you can use to create moisturizing hair care products is our Acerola Berry Powder. The vitamins and minerals in acerola berry are fantastic for hair care! First of all, this powdered herb will provide a gorgeous appearance that is both healthier and richer. Adding this herb to your hair care recipes will help you maintain shine. Further, this herb is useful for hydrating and revitalizing your hair. Additionally, the nutrients in this powdered herb can be useful for helping to prevent hair loss. Plus, this cosmetic herb can be used to care for color treated hair, as this herb can help your hair looking healthy without compromising your hair color. So, you can use this herb to nourish and properly care for your color treated hair.
Burdock Root Powdered Herb
Also, you can use our Burdock Root Powder to create some quality hair care recipes. This cosmetic herb can be used to nourish your hair all the way down to the roots. The burdock root herb is perfect for moisturizing and nourishing your scalp. First, this cosmetic herb is perfect for promoting new hair growth. The nutrients you can find in this herb will nourish your scalp and promote healthy hair growth. Additionally, this herb can be used to reduce issues with dandruff. This powdered herb can be used to condition a dry scalp, which will help to reduce flaking. So, this wholesale herb is a fantastic cosmetic ingredient to include homemade shampoo recipes and other wonderful hair care recipes for your scalp.
Noni Fruit Powdered Herb
Another fantastic cosmetic herb that you can use to improve your hair care recipes is our Noni Fruit Powder. This moisturizing herb can be used to provide you with beautiful hair. The cosmetic benefits of this herb will provide your hair with hair that is healthy and shiny. Additionally, this cosmetic herb can be useful for preventing hair loss. Furthermore, this herb can nourish your scalp and improve circulation, which will promote quick, healthy hair growth. In fact, this cosmetic herb has been recommended as one of the possible home remedies for hair growth and thickness for cancer patients after chemotherapy to help regrow their hair. Thus, this cosmetic ingredient is one of the many great herbs for hair growth and thickness.
Comfrey Root Powdered Herb
Also, adding Comfrey Root Powder to your homemade conditioner recipes can provide you with some great benefits. First of all, this cosmetic herb can be used to rejuvenate your hair. Comfrey leaf powder can be used to nourish and repair hair that has been over-processed or damaged. Also, this moisturizing hair care herb can be used to help to reduce and possibly reverse hair loss. Further, the vitamins and minerals in comfrey root can be used to increase the volume and shine of your hair. Not only is the comfrey leaf herb a great way to naturally nourish your hair, but you can use the beneficial properties of this herb to help fight dandruff. Due to these various beneficial properties, this cosmetic herb would be a perfect cosmetic ingredient for hair care products.
Alfalfa Leaf Powdered Herb
Another fantastic cosmetic herb that you can use to create homemade hair care is the Alfalfa Leaf Powder. This wholesale herb is perfect for nourishing both the scalp and hair. This powdered herb is rich with vitamins that are fantastic for healthy hair. So, this cosmetic herb can be used to promote healthy hair growth and help to prevent split ends of hair. Further, the nourishing properties of this cosmetic herb will encourage new hair growth. This alfalfa leaf powder promotes blood circulation of the scalp and nourishes the hair follicles. So, this alfalfa would be beneficial for treating those with hair loss and baldness. Thus, this is a fantastic cosmetic ingredient perfect for creating bath and body recipes that will support thicker and healthier hair growth.
Milk Thistle Seed Powdered Herb
Also, you can use another of our herbs to enhance your hair care recipes with moisturizing qualities. The Milk Thistle Seed Powder is a fantastic cosmetic herb that nourishes the hair. First, the milk thistle seed herb contains nourishing properties that will promote new hair growth. Further, this cosmetic herb can be used to moisturize and strengthen your hair. Not only does this cosmetic herb strengthen herb, but the nutrients in this herb protect the hair follicles from damage. So, this cosmetic herb can be used to help prevent hair loss. So, the nourishing properties of this herb are useful for preserving and rejuvenating your beautiful hair!
Kelp Powdered Herb
Additionally, you can use Kelp Powder to create great hair care recipes. This cosmetic ingredient is a fantastic wholesale herb that you can include in your hair care, like natural conditioner recipes. Kelp herb is perfect for providing special benefits to your hair care products. First, powdered kelp can be useful for rebuilding and strengthening the hair with nutrients. Also, the nourishing properties of this herb are useful for hydrating the hair. Further, this cosmetic herb can be used to promote healthy hair growth as the properties in the herb will nourish and moisturize the scalp. Also, this cosmetic herb has beneficial properties that will leave your hair as thicker and healthier. So, adding this wholesale herb to your various hair care recipes will provide you with conditioning recipes that will rejuvenate and condition your hair.
Slippery Elm Bark Powdered Herb
Also, you can use the lovely Slippery Elm Bark Powder to create fantastic hair care recipes. This wholesale powdered herb is perfect for creating conditioning hair care. Slippery elm is a moisturizing herb that will help control dry, dull, and damaged hair. So, this cosmetic ingredient will provide you with soft, silky hair. Further, the conditioning properties of this herb are useful for removing tangles from your hair. Plus, these nourishing properties are useful for promoting healthy hair growth. First, this cosmetic herb can be used to provide strong hair that is resistant to breaks. Plus, this cosmetic herb will provide your hair with even more gorgeous hair volume. Additionally, the nourishing properties in this herb will care for your scalp and prevent dandruff. So, you can include this herb in your recipes to both nourish and protect your hair.
Peppermint Leaf Powdered Herb
Another great cosmetic herb that you can include in your homemade hair care recipes is the Peppermint Leaf Powder. First, peppermint powder will soothe and condition the scalp to prevent dandruff. Also, this herb can be used to reduce excess oils and help prevent greasy hair. So, it's the perfect way for those with oily hair to keep it moisturized without being too oily. Further, peppermint leaf will promote blood circulation on the scalp and lead to an increase in hair growth. So, this is a great cosmetic herb to homemade shampoo as this herb promotes a healthy scalp.
Marshmallow Root Powdered Herb
Plus, you can use the Marshmallow Root Powder to create fantastic hair care recipes that will nourish your hair. First of all, the properties in this cosmetic herb can be used to condition and remove tangles in the hair. So, this cosmetic powder can be used to provide you with locks of hair that are soft, smooth, and silky. Not only does this herb help to moisturize your hair, but this herb can nourish and soothe your scalp, as well. By nourishing the scalp, marshmallow root will promote faster and healthier hair growth. Also, you can use the marshmallow root herb can be used to help reduce inflammation. Thus, this wholesale herb is wonderful for conditioning and moisturizing your luscious locks from the roots to the ends.
Developing Hair Care Routine
Not only is it important to nourish your hair with lovely cosmetic herbs, but our hair care routines are crucial for healthy hair, too. Many good hair care techniques are common knowledge, but there are some common myths related to hair care that just aren't true. You can learn more about common hair care myths from 6 Hair Care Myths You Need to Stop Believing from Allure. For instance, you can use techniques to prevent or remove split ends from your hair, but you can't repair split ends once they occur. Learning about the common myths many of us know can help you to develop a wonderful hair care routine that is sure to promote healthy hair growth.
- [What Oils can I use for hair care products?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-oils-can-i-use-for-hair-care-products-809916.md):When creating your own conditioning recipes, knowing the best oils for your hair type is extremely helpful! This article reviews the properties of luscious oils and the effects they have on hair. While many oils can be used for a few different types of hair, it's easier to formulate a recipe with an understanding of the properties of the oils. Depending on your hair type, you may need to adjust amounts and mix different oils. But, this basic review of cosmetic oils is a good place to start!
Best Oils For Your Hair Type: All Hair Types
Just as each hair type has different qualities, all oils have different properties. While there are oils that work best for specific hair types, some oils work well for everyone. There are other oils have more distinct qualities that only work for a few hair types. However, these more universal oils provide nutrients that every head of hair would need. So, these first few oils are the ones that everyone could include in their hair care easily. They provide deep moisturization, absorb fairly quickly, and any excess oil washes out easily. This means that you can get the perfect amount of moisture without heavy oils weighing down your hair.
Coconut Oil
Coconut Oil is a perfect cosmetic oil for all types of hair. This oil is very similar to our own natural oils, so even greasy hair can benefit from using a bit of this oil. Adding coconut oil to your hair care will help to replenish your strand's essential nutrients and keep your natural oil production at a healthy level. Plus, this cosmetic oil is packed full of essential nutrients that will strengthen strands and promote hair growth.
Jojoba Oil
Since Jojoba Oil is similar in content to your natural hair oils, this is a perfect addition to any conditioning recipe. Due to this oil's similarity, it won't disturb your balance of oils. This means that this oil would make a nice addition to products for any hair type. Plus, this cosmetic oil contains nutrients that will leave your hair feeling soft and shiny. Further, this oil is very soothing to the scalp and could help reduce dandruff.
Vitamin E Oil
A bit of Vitamin E Oil in any hair care product is beneficial. This oil is a thick, rich oil that wonderfully nourishes the hair. This cosmetic oil makes a wonderful addition to hair care products as an added supplement that will nourish and care for your hair.
Best Oils For Your Hair Type Oily Hair
We all need conditioner, but you may need a little less. This excess of natural oils has you never wanting to add more oils. You don't want to neglect your ends, but your scalp seems to have all of your moisturization covered. Trying to figure out a perfect routine for your greasy hair can become frustrating. Every head of hair is different, so there is experimenting involved to finding your own regime. But, we'd like to share some oils that would work best for those with an oily hair type. This way you can create a conditioner that works for you and keeps your ends moisturized, without becoming too oily at the scalp.
Grapeseed Oil
Grapeseed Oil is a light, moisturizing cosmetic oil that will get your hair shiny without feeling greasy. This oil will absorb fairly quickly to provide your hair with needed proteins and minerals. So, you won't be left with heavy oils weighing down your hair.
Sunflower Oil
Also, Sunflower Oil is a great choice for those with oily locks. While this oil contains nutrients that are important for healthy hair, this cosmetic oil is light and perfect for this hair type. This oil is light, easily absorbed. This means that the oils won't cling to your hair and add to your natural oils. Plus, Sunflower Oil penetrates deep into each individual strand to ensure that all your hair has been taken care of.
Argan Oil
Next, we have an oil that those with oily hair are going to love. Argan Oil is an ultralight oil that won't leave your hair greasy. However, this doesn't mean that this oil isn't perfect for moisturizing your ends. This oil is perfect for hydrating, as the oil sinks in quickly and easily. This oil is able to penetrate deep into the hair to repair any damage. So, you can get the right level of moisture and shine exactly where you need it.
Best Oils For Your Hair Type Frizzy or Dry Hair
If you have dry, frizzy, or damaged hair, then you are going to need some powerful moisturizing power. Not only do you want to use nourishing conditioner, but a hair mask from time to time may be necessary. So, you may need some thicker and oils with more a more protective quality in your own hair care products.
Macadamia Nut Oil
Dry and frizzy hair can benefit from using Macadamia Nut Oil. This oil is perfect for the most dried out and damaged hair. Nut based oils tend to be more nourishing and this specific nut based oil is one of the richest. Since this oil is very moisturizing, you could potentially overuse this oil. It is best to use as a deep conditioning hair mask every so often. Depending on the level of dryness or heat damage that you experience would determine how much you need. This luxurious oil could work perfectly in hair mask recipes used on a weekly or biweekly basis.
Meadowfoam Seed Oil
This oil is great for dry or damaged hair. Both shine and moisture are added to your hair due to the oil. Not only does Meadowfoam Seed Oil lock in the moisture, but it is known to have some UV light protection against sun damage. So, this oil will be perfect for protecting your dry, damaged hair.
Lanolin Oil
If your hair has become unbearably dry, then you may want to try out Lanolin in your homemade conditioner. This ingredient is thick, but it sure does moisturize! This oil will lock in moisture and add extra protection. Also, this oil will likely be better suited for someone with thicker or even curly hair, too. It could be too greasy for some with thinner hair. But, this oil is sure to be perfect for deep, heavy moisturizing that will solve dry hair issues.
Best Oils For Your Hair Type Curly Hair
Curly hair is gorgeous, we just need to know how to care for it! Curly hair is a bit tricky because it is difficult for your natural oils to protect your hair as it grows. This leaves you with hair that is naturally dry. Further, it is nearly impossible to brush your natural oils down to where you need them. So, you are definitely in need some deep conditioning oils that will protect your hair. This means any of your hair care products should contain at least a few oils that will last and protect!
Castor Oil
Castor Oil is a thicker cosmetic oil that is nice for making products for curly hair. While this oil is a bit more difficult to wash out after using, this amazing oil has the nourishment that curly hair craves. First, this oil is exceptional at drawing moisture into your hair and retaining your natural moisture, as well. So, your luscious locks will be left shiny, moisturized, and soft after a few uses! Further, castor oil will coat and protect your hair from the friction damage that comes from brushing or washing your hair. Ultimately, this oil can sometimes help reduce frizz, split ends, and add some shine.
Avocado Oil
Another great oil for moisturizing your curly hair is Avocado Oil. This lovely oil will nourish and strengthen your hair. Since curly hair needs deep moisturization, this oil is perfect! Avocado Oil will sink in and moisturize from root to tip. Furthermore, this oil can help repair damage and strengthen your strands. Plus, this oil is perfect for taming frizz, detangling, and adding shine!
Best Oils For Your Hair Type Thick Hair
Everyone thinks that thick hair must be a dream come true, but there are a few things you still need to worry about. While full hair is pretty great for creating gorgeous hairdos, it is a lot to manage! It takes forever to blow dry, brush, and fix. Plus, it can be difficult for moisture to get all the way down into thick hair. So, here are some oils that work well specifically for thicker hair.
Olive Oil
Olive oil is a rich ingredient that is packed full of nourishment for your hair. This oil is a deeply moisturizing oil that is full of vitamins and antioxidants. These nutrients help seal in moisture and protect your hair. This oil is not only great for moisturizing, but this oil is perfect for thick hair. As you work Olive Oil into your luscious locks, the oil will begin to nourish your hair. Plus, this hair type is better able to handle this thicker, more moisturizing oil.
Avocado Oil
Also, Avocado Oil is a great oil that could be helpful for thicker hair. This oil is full of vitamins, antioxidants, minerals, fatty acids, and biotin, which are amazing for hair care. This oil will perfectly moisturize without the downfall of leaving stiff residue on the hair. Plus, this oil is a perfect detangler, as it is naturally lubricating without making hair too greasy. So, this a great oil to help better manage all that glorious hair!
Best Oils For Your Hair Type Fine Hair
Whether you have thick or thin hair, you could have fine hair. Fine hair actually refers to the thickness of individual strands. This results in fine hair strands, hair that is fragile and is more susceptible to breakage. Plus, fine hair requires lighter oils for conditioning, as heavy oils will noticeably weigh down the hair. While you don't want that to happen, it is important to still provide your hair with moisture. So, you need to know what oils would work best in your customized shampoo and conditioner recipes.
Grapeseed Oil
We're back again with the Grapeseed Oil! Not only is this a good hair for oily hair, but this oil will help strengthen your hair! This oil contains essential nutrients that your strands can really benefit from! Adding this cosmetic oil to your hair care products will promote hair growth and strength that is perfect for fine strands as well. After this oil is absorbed by your hair, the oil fortifies and strengthens your strands. This will prevent split ends and breaking, as well as reduce thinning hair and frizz.
Safflower Oil
Another great oil for fine hair is Safflower Oil. Safflower oil is perfect for hair growth and strengthening hair. This oil supplements the protein in your individual strands to provide extra strength that your hair needs. Since fine hair has thinner strands and is more prone to breakage, this oil is perfect for managing your hair! Also, this oil is especially great if you are trying to grow your hair out longer.
Best Oils For Your Hair Type Thin Hair
While everyone seems to want thicker hair, there are some perks to having thinner hair. It's easier to control and takes less time to manage. So, your hair may not require deep, revitalizing conditioning, your hair still needs the care of nourish oils. Whether the oils that you choose are great for adding volume, moisture, or nutrients, these oils are light and perfect for thinner hair types.
Sweet Almond Oil
Your hair is going to need an oil that is light and absorbs easily. So, Sweet Almond Oil is the perfect oil! While this oil is full of moisturizing power, this oil will not leave your hair feeling weighed down. This oil will absorb quickly into the hair so that it gets the nourishment it requires. However, this oil won't leave behind a heavy coating on the surface of your strands. You can strengthen your individual strands without getting too oily.
Sesame Seed Oil
Also, Sesame Seed Oil Is a perfect oil for thin hair types. This oil is non greasy and perfect for moisturizing. This oil prevents moisture loss as it conditions and leaves a soft shine to your hair. Further, this cosmetic oil is great for adding fullness and volume to both fine or thin hair types. So, this is a perfect way to moisturize and add body to your hair.
Best Oils For Your Hair Type Additional Hair Qualities to Consider
In addition to the different qualities that hair can have, there are various issues that could need attention. These oils have been shown to be useful for reducing some kind of issue that is common with hair. If you are experiencing hair loss, dandruff, or premature graying, then some of these oils below may be perfect for you!
Best Oils For Your Hair Type Dandruff Prone Hair
A dry scalp is really a pain. Not only do you have to worry about flecks in your hair, but this dry skin can end up on clothes, too. Talk about ruining a nice occasion. But, you aren't trapped and there is a solution! There are many moisturizing oils that are perfect for fighting dandruff. So, here are a couple great choices for your hair care.
Safflower Oil
Safflower Oil is great for improving hair growth. This oil contains rich ingredients, like oleic acid and Vitamin E, that are perfect for the scalp. Applying this oil to your scalp will provide the moisture your skin needs. This will create healthier skin on your scalp and reduce dandruff. Plus, this oil isn't very heavy and will be easy to incorporate into hair products for all hair types.
Olive Oil
Olive Oil is another oil that is great for moisturizing the scalp. This cosmetic oil is full of healthy, fatty acids that will both enrich and protect your hair. Plus, the vitamins that this oil contains help deal with bald patches and banish dandruff. However, realize that this oil is thick and is better suited for thicker hair. Otherwise, this oil may weigh your hair down too much.
Best Oils For Your Hair Type Hair Loss
It can be easy to get hair pulled out from time to time, especially with longer hair. But sometimes, you may feel like you are just losing too much. On the other hand, you could have an underlying skin issue that could be causing hair loss. So, we have a few different oils that have shown to either reduce hair loss, strengthen hair, or promote faster growth.
Pumpkin Seed Oil
This oil has been known to be great for reducing hair loss. This oil adds essential nutrients that are important for the production of hair. These nutrients, especially zinc and magnesium, can help to not only thicken your hair but to speed up growth, too.
Apricot Kernel Oil
Apricot Kernel Oil is a perfect oil for promoting hair growth. This oil promotes hair growth by moisturizing the scalp, lubricating the hair follicles, and preventing moisture loss. So, this oil controls the moisture level and promotes hair growth.
Castor Oil
Also, Castor Oil is wonderful for preventing hair loss for a few reasons. First, this oil is beneficial for those with folliculitis and scalp infections, as this oil has antibacterial and antifungal properties. Plus, this cosmetic oil has properties that increase circulation and replenish natural oils to promote hair growth. Also, this oil will help support and strengthen your hair.
Best Oils For Your Hair Type Premature Graying
Nobody is excited for their hair to go gray. While this process will naturally happen as a person gets older, you'd definitely like to stop it from happening right now! So, we have found a few oils that have been known to slow or reduce the appearance of graying hair. While this won't alter the natural process of hair as you age, these oils can be used to help reduce premature graying!
Rice Bran Oil
The antioxidants and high Vitamin E content in Rice Bran Oil are very beneficial to the hair. This cosmetic oil acts as an anti-aging product for your skin. While this oil won't dye previously existing gray hair, this oil will help prevent premature graying of hair before it happens. Thus, this oil replenishes essential nutrients in your hair.
Sesame Seed Oil
Also, Sesame Seed Oil can be used to help retain your natural color for longer. By massaging this oil into your scalp you will be adding this oil's natural properties to the base of your hair. This will slow graying by darkening your hair and helping it to remain healthy.
- [What Can I Use to Flavor Lip Balm?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-can-i-use-to-flavor-lip-balm-809917.md):A common question to come up when creating a lip balm recipe is "What can I use to flavor lip balm?" There are so many choices that sometimes it is hard to decide! You can go with scrumptious flavoring oils, essential oils, or certain foods. It all depends on what you are trying to make. Some people prefer to go the simple, natural route with specific food ingredients or essential oils. Other people like to go with the yummy and complex flavorings. No matter what your style is we have some options for you!
What Can I Use to Flavor Lip Balm: Flavor Oils
We have our flavoring oils! These are all of the flavorings that we had formulated specifically for lip balm. So, check out our flavor oils and find your favorite.
Can I use essential oils to flavor my lip balms?
Yes you can!
What Can I Use to Flavor Lip Balm: Lavender Essential Oil. This lovely essential oil has a sweet, fruity aroma that is absolutely scrumptious. Plus, the IFRA sheet says that you can include up to 5% of this ingredient in your lip balm recipes.
What Can I Use to Flavor Lip Balm: Peppermint Essential Oil
Another idea for flavoring is the cool and refreshing Peppermint Essential Oil. This delightful oil is perfect for adding some mint freshness to your lip care products. If you are interested in using this flavor oil, then you may want to know that IFRA states that a maximum of 5% can be used for your lip products.
If you want to find more Essential Oils that you can use, then check out the Essential Oils page on our website! You can find out which are body safe and their usage rate there!
How to Sweeten Your Lip Balm
While flavoring oils are amazing, sometimes you just want to add a bit of extra sweetness. Not only can these sweeteners be added to enhance your flavoring oil, but these sweeteners can be used to naturally flavor lip balm all on its own! It's all up to your and what you want from your lip balm.
What Can I Use to Flavor Lip Balm: Stevia
Stevia, which is a natural sweetener extracted from the Stevia plant of the Asteraceae family. This sweetener is often used as a cane sugar substitute because it is thought to have no calories and taste even sweeter than sugar. This added sweetness is especially useful for lip balm because we can get a sweet flavor without adding enough to be considered a lip scrub. While scrubs can be useful, you don't want every lip balm to be gritty. Stevia is used to sweeten the lip balm. This sweetness also enhances the flavor of the lip balm.
What Can I Use to Flavor Lip Balm: Honey
Also, you can use a natural sweetener like honey. Not only will adding this ingredient sweeten your lip balm, but it has benefits for your lips as well. Honey is known for helping lock in moisture and protect your skin and lips. Plus, it can be used to help brighten your lips or even make them look bigger and more plump.
What Can I Use to Flavor Lip Balm: Dark Chocolate Wafers
Another perfect additive for lip balm is chocolate. What could be better than the rich taste of dark chocolate in your homemade lip balm recipes? Absolutely nothing! Chocolate is delicious and perfect for anyone that wants to naturally flavor lip balm. Adding some Dark Chocolate Wafers to your recipe will provide a fantastic taste and help keep your lips feeling soft.
History of Lip Balm
Lip balm is essential for keeping your lips moisturized and healthy, but it wasn't always around. In fact, it was invented in the early 1880s by Dr. C.D. Fleet. But, this lip balm looked more like a wickless candle then what we see today. Further, flavored Chapstick wasn't even an option until 1971! If you want to learn more about the history of lip balm or are curious about the history of Carmex, then check out The History of Chapstick - The History of Carmex by ThoughtCo.
Talk to Us
We hope that you have a better idea of ingredients for you lip balm recipes. Whether you added these flavoring options to your recipes or created one of ours, we're sure you will enjoy the finished product. If you have any questions or want to share your lip balm making experience, then feel free to reach out to us. An easy way to find us is on social media. We have a Facebook page and an Instagram account. Hope to hear from you soon!
- [What are Cosmetic Waxes?](https://help.theflamingcandle.com/en-US/what-are-cosmetic-waxes-809919.md):Simply, cosmetic waxes are wholesale natural cosmetic ingredients that you can use to create fantastic bath and body recipes. However, there are a few different options with slightly different properties. Adding any of these cosmetic ingredients to your homemade bath and body recipes will provide your products with some great properties. These cosmetic waxes are useful for improving the consistency and integrity of your products. Often, our customers will use these ingredients to harden a more solid recipe or thicken a lotion recipe. While these particular waxes aren't able to emulsify, they can be useful for supporting the emulsifier in holding everything together. However, we will briefly talk about emulsifying waxes later in this article.
Using cosmetic waxes can really improve the quality of your products, especially for lip balm recipes or lotion recipes. If you are interested in using some of these cosmetic ingredients, then we have a variety of our own formulated cosmetic recipes that you can create with these quality waxes. Of course, you can use our cosmetic waxes in your own recipes as well.
Rice Bran Wax
One cosmetic wax that you can use in your homemade cosmetic recipes is our Rice Bran Wax. This wonderful ingredient is a pale yellow colored wax that is extracted from rice bran oil. This waxy substance is naturally rendered through batch chromatography technology to achieve the light yellow color. So, you will find that this product is a superior quality compared to others that are solvent extracted. Further, this light color is useful to allow you prevent discoloration in your products.
You can use this cosmetic wax to add some integrity to your various bath and body recipes. Plus, this wholesale wax has a lovely, non-sticky feeling that you will enjoy in your various cosmetic products wholesale. You can use this cosmetic wax to create all kinds of recipes, like lipstick, lip balm, make up, mascara, or even sun care products. Plus, this bath and body ingredient is often used in oil based products or in emulsions. Although the wax is not able to emulsify your recipe, it has shown to be useful for helping to stabilize your emulsions.
Using Rice Bran Wax
While you can use this natural wax to create room scenting recipes, there are many cosmetic uses for this bath and body ingredient, too. One way that you can use this wholesale cosmetic wax is to create our Lip Balm Recipe Without Beeswax recipe. Adding this recipe to your lip care recipe is perfect for creating a lip balm that is moisturizing yet sturdy. So, your lip balm products with this wax will have a fantastic glide and be able to retain its integrity.
Sunflower Wax
The next wholesale cosmetic wax can be created by removing the wax from sunflower oil. This wonderful wax, Sunflower Wax, can be used to create all kinds of bath and body recipes, like lip stick, mascara, lip balms, and other cosmetics. Our wholesale wax is a granulated solid that has a light color and a low odor. You can add this lovely wholesale wax to your bath and body products to regulate the consistency of lip balms and add some integrity to your bath and body recipes. Plus, this cosmetic wax can be useful for improving the texture and glide of the final product. However, this isn't the only way that you can use this cosmetic ingredient. Since this wax has a high melting point, you can add these granulated wax crystals to your recipes whole to create a natural exfoliant.
Using Sunflower Wax
One cosmetic recipe that you can create with Sunflower Wax is the delicious Mango Madness Lip Balm Recipe. This smooth, nourishing lip balm recipe uses lip loving oils and butters that will protect your lips. Further, the cosmetic wax is included to make sure the lip balm remains stable and not too soft. Not only does this wax help your lip care products maintain integrity, but it can be useful for making it easier to use the lip balm tubes, as some recipes may stick to the tube.
Candelilla Wax
Next, we have a wonderful wax for your homemade creations, which is Candelilla Wax. This cosmetic ingredient is extracted from the candelilla shrub, which is most commonly found in Mexico, North Central Plateau, and Southeastern Texas. These plant extracts are boiled until the wax separates from the rest of the plant material. This is possible because water based and oil based materials will separate from one another. Then, the wax is skimmed away from the rest of the plant material. After, this collected wax will be filtered and bleached until it reaches a pale yellow color.
This wax is another create choice that you can use in your homemade bath and body recipes. The cosmetic wax will provide your products with more of a glossy appearance and is water repellent, which can keep moisture from escaping your lips and skin. Also, this cosmetic ingredient is useful for helping provide a firm, or thick consistency, with a higher melt point. So, you can use this fantastic cosmetic ingredient to create sun screen, lip stick, lip gloss, emulsions, and lubricants
Using Candelilla Wax
You can use cosmetics supplies, like the Candelilla wax, to create various cosmetic recipes, like our lovely Green Apple Lip Balm Recipe. Further, this wax is often a perfect substitute for beeswax in lip care recipes. So, anyone avoiding animal products may enjoy the Vegan Lip Butter Recipe as well as the Vegan Silky Lip Balm Recipe. Both of these lip balm recipes are just as good as those that include beeswax, but they use plant based sources instead of bees wax.
Beeswax White Pastilles
Plus, you can use Beeswax White Pastilles to create some fantastic bath and body wholesale recipes. This cosmetic wax is created by bees and beekeepers can harvest some of the wax from the bee hives. This natural wax can range in color from a clear- white color to a light golden yellow or even brown color. However, our white beeswax pastilles are purified and naturally bleached by the sun. So, you won't find any color variation. Although our product is bleached, we didn't use chemicals, as the wax was exposed to air and sunlight for a period of time to provide the desired effect.
This wholesale wax can be used to make all kinds of cosmetic recipes, whether it be homemade candles or natural cosmetics. The beeswax wholesale is a well loved additive to many bath and body recipes. Also, beeswax can help to protect and soften the skin. Further, this cosmetic wax is often included in lip care products, as it can promote healing and help prevent you from getting chapped lips! So, there is a lot of benefits for adding bees wax to your bath and body recipes. If you want to learn more about bees wax is used and naturally made, then check out our Beeswax Class!
Using Beeswax White Pastilles
There are all sorts of bath and body recipes that have beeswax included. This cosmetic wax is a quality ingredient that is perfect for adding some structure of thickness to a recipe. First, we included this cosmetic recipe in the Pink Lemonade Scrub Recipe. Also, you can make beeswax body lotion that is very skin loving, like the Rejuvenating Foot Balm Recipe. Further, this cosmetic ingredient is used to create the scrumptious Chocolate Covered Strawberries Lip Balm Recipe, and the lovely Kahlua and Cream Lip Balm Recipe, as it strengthens the lip balm and makes it easier to use. If you want to check out even more of the many bath and body recipes that use beeswax, then check the recipe tab on the Beeswax White Pastilles page!
100% Soy Wax
Lastly, you can use 100% Soy Wax to create some fantastic cosmetic recipes. Our soy wax flakes are pure soy wax that are extracted naturally from the plant. This wonderful wholesale ingredient can be used cosmetically or to create quality homemade candles. If you want to use this all natural soy wax to create cosmetic recipes, then there are many options for what you can create. This kosher soy wax is perfect for making lip balms, lotions, and all kinds of other cosmetic recipes. In fact, you can even create your very own soy wax massage candles.
Using 100% Soy Wax
Although this cosmetic wax can be used with your candle making supplies, soy wax can be used to create various bath and body recipes, too. In fact, you can make 100 soy wax candles that are safe enough to use on the skin. So, one recipe that we have formulated with this cosmetic ingredient is the Massage Candle Recipe. Plus, you can use a scented soy wax to create skin loving, homemade lotion recipes. Also, you can use lip balm flavorings to create lip care products that are great for the skin and taste scrumptious.
Although you can use our pure soy wax to create cosmetic recipes, it is our recommendation that you only use pure soy wax to create body safe cosmetic recipes. The additives or preservatives in other soy waxes may not be body safe, so we suggest sticking with the pure soy wax that is guaranteed to just be soy wax without any random additives.
Emulsifying Waxes for Cosmetics
Another great cosmetic wax that you can use to create fantastic recipes is emulsifying wax. This ingredient is crucial for recipes that use both oil and water based ingredients. Otherwise, your ingredients will separate overtime. So, you will want to include this ingredient in recipes, like homemade lotions, conditioners, and scrubs. We have a few different types of emulsifying wax that you can use to homogenize your products, which are BTMS 25 Emulsifier, Traditional Emulsifying Wax NF, and Silky Emulsifying Wax. If you want to learn a bit more about the qualities of these different waxes and a few other options, then be sure to check out our Types of Emulsifying Wax blog. This is a perfect blog to learn about the different options for emulsifying wax to create perfectly tailored recipes.
Different Beeswax Uses in the Home
Of course, cosmetic waxes, like our Beeswax White Pastilles, can be useful for creating amazing bath and body recipes. However, there are even more creative uses that you can take advantage of to help in daily life. One specific cosmetic wax that people have found many uses for is beeswax. You can use this cosmetic wax to create a variety diy solutions, like homemade crayons, diy cling wrap, itch relief, and so much more.
Reach Out to Us
We hope that you learned a bit about our various cosmetic waxes that you can use to make amazing bath and body products. Anyone that has more questions about these cosmetic making supplies, should feel free to reach out to us with any questions. You can talk to us in the store, on the phone, or on our social media pages. You can reach out to us on our Facebook and Instagram. Further, you can use this platform to share your own favorite creations that include any of these cosmetic waxes. We hope to hear from you soon!
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